Late-May Rainier Conditions

[ebkolb]

Hello!

 

I've enjoyed lurking on here for a while, but finally have a reason to post.

 

I'm heading up the Liberty Ridge on Rainier the last week of May (guided) and am trying to get my gear list in order. I know what gear of mine I use in different conditions, but I'm having a hard time pinning down what the potential conditions could be. I want to be prepared, but as light as possible.

 

Specifically, what are the likely (and potential) day and night temps?

 

I'm trying to figure out boots, sleeping bag, and layers. I have LS Baturas, but am considering getting Baruntses or a similar 6000m type boot. For sleeping bags, I have a 20* WM bag, but sleep warm and am used to wearing layers in the bag.

 

Also, any suggestions of axes? I'm thinking a Petzl Sum-Tec (need to get) and a Nomic (have). Is the Nomic too much?

 

Thanks in advance!

[Eric K]

The nomic may be a bit much. Depending on the year only a little bit of actual ice needs to be climbed. Sumtec plus standard ax would work well. I think a large sum tec and light tool like aztarx or quark is real good. What weights of boots and bag you use will be determined by the weather. I did it in pretty bad weather in June with silver trangos and 40 deg. bag and I was fine. Ask your guide he/she should know what's best.

 

Eric

[ScaredSilly]

Weather will be anything ... from sun to horizontal piss. Plan for it as that will dictate boots, bags, etc.

 

Nomic ... useless. You want something to cane with as well as plunge. You will make faster progress with an axe and ski pole.

[JasonG]

You'd be better served searching the TRs in the database to see the variation in weather/conditions, and waiting to pack when you have an idea of the forecast.. And, if you want enjoyment, wait for the perfect forecast.

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/tripreports/

 

Location: Rainier

Route: Liberty Ridge

 

 

[Alex]

all this said, if the current drought continues late-May will be too late this year, so best post this kind of question here about a week before u go

[CascadeClimber]

all this said, if the current drought continues late-May will be too late this year, so best post this kind of question here about a week before u go

 

I was wondering earlier today if the Carbon is passable right now.

[CaleHoopes]

So, last year I equipped up for a guided climb of Lib Ridge and I have some suggestions for you. First, Jason's comment is excellent. Look at the forecast before you bring your double boots. With the forecast we had I was bringing my Phantom Guides over my Baruntse's. If it was going to be colder, the Baruntse's were the deal. 20 degree bag is perfect for Lib Ridge and if it gets cold, wear layers. Since you're doing a carry over, throw out the crap that you don't need (your guides probably will). With EVERYTHING I was down to 38 lbs leaving the white river trailhead. That included a glacier rope and all my climbing gear. Pack got considerably lighter when we dropped off of St. Elmos. You will wear most of your climbing gear from there to the Summit so don't get overly stressed about the weight of that stuff - you'll only be carrying it up Glacier Basin to St. Elmos and then you'll likely rope up.

 

I'm doing it again this year (we got washed out, literally at the base of the ridge) so it's my "big trip" I'm training for, etc.

[ebkolb]

Awesome comments, thanks so much! The TR section was very helpful, and I see how it really is a "wait and see what the conditions are" type of thing.

 

As far as axes, SumTec it is, and something light to go with it.

 

Thanks again!

 

 

[Jake_Gano]

What's everyone carrying for a rope on LR. I'm flying down this summer to do it with a friend. Should I use my old chopped-down half rope (8.5 by about 30m) or pony up the $ for a new 9.skinny by 60m single? How much actual belayed climbing do most parties do?

[CascadeClimber]

Rainier and its weather and conditions are not static, or consistent year to year. Like others said, it can be hot and sunny in May, and it can be blizzard-like mid-Winter conditions. The route can be 3000' of kicked-in steps, or 3000' of alpine ice.

 

What people wear and how they climb depends on those things and their skills. It's been soloed and skied, and I've watched teams pitch out the entire thing.

[ScaredSilly]

What's everyone carrying for a rope on LR. I'm flying down this summer to do it with a friend. Should I use my old chopped-down half rope (8.5 by about 30m) or pony up the $ for a new 9.skinny by 60m single? How much actual belayed climbing do most parties do?

 

30m would work though if you toss gear in and simul climb you will need to pass gear a bit more often.