Ice in Leavenworth!

[ChrisFreye]

Due to the cold snap ice is forming up in Leavenworth. Personally, I climbed Hubba Hubba on Thursday and the bottom part was pretty wet and thin but above that it was solid ice but thin in places. Just came back from Leavenworth today (12/7) and was on Rainbow Falls right. We ended up TRing it because the ice looked questionable in places to lead but I can say all of it would go on lead with solid protection except for the very top having climbed it now. Catch in early in the morning or it will fall apart on you. The top was overhanging, and a bit thin, and well I don't lead that hard of ice.... Also Drury falls looks excellent but I havent seen it up close; just from the road.

[Devin27]

Another update to this (Will post some photos and such later). We also top roped rainbow falls all day Sunday and it was great. We rapped down from the tree above to reach the bolts anchors and also set a rope down on the left side of the wall next to the falls which had some thin but fun ice on it. A few climbers were top roping the tall chandeliers in the corner, but they had to dry tool the top because the ice was too fragile, might need to give that a while more.

[Sol]

Drury has been climbed a number of times this week and reportedly has had the best conditions in many years with the local ice-monkeys calling it a casual romp. Starting to warm up in town here prolly just a couple days left to get some. Me, well, ive been making sweet love to my hangboard.

[Blake]

Drury Beta:

 

We headed up last monday, on a sunny day. We intentionally left late (started up from the river at 10AM) to avoid the AM sun. There was still a major collapse or two on the (unclimbed?) line left of Drury, which put some debris a little too close for comfort to a couple friends who were ahead of us in the approach. Take care and be speedy on the terrain before the route, even if avy conditions are low.

 

Drury Falls was climbed by at least 2 teams of 3 in the past week. A couple short WI4 bits (maybe just harder WI3?) but overall mostly just fat and featured WI3 with wicked exposure. We topped out in the dark, and figure with our short days that others might as well, so here is the spraydown for those willing to forgo on-sighting the descent.

 

After a few very short mellow gully steps, there are:

 

2 separate ~55m approach pitches (WI3) which leave the gully

 

3-4 pitches (~175m) on the main falls, with the crux probably on the last pitch.

 

Descent Beta:

 

 

1 -Walk up and left from the top out for ~30m to a LARGE slung tree. Make a 45m rappel (overhung at first) from a tree with much cordage.

 

2 - Walk hard skier's left on a narrow sidewalk back toward the falls to a tree with a new piece of orange/brown cord. 31m rappel to a treed ledge halfway up the route.

 

3 - From the small snag next to a HUGE fir, rappel 45m to a pin/choss block anchor on the left edge of the ice.

 

4 - 30m rappel to the base of the main falls

 

5 - short rappel from red webbing tree down EASY slabs skier's right from the main falls

 

6/7 - second ice step via 2 rapps off trees skier's right

 

8 - first ice step via v-thread above pitch

 

Then a few short (one rope needed) raps exist in the gully.

[bigeo]

Appreciate the beta. Where did you cross the river?

[Alex]

They crossed Lake Jolanda, downstream of the drainage, in a non-inflatable boat. I highly *highly* recommend this approach (from experience, ppl!!) to the other more traditional crossing spots further upstream. I also highly recommend you wear a PFD and helmet, regardless of what crossing you do.

 

While crossing at Lake Jolanda adds hours to your day, right now there is not much snow so travel is as fast as it ever will be, and it adds a safety factor to the crossing that, compounded with the low av hazard in the drainage *this week* makes for one of the safest ways to approach and climb Drury. You know you will be heading back across in the dark, might as well make it the least stressful deproach possible!

 

 

[bigeo]

Thanks Alex. What do you think the current warmup does to prospects for climbing Drury tomorrow?

[Doug_Hutchinson]

Thanks Alex. What do you think the current warmup does to prospects for climbing Drury tomorrow?

 

I think I can answer this one because we climbed it today. The route was still decent today but is quickly reverting to its typical slush cone native state. The second and last pitches were shower stalls and many holes were opened by afternoon which were not this morning.

 

It will be climbable for a few more days but bring Gtex and Vinyl Love gloves.

 

Today, was the first time I crossed at Lake Jolanda, way easier boating but adds an hour each way.

[bigeo]

That's frustrating. Rubber boat is packed in the van, gear assembled, stoke was high, but after waiting for 30+ years to climb Drury, I guess I can wait awhile longer. When it happens, it's gonna be PERFECT. Thanks for the update.

Edited December 14, 2013 by bigeo

[Alex]

bigeo, you aren't going to be served by waiting. you gotta just get out there and try. you fail/back off a few times, but you'll get up the thing sooner if you have the logistics wired because you've already tried it twice before the same winter. It's only Dec 14th! Drury will likely have at least 2 more months of likely in-ness.....

[Justin Busch]

Here are some follow up pics to Doug's post/report yesterday...

 

1st pitch

 

2nd pitch

 

Upper pitches

 

More upper...could have used some snow pickets on this one! Doug had a cold shower belay on the last pitch.

 

Nice to have finally climbed this thing! Thanks to the folks who gave us some tracks to follow on the dark approach. This weekend may be it until the next cold snap.

[JasonG]

Very cool! That looks like some fun climbing, and not as hard looking as I was expecting. Certainly something to aspire to.

[bigeo]

We went up to Alpental instead and approached two different lines (the one to climbers right of Flow Reversal and something on Bryant Butt.) and actually roped up before the warm temps and threatening hang fire caused us to back off. Ended up on the rap wall instead. My concern with Drury was that there would be similar objective hazards, but, with the effort involved in getting to it and the years of anticipation, good judgment might not prevail. Seeing the pics from yesterday, it doesn't look all that hazardous and I wish we had stuck to plan. Anyway, thanks Alex for the pep talk and I do intend to keep Drury in my sights and make it happen this winter if conditions allow.