ChrisFreye

Cross post from mountain project. https://www.mountainproject.com/v/fs-arcteryx-beta-sl--scarpa-rebel-pro-gtx/111646801 Shoot me a message if you're interested.

I thought I would try my luck on the interweb again since it worked out so awesome last time. I am looking for a long term climbing partner as my current one just underwent major shoulder surgery and is out of the game for a while. I'm a 24 year old dude working on my phd in chemistry at University of Washington. I have been rock climbing for several years now and lead up to 5.10a on trad, 5.11c on sport. I also lead ice up to WI3+ but have not been doing it that long. I really want to get out on the volcanoes here in the near future. My goals are liberty ridge, coleman headwall, north ridge on Hood, and Adams glacier. But I am really down to climb anything. Would kill to get on Nisqually icefall here since the weather has been so good lately. Shoot me something and we will see if we gel as climbing partners. Also a decent skier if anyone is looking to tour. Snow sucks right now but I would still enjoy getting out even to the Muir snowfield.

Are there any good climbs to do this time of year in the enchantments. I'm thinking about heading up there this weekend as well.

I'm at work so no pics but I can tell you that it is super narrow. It is only one foot wide at one point where is slopes a little bit and then drops straight down with a thousand foot drop on either side. It was super solid when I walked across but slightly unerving as the exposure was pretty high.

Trip: Mt Hood - South Side Date: 7/5/2014 Trip Report: Just wanted to post a conditions update for people interested in Hood. The snow softens super early in the day so it is best to start super early. Around midnight would probably be the best. The upper section (Old Chute) is super kicked in. It's probably not necessary to bring an extra axe. Be careful in the Crater itself. The fumeroles are getting really undercut and it possible to walk into one without even noticing it. I was on the summit around 5:30 and headed back down through the crater at 6:00. I honestly don't think I would have wanted to come down any later. There were ominous sounds coming from Steel Cliffs from the sound of rock fall and ice fall. The moment the sun came up the snow softened alot. Nice skiing exists below West Crater Rock. You can ski all the way to the timberline if you want.

I just did South Side this past weekend on the 4th of July. No snow on trail until about an hour in. Easy trail to follow all the way to the summit. There is still quite a bit of snow but it would be easy to find a dry campsite at Lunch Counter if you want. I had the summit to myself because I started to early. Prime skiing conditions exist if you wait around for the snow to soften up a bit.

I should also add probably that I going for a marathon climb this weekend (3 volcanoes, 3 days). Baker should be the last one (if I make it) so I am going to be pretty tired at that point. So I will definitely be slow moving.

I was thinking the Coleman-Deming as well but the giant shrund crossing has me a bit nervous. It is a shorter route overall from parking lot to summit. However, last summer I had to go around the shrund in late June and it was effin huge. I can only imagine what I might encounter on it this year. Only way to cross it was to go near the roman wall and there was an obvious debris field of ice boulders from the cliff above. Needless to say we scrambled pretty fast through there. I've been on the Easton from early june until early August and the route didn't change that much over those months and the crevasses did get bigger in the middle of the glacier but not really near the route itself except at the very top near the saddle between Sherman and Baker

If you were going to solo Baker what route would you do it by. Putting everything else aside such as length and time to summit, what do you think the safest route is. I done many a route on Baker and I was thinking the Easton since the route is always in a similar position and there isn't a large change of rock or icefall and the crevasses can be easily navigated. Thoughts?

Okay so the short version... I need a climbing partner for the weekend since everyone else has bailed. I'm free from July 3rd to 7th. Hit me up for any of those dates. Okay long version... I can't seem to find a consistent partner anywhere for this summer. I would like to get out and climb in the alpine world this weekend. If we click maybe we shall have more adventures together. As long as you have a brain and are safe we should be set. So if you want to slog across glaciers... cool. If you want to climb technical ice/snow routes...cool. If you want to boulder... go somewhere else.

Looking at getting on some glacier stuff. PM sent

Well if everyone is saying about 90 mm then how about the Voile Vector. Very similar to the BD aspect but about a pound lighter. I cant afford to buy dynafit skis as they are almost double BD and Voile prices. I also hear that they are less durable.

I am looking to get into ski mountaineering on the volcanoes and touring on the east side of Mt. Baker

So I am just getting into backcountry skiing and there are way to many options to choose from but I think I have narrowed it down a bit. I was wondering if some people on CC could help point me in the right direction. So I'm pretty sure I've figured out my boots to be the Scarpa Maelstrale RS. (I have really wide feet) I'm also going to get some tech bindings like Dynafit Radical. Choosing skis is were the problem comes to light. I wandered down to REI and one of the people there suggested the Voile Charger. I know it all depends on conditions such as spring corn on the volcanoes and winter touring conditions. Can anyone suggest a good all around ski or a pair of skis (one for spring on the volcanoes and a second for winter touring). Thanks in advance.

So... I have read a lot of stories about people running into issues on Liberty Ridge. Most of them have been people going up when the weather window is not appropriate for a summit push. Also some people have had to be rescued due to inexperience. I don't want to fall into either situation. I was wondering if people on cc.com had some suggestions about what routes to do in order to prepare for Liberty Ridge. I dirt-bagged this past summer and a lot people I ran into warned me about the dangers which I am fully aware of but when I asked for good routes to train for Liberty Ridge they didn't have any suggestions. (Makes me wonder if they even did it) So I was wondering if people had any suggestions on what routes would be a good precursor to Liberty Ridge. I've included some climbs that I have done that seem to be in line with training for Liberty Ridge: North Ridge of Baker Price Glacier on Shuksan Kautz Glacier on Rainier Reid HW on Hood I am also trying to do Coleman HW before if possible. Any suggestions are welcome (well almost any)

What is the Jeff book that you're speaking about? I've heard multiple people mention it now

Trip: Mt. Hood - Reid Headwall Date: 1/25/2014 Trip Report: A buddy and I finally got out this season after a long hiatus. We decided on Reid Headwall as a good outing but were worried about conditions. A TR about leuthold sealed the deal. Thanks guys! We drove to timberline the night before. With minimal sleep, we were up and walking up the hill at 2. We got to illumination saddle at 4. We sat down and rested for ~45 min and then proceeded on our way. (We wanted sunlight since neither of us had ever done the route) The traverse across the Reid glacier is super icy and quite steep and it does't matter how high or low you go. And that's when it all went to hell... We managed to not go far enough along the glacier and ended up climbing a couple pitches of ice to nowhere. After deciding that we were definitely on the wrong route we went down and headed further along the glacier. A lot of wasted time. We finally found the entrance. The bergshrund has a nice snow bridge over it. We were finally on track. The first coulior was merciless and pelted us with rocks and ice but once we were out we didn't see anymore ice or rock fall for the day. Being super skilled we went the wrong way again. Make sure you go left! Hard left! It was okay though because we got to climb 1000 ft of very nice ice. We soloed all of it. On average it was AI2 with sections of AI3. Very solid. Then we hit another wall. We realized down at the top of the second coulior, we should have headed left. oops We roped up finally and I led two 40 M pitches of questionable steep ice with some mixed climbing thrown in. It was very sweet. We emerged on the West crater rim even with the top of the bottom of Hogsbacks. We decided against summitting and called it a day. With the sun going down we headed down the mtn. Back to the car at 6. Not to bad for a 16 hr day. Notes: Dont bring skis! Though I am new to skiing, I can tell you that conditions are miserable. Pretty much anything above palmer is ice. I imagine skinning would suck as well. Though we didn't actually do the correct route, I would say conditions were perfect on the part that we did. The ice was super firm and there was minimal ice/rock fall Gear: We brought 6 screws, 2 pickets, 40 M rope, two tools, and the usual. We didnt use the screws or pickets on the route until the very end but screws would have gone in great on all portions of the route. If we had pitched it out or simuled it, I would probably have brought extra screws. Soloing was extremely fast but induced major calf burn. Go get at it!

Definitely interested in the Reid HW as the plan is to do it tomorrow. Information would be much appreciated.

Marble canyon temps look acceptable. Do you know where I can find info on the routes there besides westcoastice.com? Do you think they would be in on saturday and sunday? Also what about manning park?

Does anyone know where I can find conditions for Duffy and the surrounding area? Also, where can I find more information about the routes there?

Since I am new to WA I really don't know that much about the winter here except that it is quite fickle. I know there isn't any ice (except alpine routes if I'm lucky) to be had. Seems like everyone is suggesting going to BC to get on some ice. So my question is... Where is the most reliable ice at and can you name some close places that would make a good weekend trip? Multiple options would be ideal.

I was wondering what everyone's opinion was on a pair of twin climbing ropes. I am thinking about getting twin Bluewater 7.7 Ice Floss but I am not quite sure if I should get 60 M or 70 M. Thoughts?

I would be interested in a couple of those screws if you decide to break them up. Pm if interested.

Due to the cold snap ice is forming up in Leavenworth. Personally, I climbed Hubba Hubba on Thursday and the bottom part was pretty wet and thin but above that it was solid ice but thin in places. Just came back from Leavenworth today (12/7) and was on Rainbow Falls right. We ended up TRing it because the ice looked questionable in places to lead but I can say all of it would go on lead with solid protection except for the very top having climbed it now. Catch in early in the morning or it will fall apart on you. The top was overhanging, and a bit thin, and well I don't lead that hard of ice.... Also Drury falls looks excellent but I havent seen it up close; just from the road.