Mainsail: A First Ascent up the Icicle

[JensHolsten]

Thought I would post a link to a film my friend Max Hasson made of a route I established this fall in the Icicle. It's not often that we get a modern look into rock climbing around Leavenworth. It's not all slabs and low angle bumps of rock!

 

It's wasn't a cutting edge route or anything even remotely close, but it was beautiful and fun. Try it!

 

The link:

[Pete_H]

Nice Jens! Looks awesome. What did it go at?

[JensHolsten]

Hey Pete-

 

In the film I give it 12+. I really don't know though...somewhere between 12c and 13b?? The film shows every move...give it a go and tell me what ya think! It really is a fine route. For sure, the best cragging pitch I've ever established.

[el jefe]

Where is this pitch located? I don't recognize the crag.

[Pete_H]

Up from 8 mile, apparently. Haven't been there myself but looks worthwhile.

[el jefe]

Thanks, Pete. Agree it is nice looking line.

[boadman]

On the west side of the road on the hill above the turn off to bridge creek. You walk by it on the way to Quantum Mechanics.

[slab_master]

Hey Pete-

 

In the film I give it 12+. I really don't know though...somewhere between 12c and 13b?? The film shows every move...give it a go and tell me what ya think! It really is a fine route. For sure, the best cragging pitch I've ever established.

 

it looks like a v2 to a good rest. then it breaks left into what looks to be v5 or v6 to a good hanging jug. then cruiser to top.

 

and that equation equals 5.12c/d!

[JensHolsten]

You been on the rig slab_master? That would be cool! Yep that equation is about right, except the second boulder problem may be as hard as V7 or V8, which is why I'm not totally sure of the grade. I know for sure the second bp is harder than V5 though It's tough in L-town because everything is so short, so the grade really depends on a translation from the V system.

[telemarker]

I have video onsighted a lot of hard climbs in my career, so I'm going to agree with Jens on this one regarding the grade.

[Jon H]

Great video, thanks for posting it up. Really enjoyed the music and of course, the climbing.

[slab_master]

cool.

 

i will begin necessary preparations for an attempt to commence perhaps any time now.

[luvshaker]

Really enjoyed that!!

 

Nice video. It was kinda chill sharma fung swcheea style without all the "Pfsssssiiiieeee!!"

[bwwakaranai]

Nice work! and congrats on coming back strong from an injury