Gloves

[wesdyer]

I recently lost some gloves that I'm looking to replace. Wondering what people think is the best system these days for typical climbing in the Cascades?

 

I've typically carried 2-3 liner gloves with 1 pair of outer shells. I love having enough liners that I can rotate through them (I seem to always get them wet even when I try very very hard not to). But, I've found that I really dislike the lack of dexterity of the outer shell gloves. I have also climbed with those insulated atlas work gloves. They work well unless I need to get my hands into snow in early season.

[Eric K]

Lots of good options to chose from. I am assuming you are looking for gloves for winter use. I have had great experience with the Mt Hardware Hydra. Snow seal the leather and wear all day. This last winter I always used the hydra and brought the bd punisher (another great glove) along but rarely needed a glove that warm. Lots of good info on Dane''s blog coldthistle just use the search button.

 

Eric

[wesdyer]

Great suggestions and I really appreciate you pointing me toward Dane's blog. Thanks.

[tvashtarkatena]

I've finally arrived at the following, after much back and forth. My hands are now comfy all the time in all conditions:

 

Warm season - predawn starts when it might be colder - any liner glove. I have a pair of cheapo Seirus (leather palm).

 

Warmer parts of spring/fall, gloves likely: OR Vert gloves. Good for ice leads, too.

 

Cold > 20F: OR Alti mitts and OR Verts

 

Cold < 20F: OR Alti mitts w/down inner liners and OR Verts

 

I haven't found that gloves are adequate, at least for me, at the colder temps.

 

If you're going to be out in the cold rain all day, one option is to throw a pair of large dishwashing gloves over the Verts (motorcycling trick). I don't know why you'd do that to yourself, though.

 

OR rules in the gloves category IMO.

Edited September 12, 2013 by tvashtarkatena

[CaleHoopes]

I agree about OR.

 

One thing that's nice (even though expensive) are the Arctyrex Alpha Gore Tex gloves. Why? The liner actually sucks, but the outer is super lightweight with a leather palm and fingers and a full goretex membrane. I can always throw the outer glove in a pack for like 2 oz and it offers a great deal of rain pro. Then I stuff any other liner in there. Makes for a nice modular system.

[CaleHoopes]

I agree about OR.

 

One thing that's nice (even though expensive) are the Arctyrex Alpha Gore Tex gloves. Why? The liner actually sucks, but the outer is super lightweight with a leather palm and fingers and a full goretex membrane. I can always throw the outer glove in a pack for like 2 oz and it offers a great deal of rain pro. Then I stuff any other liner in there. Makes for a nice modular system.

[genepires]

another climber in monroe-via?

 

are you talking about just summer cascade climbing?

 

My spring/summer/fall glove kit (and mostly volcanoes) is real simple. A couple pair of liners, a windstopper glove and for when things get real crappy, a goretex mitten shell (no liner) over the WS gloves. Luckily the goretex hardly ever gets used. No one glove will fit all conditions, but this combo works for mostly everything not involving skiing.

If there is alpine ice in the route, I throw in a pair of BD dry tool goves for those steep ice bits but switch to the previous setup for the rest of the mtn.

 

sometimes you just gotta live with wet hands while drying the other ones in your clothes.

[Coldfinger]

Gotta say that FIT, FIT, FIT is the #1 thing for me.

 

Have come to the conclusion that it's not the glove itself that matters per se, but what you do with it. So I am extremely unlikely to pay anything close to full retail for the ridiculously priced gloves of today.

 

So I only buy gloves in sizes I have actually tried on. Too small and hands get cold quick, too big and it ain't easy to climb and way too easy to drop stuff (and one gets cold fingers from having to take them off all the time).

 

Have been very very impressed with the Mountain Hardwear gloves, totally waterproof at the shell and don't get all sogged out and then frozen like the bladder types.

 

Had good luck with a pair of waterproof overmitts (no insulation) for really cold belays. And I do not climb in the approach gloves--nice to have two pairs in nasty conditions. My approach gloves are usually waterproof/breathable but much cheaper $$ wise. Do like the gauntlet gloves for Ice, not so much for approach or skiing.

[wesdyer]

another climber in monroe-via?

 

Yes sir. I actually noticed you were from Monroe a number of years ago (long time lurker, recent poster). We should get together sometime. I head out to Index a few times a month (was there this morning and did GM and Heart of the Country) and of course I get into the mountains as often as I can.

 

are you talking about just summer cascade climbing?

 

Yes, largely but also some winter climbing in the cascades. Now that I am replacing gloves again, I'm just generally rethinking my quiver.

 

sometimes you just gotta live with wet hands while drying the other ones in your clothes.

 

Yeah, you are right. I can mostly keep them dry 3 season unless I get into climbing steeper snow and then I invariably stick my hands into the snow as I climb or put in placements. In winter, I really struggle to keep them dry.

[wesdyer]

Warmer parts of spring/fall, gloves likely: OR Vert gloves. Good for ice leads, too.

 

I'm really thinking seriously about getting the verts between your suggestion and what I read on Dane's blog.

[tvashtarkatena]

They dry fast, too.

[Woodcutter]

OR Alti gloves with the liners removed.

They are the only winter glove that fits my hands. Great dexterity & waterproof. But I am a a furnace & keeping cool is my problem.

 

I would like a pair of synthetic mits for belaying.

 

 

Edited September 13, 2013 by Woodcutter

[CaleHoopes]

I also think FIT is important. It makes a difference whether your hands are cold when circulation is cut off.

 

Anyhow, The OR Extravert gloves are really nice work gloves for ice climbing too. They are not waterproof, but they climb awesome and have great dexterity. Really for cold climates.