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[TR] Whine Spire - Gato Negro (IV, 5.10+, 12p) 9/3/2013


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Posted

Trip: Whine Spire - Gato Negro (IV, 5.10+, 12p)

 

Date: 9/3/2013

 

Trip Report:

Wayne, Lane, Daniel and I climbed Gato Negro on Whine Spire this weekend after failing last year due to weather.

 

I'll skip the details since there have been several TRs in the past on this route. I will say that the climbing is excellent and the route is engaging the whole way through.. all on great rock with only a couple areas of kitty litter.

 

We climbed as two teams of two (Wayne/Lane, Daniel/Myself).. Daniel and I took the left start, while Wayne and Lane took the right start. I believe the left start is the way to go. Wayne led the crux double overhanging corners, while Lane tailed two ropes and brought both Daniel and I up. Other than that, we remained two separate teams of two for the remainder of the climb.

 

I did not find the descent gully to be too bad. It took us a little over an hour to get back to camp from the end of the climb -- 12 hours camp to camp for Daniel and I, about 9.5 hours for Wayne and Lane.

 

Overall, this is a fun route with quick access. Highly recommended!

 

Wayne and Daniel both took photos, but here are mine:

 

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Gear Notes:

Doubles to #2, singles #3-5

 

Approach Notes:

Quick and easy

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Posted

Thanks for the good times Tom! Great report, glad we could drag the 2 house-wives out with us. I got my report loaded now too. I hope to add a few more photos from yours and the other guys collections later.

Posted

That was quite the capper to a busy season! I've spent a good bit of time this evening going thru all the TRs from your summer and WOW, so many outstanding trips/images in just one alpine season.

 

I'm glad you are enjoying the freedom, I would be lying if I said I wasn't jealous. The trip with your dad was certainly inspirational for me, having just spent the long weekend hiking with my boys at <1 mile per hour!

Posted

Thanks Jason, yeah it was a good year with a lot of variation (hikes, ski trips, traverses, climbs). My freedom comes to an end here pretty soon, so I'm trying to get it out of my system.

 

Anyways, yeah Gato is a very worthy climb! Interesting the whole way and continually steep.

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