Batura or Extreme Evo

[paborden]

Finally want to get a decent pair of technical non-plastic boots for climbing ice in the lower 48.

 

Swore I'd pick up a pair of the La Sportiva Extreme Evos this year ... but just saw the Baturas and I'm intrigued.

 

Can anyone compare / contrast the two?

[ScaredSilly]

Can not compare but I tired them but like the Scarpa Phantom Guides better. So check those out as well.

[dfrost]

If you're talking about the Trango Extreme EVO, then the major difference is the last--Batura is wider than the Trango. I can wear the former, but not the latter.

 

 

[EastCoastBastard]

I have both the Trango Extreme Evo and the Batura 2.0 gtx. Both fantastic boots - but different. The edge in technical performance goes to the trango - it's like a rock shoe, but it's not that warm, not super supportive, has a bit more sole flex...I use my trangos for ice and mixed climbing. I have used them for alpine climbing (before I bought the Baturas) too.

I prefer the Batura for alpine climbing because it's warmer, lighter (I'm not sure if it's actually lighter, but it certainly feels lighter), stiffer and more weather-proof (as it has a gaiter). I'd use them for ice climbing too, but only if it was really cold. I'm sure they would mixed climb well too, but it seems like my trangos have a better "feel". I dunno. The Trango has a much narrower last than the Batura - both feel about the same in the heel/arch but there is a lot more room in the toe with the Batura.

 

I think if you had to pick one it would depend what sort of stuff you were climbing and where. Out east where it's mostly single pitch/cragging type routes, very little alpine, I'd go with the trango.

If you're futher west and want to do some winter alpine climbs along with your ice/mixed then maybe the Batura would be a better choice.

 

The new Nepal Cube looks cool too.

[jrc]

^^^ Yeah, looks to me (without trying any of the new boots yet) like the answer to the question of Batura or Trango is Nepal Cube! I really really love by Nepal Extremes for technical routes. Not the best to walk in but a better climber than the Trango's (my only real experience being with the "S" version which is even less supportive) IMO due to the extra support.

[CaleHoopes]

I bought the Batura's and climbed over at Banks Lake with them. They climbed well and for my foot approached horribly :-( And that was a short 40 degreeish approach where my feet hurt at the base of the ice. Since I shopped at Backcountry, I went ahead and ordered some Phantom Guides and did some HIKES with them to see how they'd do. They fit my foot way better and they were about equal. A little lighter and since there was a sale, a lot cheaper.

 

I think the question here is this - will you use them for ice and mountaineering? I used the Phantom Guides on an approach to Liberty Ridge (we got weathered before the ridge), climbed the Emmons, 3 days of low-angle ice climbing on Baker (with one pitch of AI3) and all the hiking involved. They work pretty well for the environment where you have ice somewhere but also need to hike there.

 

I owned one of the Trango models - and I'd have to say that for me I think they'd be too light for the 9 days in Ouray I spend every year. I think on some of those days I'd end up with cold feet and I believe the ankle is just not supportive enough IMHO.

 

The new models: Nepal Cube and Rebel Ultra GTX are very intriguing. But I also think they might be too corner cutting. I'd love to hear how us normal people fair in them (meaning not Ueli Steck and Dane Burns) ;-) (that's not a jab Dane, you're just a more experienced guy than me and you probably can get away with a light boot with a soft ankle for your ice work)

[Dane]

Ha, ha! Cale that was funny.

 

Trango Extreme is a pretty commmon boot on Canadian ice in warm weather. Batura and more likely the Phantom Guide when it is cold. Helps MEC sells Scarpa.

 

New Nepal Cube is just a lighter more water proof, durable, carbon mid sole Nepal..similar upgrades as the Batura to Batura 2.0 previous. Nepal in any version is no light weight (as far as support) and in fact offers the most ankle support and less flexability of any boot mentioned in this thread.

 

Not a lot more support in the Trangos than the Batura or Guide. All have enough to climb long sections of vertical ice. Newest Rebel Ultra has more support than the Trango by a good bit and is lighter than any of them..but not by much and not as warm as most. Pretty much like the Trango Extreme for warmth I think. May be a little warmer depending on how you fit it. Rebel Ultra is a narrow and snug boot with a very technical fit. Almost like a fruit boot as much a mtn boot I think. Not for everyone I suspect. But I would really encourage anyone of any skill level to at least try them on. I believe they will make anyone a better ice climber simply by lowering the size of your foot profile and enabling you to climb on smaller more delicate ice features that were unavailable to most previous. Me included. I still believe the Rebel Ultra is a "game changer" in technical ice foot wear. Just as the 1st ICE/Batura was almost a decade ago now.

 

You were right ECB, Batura 2.0 version is lighter than the Trango

 

Scrapa Rebel Ultra size 45 1# 14oz

Scarpa Phantom Guide size 45 weight 2# 7.5oz

La Sportiva Trango Extr Evo GTX size 45 weight 2# 3oz

La Sportiva Batura 2.0 size 45 2# 2oz

 

hope all that helps some.

[CaleHoopes]

Ok, after reading this - I hope Scarpa brings some Rebel Ultras to Bozeman and Ouray this year for demos. Last year La Sportiva didn't bring the Batura 2.0 for demos to Ouray and that sucked because I really wanted to compare em. I did climb in the Salewa Insulated Gaiter Pro's at Ouray and even bought them, but they got returned.

 

LOL Dane! I'm still thinking of the Scarpa Rebel Ultra possibly being the perfect alpine boot for summer/fall rock glacier and ice boots in the cascades. After trying some vertical ice at the fests, maybe I'll end up with a pair. We'll see.

 

Thanks for the reply to my "jab"

[ColinB]

Definitely a fan of the Phantom Guide myself. If they fit, they're a solid boot for all the ice/mixed/single-day alpine you want in the lower 48. After spending last winter climbing in some Phantom 6ks (gross and sweaty down here...), the Guides are super solid. I'm a big fan on the integrated gaiters in the Guide and Batura. Works well when coupled with some shock cord & grommets on your pants. The Guides aren't the most comfortable for long approaches but they climb really well (precise and sensitive) and are low volume boots.

[Lukas]

what's a popular alpine boot for the north cascades in spring/summer? i already have a koflach double boot i use for mountaineering. i was thinking either the nepal evo or trango extreme evo.