rigid/semi-rigid crampons

[dbconlin]

I am thinking of getting some new crampons that are better for the vertical world. The ones I have now are hinged glacier crampons and I find them lacking sometimes. Does anyone have opinions (ha!) on what is better, rigid or semi-rigid, and for what types of climbing, advantages/disadvantages etc.? Also, any comments on specific models would be welcome. Right now I'm thinking:

Semi-rigid:

-BD Bionic

-CM M10

-Grivel G14

Rigid:

-DMM Terminator

-Trango Hyper Harpoon

-Grivel Rambo Comp

 

Appreciate it!

[mneagle]

I upgraded to M-10's last year and was amazed at how they improved my climbing. They felt very secure on steep ice and mixed ground. They are highly adjustable to suit your taste and come as dual points, so you get a free extra pair of front points if you rig them as mono's. I got them for a great price off Barrabes.

[IceIceBaby]

Dittos for the M-10

However look in to the replacement points kit ($80) and the worst antibot in the market ($35) u can time it in hours before it fall apart completely but u must have it

So…aside from their marketing scams and absolute climbers moneys rip-off policy from Petzl they are the best I ever own ….just remember u WILL need a deep pockets when u own them

[Minus]

I've had a pair of terminators for a couple of years now. Love 'em. Spent about 3 weeks raving about them to my mates after a trip to Scotland and a couple more mates bought them.

Pros - Can change setup to vertical mono (off set or middle), dual, or a flattened horizontal mono supposedly better for mixed, but haven't used it.

Gives you something to take apart and put back together again when weather is pissy.

 

Cons- no anti-balling plate, but can buy one for another $35 I think. Better get one 'cos without it they're attract snow from around 3 feet to the base of your boot.

 

Don't know how heavy they are, but I'm no muscle man and have coped so far.

 

 

[mwills]

as far as rigid or semirigid - that depends on what type of climbing you plan on doing. semi-rigids are much easier to walk in. however, on steep ice they don't offer your calfs as much relief.

 

i have the rambocomps and love them. be sure to get the dual-point version, then go to the hardware store and make your own mono point kit. this will save you $$$.

 

also, i have the g14's and would highly reccomend them. no complaints at all. the are light (even lighter when paired with the backs of the g10 aluminums), can be monos or duals out of the box, and walk well. with no vertical rails, anti-bots are almost not necessary (almost, that is). i used these all last week in Canada on ice up to WI4+ and had no problems. i'm not sure how much use the rambocomps will see in the future .

[cracked]

Has anybody tried the Hyper Harpoons? The look good, and the price is right! I can't find anybody in the Seattle area who carries them, though.

[thelawgoddess]

mwills said:

i used these all last week in Canada on ice up to WI4+ and had no problems. i'm not sure how much use the rambocomps will see in the future .

 

old thread, but i had questions. this guy was talking about his G14's. anybody using them to climb harder ice or mixed routes? or at that point would you switch to something beefier (like the rambocomp evo 3) or maybe something "in-between" like the new M10's?

[mammut_rep]

Lawgoddess,

The G-14's will work for any terrain. In fact, I think they are better crampons for steeper/difficult climbs because there is less weight under your foot compared to the Rambos or even the M-10's. The frontpoints are the same as what is on the Rambos and that is where most of the work is being done. PM me if you want more details.

[thelawgoddess]

thanks. will do.

 

any comments on the points near the toe of the foot? (not the frontpoints.) they m10 seems to be similar to the sabertooth in that respect, and i've had someone tell me that this is very useful. really, though???

[scott_harpell]

thelawgoddess said:

thanks. will do.

 

any comments on the points near the toe of the foot? (not the frontpoints.) they m10 seems to be similar to the sabertooth in that respect, and i've had someone tell me that this is very useful. really, though???

 

are you talking about the teertiary points? the ones that are right behind teh frotn points and are longer than the others (in most crampons)?

[Fromage]

I took a look at the Hyper Harpoon and the HH Guide. They look slick, simple, strong, a design influenced heavily by Rambocomps. They are cheap, too, about $50 less than most of the other rigid models you are considering. It might be worth seeing if you can mail order these from Europe, in which case they would be even cheaper!

 

I climbed on Rambocomps most of last season and was pleased with the way they perform. A well-sharpened monopoint requires less effort to place than any double point configuration, and the huge secondary points of the Rambocomps made for very nice stable tripods.\

 

If you measure the distance from the tip of the frontpoint to the tip of the secondary point AND the angle that this line forms, you will find that crampons like the Rambocomp, Terminatory, and probably the Hyper Harpoon will create very stable tripods with less heel drop. Also compare the distance across the front of the crampon between the secondary points. The Rambocomps are flared, and the points are the widest-spaced of any I have seen. This makes for good edging on rock and added stability on ice. I still use my trusty old Footfangs for mixed routes, though, because I don't worry about trashing them. They still hold up surprisingly well on M7 .

 

None of the crampons you listed are "bad," so you really can't go wrong with your choice, just some models might be slightly better suited for some styles of climbing than others. Ultimately, though, it is the skill of the climber that determines whether or not you get up. I believe the same relationship holds true with crampons that does with ice tools: the best ones are the ones you have.

[EastCoastBastard]

Hey I have the Trango Hyper Harpoons and I really like them. Super solid, they climb really well, they come with extra points, the case is pretty good and light. They look cool and I can't really say anything bad about them except that they could use an anti-snow plate. I couldn't find anybody who sold them around me , so bought them direct from Trango. make sure they'll fit your boots. I've got an 11.5 foot and they don't have much extra room on my Koflachs. Also- If you're going to use them on Sacrpa Inverno's watch out because the heel of the boot is wider than the heel bail on the crampon.

[IceIceBaby]

Now when I wizen and Fatten over the years I have to say That between my Rambocomp and the M-10 the Rambocomp is better for ice and mix better points config (=stability) cant wait to try the new G-14 also I have the Rages and I am looking for a lighter (or feel lighter) tools (I also have the Quark…slightly too light and they vibrate a lot …ohh that’s why they recommend them for woman… )

[thelawgoddess]

hey iceicebaby! i've used the rambocomps and i loved them ... except for when i was trying to walk around on the coleman glacier. talk about sketchball! but that's why i'm looking at crampons that have more/bigger rear points.

 

(btw, when i was looking at tools, i was considering the quarks and the top machines. i went with the top machines. nicer shafts if you ask me. )

[IceIceBaby]

thelawgoddess said:

hey iceicebaby! i've used the rambocomps and i loved them ... except for when i was trying to walk around on the coleman glacier. talk about sketchball! but that's why i'm looking at crampons that have more/bigger rear points.

 

Yep the Rambocomp is pretty much specialized crampon…but anyway fully rigid will not cut it for Glacier travel but they for Water fall ice and mix

 

thelawgoddess said:

(btw, when i was looking at tools, i was considering the quarks and the top machines. i went with the top machines. nicer shafts if you ask me. )

 

Well it is all matter of what u like more anyway u use it, it will be “Happy ending” take your "pick" French or Italian

[thelawgoddess]

IceIceBaby said:

Well it is all matter of what u like more anyway u use it, it will be “Happy ending” take your "pick" French or Italian

hmm. well ... hot italian is sounding pretty good right about now.