telemarker Posted July 23, 2013 Posted July 23, 2013 (edited) The traverse from the 2nd pitch of Mercy Me to the base of the Split Pillar is one of the more funky pitches I have ever done. Both for the leader and the follower. Anyone ever experience this gem? It's been while since I've been that gripped on second balancing my way through near blankness. Chris Martin did am outstanding lead on this one, though following it felt like a lead as well. And then the Split Pillar... wow. What can you say about that? Some eye candy: Edited July 23, 2013 by telemarker Quote
tanstaafl Posted July 23, 2013 Posted July 23, 2013 Nice pics! That is a sweet crack, innit? My follower on that traverse claimed I hung out for ages in the middle of the crux fiddling with gear; somehow I managed to find just the right hold for balance, I guess. What else did you get on up there, bro brah? Quote
telemarker Posted July 23, 2013 Author Posted July 23, 2013 Peasant's Route as per your recommendation. And, of course Exasperator Crack. Quote
tanstaafl Posted July 23, 2013 Posted July 23, 2013 Sounds like an excellent trip. Did you do the full Grand Wall? Quote
telemarker Posted July 23, 2013 Author Posted July 23, 2013 Nope. We climbed the pillar then determined our work there was done. We'll go back though! Quote
boadman Posted July 23, 2013 Posted July 23, 2013 Next time, try entering w/ cruel shoes. It adds a significant amount of climbing. Quote
telemarker Posted July 23, 2013 Author Posted July 23, 2013 (edited) Next time, try entering w/ cruel shoes. It adds a significant amount of climbing. How is the last pitch traverse of cruel shoes? Reasonable or 5.10d unprotected slab? Edited July 23, 2013 by telemarker Quote
boadman Posted July 23, 2013 Posted July 23, 2013 The only pitch that wasn't well protected was the second to last 5.9 pitch, if I remember correctly. It's been a while. MP seems to agree with me: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/cruel-shoes/105918292 The climbing genuinely fun the whole way though. Quote
BootsandPants Posted July 24, 2013 Posted July 24, 2013 Cool and super fun climbing! I was on the upper pitches of Peasants route while you guys were climbing the pillar (I recognize that dayglo green shirt). Sounded like you guys were having some fun with the whooping coming from that way Was a nice weekend to be up in Squamish! Quote
eric8 Posted July 24, 2013 Posted July 24, 2013 The last 10d pitch of cruel shoes is essentially a thin face sport pitch with closely spaced bolts. Pitch 3 is similar in character to the traverse from mercy me to the split, maybe slightly harder but I remember the gear being pretty good. Quote
eric8 Posted July 24, 2013 Posted July 24, 2013 oh, and the sword is classic and low in the grade with good gear... Quote
pazzo Posted August 28, 2013 Posted August 28, 2013 For the record you can get descend from the base of Perry's Layback to the ground on a single 70m *There is one steep rap in there but it's quite manageable. Quote
spiderman Posted September 22, 2013 Posted September 22, 2013 Yo John, Do Cruel Shoes, Grand Wall, Roman Chimney finish. Be sure to hit the 11D roof crack variation on Roman Chimneys. Great outing. This might even be better than Freeway....surely a lot more pitches and milage. Quote
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