genepires Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Trip: wine spires - piasano w ridge / burgundy n face Date: 6/28/2013 Trip Report: A little bit late, but better than never for someone who hasn't posted a TR in years. forgive my slothness and lack of skill. What does a middle aged guy do when he can't crag enough to send 5.10 realiably but wants to have a big day on rock? Linkup routes at WA pass of course! Curt Veldhuisen and I went to the wine spires to linkup the west ridge of piasano pinnacle and the north face of burgundy spire. Curt had done both routes on seperate trips and my last time on burgundy was some 12 years previous. Time to step it up. We drove up to the pass after work on thursday with the idea to hike up to the bench to camp. But low clouds, mist and general slothness made easy convincing for a truck bivy at the cutthroat trailhead. But that make the friday a bit longer day and I would pay for that slothness in the future. We made a nice early 5 am start from the hwy and made it to the bench around 7am. There was a couple of folks camped out who apparently wandered in the clouds the day before. After a short rest, the uphill trudge continued to a long traverse across an area of compact dirt to the west ridge proper. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/thumbs/DSCN2232.JPG/ [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/thumbs/DSCN22352.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/thumbs/DSCN2236.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/thumbs/DSCN22401.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/DSCN2242.JPG[/img] On the 4th pitch, there is a sharp ridgeline with options for either side. Right side had the feet walking on this huge seemingly detached flake which I took. I was a bit too short for the left side but Curt managed to do that side. Take your pick. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/thumbs/DSCN2245.JPG[/img] Pitch 8 has some runout slab climbing but the rock is clean and grippy. This put us on top paisano around 1pm. A short walking traverse and down climb puts you a little ways up the north face, into that small loose bowl area. We went up the normal way using the 5.8 "awesome" labeled line and yeah, it was awesome. Curt managed the last OW pitch (spooky) to finish off our 5 pitches of Burgundy for a 13 pitch day at around 4pm. Val Zepher and friend was hot on our heals running up the N face. We brought a 70 m single line and this is not the best choice for thte route. No pitch was longer than 40m and there was not enough rope for one of the rappels so we ended up leaving a block slung. (there was another anchor that we could have taken but didn't see it till too late) Double 50m would be ideal. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/thumbs/DSCN2246.JPG[/img] Back to the col sometime past 6pm. Hustle down. rehydrate and whine about my toes that were in rock shoes too long. hustle down..down...down... Back to the truck and a shot of scotch at 9pm 16 hr day. prolly slow for some people but not bad for some "old guys" sat- to tired to do anything but drive home sun-tired but enough to play with my kid mon-tired at work tues-ditto wed- that was "phun" th- that was really "FUN"! 4 days to recover. damn aging. classic roadside photo of the liberty spires. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/thumbs/DSCN2247.JPG[/img] Approach Notes: down the hill, cross the creek with a log, up the hill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Nice work Gene and Curt!!! I love that link-up, tons of great climbing. And don't feel bad, it is a long day from the road, no matter your age. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Definitely a great day out with Gene the Machine! Would have been faster if I wasn't bumbling around up on the north ridge looking for the original Beckey finish. For those who've done it: Does it really go left across the little slab to that crazy-exposed horn thing?! Other beta: On pitch 5 of Paisano, the "5.8+ funky" should say "5.8 funky+". Several tempting holds are loose (or gone, after my lead). The left-hand option is much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Val Zephyr Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 It was nice meeting you guys! I think that I'll try your Paisano to Burgundy "awesome" pitch link-up next time. It sounds like a lot of fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Sjolseth Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Nice work guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Fantastic, nice job. Even "old guys" can still send proud lines on classic formations! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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