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Spring Mtn Routes


hanman

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I haven't been putting up routes, but I did bail off the 3rd pitch of Erockticka because i was either off route or the climbing on route was just SUPER dirty.

I also pulled a microwave size block off the bottom of pitch three around a mini roof.

 

Before

P1220132e.jpg

 

 

After!

P1220134e.jpg

 

That place needs traffic outside Other Side of the Tracks.

Still a fun day with not a soul around!

 

 

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Loose blocks AND dirty? I guess that's what happens when roads get closed for a few years. I'll be focusing on the area this summer- any help would be very appreciated. Thanks Mountainsloth for the block removal. On a good note, Danny checked out the Romantica area last w/e and found things not too mossy, much the same conditions as the FA period...

 

MH

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yea, the first 3 pitches of Romantica was quite nice. we got turned around because the 4th pitch was quickly consumed by the waterfall as the day got warmer and sunnier. In fact, when we were rapping the 2nd pitch, it too had been engulfed in a small waterfall while we were above!

 

I would be happy to help clean that place and clear up some of the trails at the base if the timing works out. PM me and we can exchange emails.

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Conditions update. We were up there today with a beautiful Dtown forecast. Everything right of cloven roof was a waterfall. A party of 2 was on Erocktica, and a party of 3 was on Other side of the tracks. After a couple pitches, we went looking for what my guide called "Greyell Project" and ended up on what I'm guessing is a very new route. Scrambling up 40' or so to a belay piton, Clipped a few bolts and plugged just enough cams on an ever steepening Arete. A 70m just barely got me back to terra firma. When I got down we noticed there were cleaning tools at the launch pad, prolly shoulda taken em with me cause I was cleaning nearly every foothold anyway. I left a pair of shades with 'em that we found under the Cloven Roof. Great line! And awesome work whomever is responsible. Anybody happen to know the name? I'd be happy to throw that in with my ever expanding guide. Awesome place! I'd love to do a couple new routes up there if the locals don't mind.

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That route was started several years ago and never finished, I assume because attention was focused on other longer, cleaner, better projects at Squire Creek Wall.

 

I have top roped the first pitch and it was good climbing. Hanny, what is the status on it now? Still as it was left several years ago?

 

It may be so dirty cause it hasn't seen a climber for several years once abandoned.

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This does seem plausible. However, this route had no evidence of another pitch above. And there seemed to be hours of recent gardening to make the 40' scramble to the base, not an entirely miserable schwack. Also the brushes, and broom appeared new... I'll have to check out Squire creek someday too! Thanks.

 

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Quarry-

 

This was a route started by Greyell and myself many years ago, we never finished as the road was closed for a few years. Over the last couple weeks, I have started to work on it again, and am currently into the third pitch which is going in ground up, so will take some time to work through the veggies. We scrubbed the first pitch and the second is still in need. Glad you liked it. It will be set up for 35M raps, as you noted.

 

MH

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