Liberty bell early spring

[JDCH]

Howdy!

 

Wondering if anyone has any experience with early early season ascents of Liberty Bell-- Just the standard Beckey Route.

 

Basically, I'm thinking about heading up there this weekend if the weather holds, and I am trying to imagine the conditions on the route, (other than cold) ie, snow on the route, ice on the route, don't do it. etc

 

any advice or pointers would be lovely,

 

Thanks!

 

James

[bobinc]

I'd take skis and also an axe and aluminum crampons for the gully. Hard to know if the climb itself will have much snow on it. But if you get up the notch ands it looks okay, go ahead. If there seems to be too much snow, you can just descend the gulley and spend the day touring in the general vicinity.

Edited April 16, 2013 by bobinc

[BirdDog]

Routes are often reasonably snow free early season; however pro can be problematic because all the cracks are filled with ice.

[genepires]

the chimney (1st two pitches) will be chilly, but the rest should be fine. been on it in late may and it was very good. Even had a snow storm the night before but the route was very doable after a couple hours of morning sun.

[Buckaroo]

Just do it.

 

 

[JDCH]

Awesome, thanks for the feedback, definitely going to head out there and at least give it a shot!

 

Would it be worth bringing two tools/a tool with a hammer instead of a mountaineering ax to clear ice from cracks to place gear?

 

Thanks!

[JDCH]

Also- Last question -- does anyone know the status of the campgrounds out there? Can I just park on the road at the TH and camp in the back of my truck and then climb and head home?

 

i climbed it 4 times last summer, i just realize that it will be drastically different in mid april and want to make sure I don't get up there at 7pm friday night and spend several hours trying to figure out where to sleep without cell coverage.

 

Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[genepires]

the parking lot will not be plowed. you will have to sleep in your rig on the side of the hwy (may not be a plowed parking yet?) or sleep in the snow in the woods.

 

better have a plan B if there is no parking at blue lake TH.

 

[JDCH]

Thanks gene, yeah, I figured the parking lot wouldn't be plowed, I should have been more clear, I was asking if I could sleep on the side of the road, sounds like I can! Thanks!

 

And of course, I will have a plan b. always should have a plan b in early season n cascades

[yikes]

I slept in the back of a truck parked just off the fog line at the Blue Lake trailhead last year about this time. I heard a rumor that it was OK. Practically, I guess it will just depend how far over its plowed. Good luck, have fun and let me know if you're still interested in aid practice on rainy days.

Jason

[Jason4]

There is parking at the Blue lake trailhead for maybe 4 or 5 cars and also more to the east on the north side of the highway. Check my instagram feed @jasonspeer for a shot of the LB group from yesterday (I'm at work and don't really feel like uploading to another photosharing host from here).

 

I didn't have time to get out on the snow but I did go to Mazama on a drive for work mostly so I could scope out the conditions. The campgrounds on the east side of the crest are mostly free from snow and obviously the further you go to the east side the less snow there is. I think you'll be ok sleeping in your car this time of year but I haven't tried it myself.