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ivan

[TR] Dawg Mtn - God Spine (Helser Direkkkt - 5.mossy, 3 3/2/2013

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Trip: Dawg Mtn - God Spine (Helser Direkkkt - 5.mossy, 3

 

Date: 3/2/2013

 

Trip Report:

my centennial cascadian cluster-fuck!

 

a froward febuary, spring forestalled and we all weather-fucked - a hip shot of a trip here and there, and what to show for it, for the record-books at least? a day-climb of the complete picnic lunch wall n' zebra-zion to boot, a shot at a day-climb of stone-soup cut short w/ my pinky-tip all shorn off, a jaunt to the jungle cliff..

 

couple weeks back kenny n' i thought to climb the dog spine, so set out, stoned as statute permits here in the blessed paradise of washington - sadly we were right too eager, and stomped up far too far west of the proper place - a strong wind that brain-sucked saturday, my mind pickled w/ purple burgundy and too feeble to advocate properly for wherever it was we shoulda been - us in the parking lot w/ me realizing i'd left crampons n' day pack behind, smokes too, and where the fuck my sanity - i blame myself, bastard i am.

 

the first footfalls of getting fuck-all lost

dog1.jpg

we kept wandering up, expecting to find funtacular free-climbing on moss at any point, but profoundly dismayed to never meet more than another calf-busting scree-slope

dog2.jpg

long story short, at 2000 feet we burst upon the main hiking trail and so obviously we'd no recourse left but to drink to our dregs...

 

a weekend later and i at the jungle cliff w/ beatard ben - grappling w/ gorillas or whatever appellation had been affixed to it i don't know - just stormy n' sultry that jew-sabbath i recall

 

dog3.jpg

pitch 2 - a line of hero-bolts to big-sweating on a fixed bit of what-the-fuck, begging a high-step in both aiders to a desperate bit of pin-banging just to protect a bitter step down to free the daisy so as to dance a wee bit further up on a titacular ledge

 

dog4.jpg

ben following, just before a birdbeak blew out :)

dog5.jpg

another week later and wet i was to have another what-have-you w/ the dog - the powderhund n' his bro pat the new set of nefarious cluster-fucks to call comrades for this quixotic quest

 

the proper parking place for the helkser start (and a fine place to file away a big old dookie under a decade of scree n' sand :) )

dog6.jpg

pretty typical mudd-fucking far below

dog7.jpg

somewhere in this forest we must be...

dog8.jpg

route-finding ain't so strait-forward for much of this free-for-all - hem n' haw n' head wherever the spirit moves you - here old bryan'n bored off to a hanging basin of scree and where we needed to be to bear up on the far end of the "dead deer traverse" (which we could identify by a bit of fixed webbing on a horn to protect the crux of the traverse)

dog9.jpg

pat w/ time for a butt and a laugh - our passage trhough to the end of the dead deer traverse and the first bit of roped climbing just beyond his shoulder

dog91.jpg

we kept thinking that thing was the dog rock spire itself, though in time it proved the drathmar

dog92.jpg

the first bit of heads-up - an improbable passage at first - we came to it from the east, but the other way from the west was protected by a fixed sling n' ladder to facilitate cowards coming up from thither

dog93.jpg

pin anchor from a preternatural era

dog94.jpg

bryan got that pitch - the only one gear got placed on - a #3 and a #1 and 2 bolts

dog95.jpg

above that short pitch ye drop the rope and hike up n' right to a deer trail

dog96.jpg

this game trail brought us to a great big goddamn gully, which we struggled up to the saddle by the dog spire

dog97.jpg

the dog spire looks game enough, but not us today in it's wet n' soggy state, us w/o proper shoes n' jesus-fuck, how to rap off it when all said n' done?

 

the pitches above the spire invigorating - bring an axe!

dog98.jpg

i got the next pitch - from a tree slung w/ hardware store cord you head up a creepy slope past 2 bolts to a anchor hard to see

dog99.jpg

no worries, right?

dog991.jpg

another pitch up of ghey-4th class and so you find a rocky gully - bear off left 'fore too long unless you want to tangle w/ a ridge-traverse we declined

 

a bit above that and almost there

dog992.jpg

above this we bailed onto the game trails east of the final summit block - we threw down in the cloud-murk to throw down some beers n' butts in the growing storm

dog993.jpg

the exit a work in itself - up 100 feet and a traverse to 2100 feet in 30 minutes or so that brought us to the trail - we stumbled-fucked n' smoked our way down, all atonto! who can complain about a life like this?

 

Gear Notes:

all we needed was a #3 n' #1 and 4 draws as it's basically an old-skewl sport climb w/ a handful of pins and bolts to protect the skerry bits - the dog rock spire itself could use a #3 for the belay, but from there it looks like the only pro is 2 bolts

- a decent mountain axe quite critical

- anti-tick and poison oak apparel not a joke as we pulled a handful of those horrid fuckers off us (hopefully the oak was still dormant :) )

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I have got to get out and climb some of that mossy gorge rock...The views look sweet...

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Ivan you should have asked me about Dog Rock. I rope soloed it and there is an anchor on top.

 

 

Wrote up the adventure on my blog:

http://blog.oregonlive.com/climbing/2011/12/100_days_100_miles_100_climbs_35.html

 

And here was the recon of the route:

http://blog.oregonlive.com/climbing/2011/12/100_days_100_miles_100_climbs_32.html

 

Plaid Untitled_0_00_58-02.jpg

 

Untitled_0_00_00-01_3_.jpg

 

 

Untitled_0_01_25-08.jpg

 

That bump near the top of the shadow is me on top of Dog Rock.

 

Untitled_0_01_32-20.jpg

 

Untitled_0_00_03-14.jpg

 

Untitled_0_00_27-24.jpg

 

Untitled_0_00_54-16.jpg

Edited by Plaidman

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i assumed there was one - rain was already falling, we'd just boots and gigs in the evening too, so the cards weren't right - it's worth goign back for

 

how hard the all of 20 foot climb? 5.7?

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It's 5.4 but the exposure ups the anti a bit. Making that move solo on sight was wild. At least it was for me!

 

It seemed a little longer than 20ft. Although I am a short hobbit sized guy.

 

Plaid

Edited by Plaidman

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Thanks Steve. That will be all from the peanut gallery!

 

I told you about eating those peanuts. They are making you loopy.

 

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rain was already falling, we'd just boots and gigs in the evening too,

 

Excuses......

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rain was already falling, we'd just boots and gigs in the evening too,

 

Excuses......

 

getting laid is always and appropriate excuse

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