Tyson.g Posted September 30, 2012 Posted September 30, 2012 Trip: Squire Creek Valley - Waterfall Buttress Date: 9/22/2012 Trip Report: On the weekend of 9/23 I had the pleasure of climbing in the Squire Creek Valley with Rainman and my buddy RF. RF and I left the TH on Saturday in low clouds and cool temps at the amazingly sloth like hour of noon.We did not lolligag and were able to reach Marthas place in a quick for us 2 hours and 15 minutes. Rainman had been in the valley since the day prior and was just returning from a hike when we arrived at camp. A quick beer and salutations were had and we all took a top rope turn on the route "Drilling Martha". This was my first time on this route and found it to be quite fun with a challenging start which I believe to be the crux. One can easily solo up the back of the boulder to reach a nice anchor set up on top for the TR.One can also lead the route. The weather was not the best although a nice break and lifting of the clouds was had around 7:00pm. The break was short lived and more beer and whiskey were consumed with optimism but little real expectations for the next days weather to improve. The next morning dawned grey and with more of the same low clouds. A leisurely breakfast and coffee around camp and then a decision to at least take a walk up to the Waterfall Buttress Route and see what happened. Around 15 minutes later we were at the base of the "approach pitch" which is an easy scramble with the exception of a single 5.4ish move where there is a bad landing in the creek if you miss it. The higher we climbed the better the weather got. It was just perfect temps and loads of fun. We stopped at the top of the fifth pitch. We were about five hours in climbing the route and rapping took about another hour or so. This route is really great. For one the setting is amazing with waterfalls all around and literally right next to you the whole time. The quality of the rock is perfect. The routes position and the line are asthetic and enjoyable. We did a variation on the third pitch that was out of this world. I was not able to free the crux moves on the lower part of the pitch and had to pull on two pieces but I am itching to go back and free that section. I was able to make the majority of this pitch and I can hardly describe how great the rock quality and position are. All I can say is WOW! I highly recommend this route it is worth every second of the approach. Thanks to Rainman and RF for an awesome adventure with great company! The route breaks down like this for the pitches: Pitch 1 5.9 Pitch 2 5.9 Pitch 3 5.9+ (variation 5.10+/5.11-) Pitch 4 5.4/5 Pitch 5 5.9 Pitch 6 5.7 Pitch One Pitch One Looking Down First Pitch RF Following Pitch 2 Rainman on the 3rd Pitch Variation Me Following the 3rd pitch What an amazing place! If you want to see more photos of the route and Drilling Martha: Flickr Set Approach: As per Roan Wall but go to the massive boulder (Marthas Place). From Marthas uphill to the left side of the buttress toe. Rack: Full Rack, 15 runners/draws, 2-60m ropes Quote
crazedmaniac Posted September 30, 2012 Posted September 30, 2012 told D.J. that someday there were going to be "bolts here" and we could just rap off here coming down from craigs, instead of the traverse across the glaciers (which he never took crampons for, and scared me with), and the long way down the steep rib thru the tree. He laughed at me and said never. "no one is ever going to bush wack this way to just climb this". Ran into him this week, went out to see if he still had pics of us climbing here in 85/86. Was the first time Iv,e talked to him in about 8 yrs. He now travels the world seeing everything he can, still hunting for strange rocks and stuff. We spent 5 days climbing on Salish that turned into a dangerous mineral, crystal dig and lot of rock moving. Gota know the mountain man. i know what you mean about the water falls, and the quality of the rock. I loved it. so much so i 'doe-nated' many pins to rapping and sinking in hard (looked like a long way to next, or a fall ahead) to climbing here. Didnt like being in 'the valley' tho in morn and evening. There used to be MASS GOATS there coming thru from the west side of three fingers heading over to clear creek. Haven't seen them in over 15 yrs now. ??? saw quite a few heads being hiked out over the years tho..... Sounds like chris and YOU, got the Squire Creek valley bug too! finally! ITS A BAD ONE! warning... no known treatment known. nice going tyson!!!! Quote
mountainmatt Posted September 30, 2012 Posted September 30, 2012 Awesome! Is the variation new? I wanted to get on that line the last time I was up there, but it started to rain when we were hiking from Martha's place. By far one of the best places to climb in the PNW. Quote
Tyson.g Posted September 30, 2012 Author Posted September 30, 2012 I do believe the variation is new. And I couldn't agree more that 1.) I do have the bug and 2.) It is one of the best places in the pnw. Quote
genepires Posted September 30, 2012 Posted September 30, 2012 is it the new 3'oclock rock? when the FS decides to quick fixing clear creek rd, is this where slabbies can go to get their fix? Quote
Tyson.g Posted September 30, 2012 Author Posted September 30, 2012 I think the approach, among other things would keep that from happening. Quote
mountainmatt Posted September 30, 2012 Posted September 30, 2012 I think the approach, among other things would keep that from happening. That is for sure. The road to the parking lot for Squire creek is a lot nicer than the one to 3'O clock. The approach to any of the routes I have done squire creek are definitely longer and harder. Quote
curtveld Posted October 2, 2012 Posted October 2, 2012 Awesome weekend and photos T! Way to keep the faith through some marginal weather. Also cool that there is something up there that doesn't require 10+ climbing. Sounds like the effort for the MP approach is semi comparable to Green Giant? Quote
Tyson.g Posted October 2, 2012 Author Posted October 2, 2012 Curt - Yep,similar to Green Giant on the approach. A little longer though at 5+/- miles to Marthas Place Boulder. Indeed if one follows the standard route it only gets up to 5.9+, good for guys like me. Although if you are able to lead the 5.11-/5.10+ range then the third pitch variation we did is highly recommended.If your follower is weak like me they can easily french free the crux. The position is incredible. I can see the potential for more moderate multipitch routes(ranging from one to six pitches) in the basin all within a reasonable walk from the Boulder. I know of at least one more route that should be ready next season. Heading out again this weekend. I have the bug! Quote
mountainsloth Posted October 8, 2012 Posted October 8, 2012 My wife and I made it out there about a month ago to visit sweet lady Martha. She took very nice care of us for a night. We also climbed the first 3 pitches of the buttress. the valley the buttress the giant pile of snow at the base the 3rd pitch variation another vote for at least one of the top 3 best places to climb in the PNW Quote
Tyson.g Posted October 8, 2012 Author Posted October 8, 2012 Ah, it was I that met you on the trail that day on your way out. Nice photos. There will be more, was just out there this weekend. Quote
Tyson.g Posted October 9, 2012 Author Posted October 9, 2012 Wow, you guys walked on that snow? Rainman counted something like 52 ice/snowfall events from that pig in 24 hours. There is a hole the size of a semi in the upper 2/3 portion that was definitely not there when he went in on Friday and was when I got there on Saturday around noon. As I walked around on Sunday I threw a few rocks across and onto the upper edge of that field and caused a snow/ice fall event that was flipping huge. The break was 12/15' in depth and about 35' long where the semi truck sized piece came off from a mere bocci ball sized rock hitting it. A much better approach alternative is to skirt that field on the left (there is a rib) and follow solid ground all the way to the left edge of the toe, step across the creek make the one 5.3/5.4 move up and then scramble to the new anchor chains at the start. I will add a photo later showing the current conditions of that snowfield. YIKES! Quote
mountainsloth Posted October 10, 2012 Posted October 10, 2012 yea, we walked on it only after checking out the snow tunnel. We actually approached the buttress the correct way but we were just playing around on the snow. I too heard plenty of snow breaking off it in the afternoon. Quote
rocketparrotlet Posted October 25, 2012 Posted October 25, 2012 This place looks incredible. I've never seen a crack like that p3 variation in Darrington before. Hopefully I'll be able to check it out over the summer. Quote
mattp Posted October 25, 2012 Posted October 25, 2012 (edited) This place looks incredible. I've never seen a crack like that p3 variation in Darrington before. Hopefully I'll be able to check it out over the summer. While cracks behind flakes are more common, there are straight in cracks on quite a few Darrington routes. Edited October 25, 2012 by mattp Quote
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