[TR] Three O Clock Rock – Penny Lane 8/31/2012

[curtveld]

Trip: Three O Clock Rock – Penny Lane

 

Date: 8/31/2012

 

Trip Report:

Here’s some stoke/beta for another under-appreciated Darrington gem.

 

Since Casey recently joined my Skagit basin employer, we vowed to climb together. He’d never climbed at Darrington, so we needed to fix that situation ASAP. All systems were good for Friday, so it was off to 3OC for the obligatory intro of Silent Running. After dispatching that, we popped a couple Gus, rapped to the start of Penny Lane and finished our day with a route I’d never done.

 

The beta: Another well-crafted Dtown slab option you can do as an alternative to the dike pitches of Total Soul or as a half-day route. It keeps your focus, as the steepness and difficulty increase with each pitch.

 

Pitches 1 (5.7) and 2 (5.8) wander up clean wavy stone. Bolt spacing (all 3/8") is typically around 20 feet, so a tad sporty for the novice slab leader, but not unreasonable. On pitch 2, you need a 1” cam for the overlap. It’s the only gear placement on the entire climb, but don’t forget it because it protects some cruxy moves.

 

Heading out on P2

 

Pitch 3 is the classic: A full rope of clean slab, it starts at 5.7 and steadily increases to around 10-. Smeary yes, but with enough scoops and little chicken-heads to keep you looking around. An awesome lead! 10 bolts.

 

Pitch 3, Casey making it look easy - with a top rope

 

Pitch 4 is steeper, more featured and a bit dirty. It has several 5.10 sequences, including the dark slab with the seam around mid-pitch. Whitelaw’s topo in Weekend Rock is spot-on, showing the crux at the last bolt traversing into the Total Soul belay. But “5.10c”? – I’d give it a 5.10++ (11a?). You can easily fudge it with bolt assistance if needed. If you bring a wire brush, you might discover another crimp and the 10c sequence that eluded me.

 

Pretty sure he'll be back

 

A fine day with an outstanding new partner! And the all-too-typical Darrington irony: Good access, gorgeous rock, perfect climbing weather and no other climbers.

 

Gear Notes:

10 clips, couple small cams, double ropes

Edited September 6, 2012 by curtveld

[JasonG]

Nice work Casey and Curt! Sounds like a link up I need to do this fall....

[Tyson.g]

Nice Curt!

 

[mountainsloth]

i climbed penny for the first time this year. the crux is definitely tricky but a hidden hold shows up if you look hard enough. Definitely worth doing if you have climbed all the others on the north butt

 

[Otto]

Thanks for the renewed stoke for this route! I got on it once with chucK, but we didn't finish it. Will soon! Thanks for all the info and good pix.