[TR] Boston Basin - Torment Forbidden Traverse 8/25/2012

[Eric T]

Trip: Boston Basin - Torment Forbidden Traverse

 

Date: 8/25/2012

 

Trip Report:

Chris Cox and I climbed the Torment Forbidden Traverse on the 25th and 26th of August. I saw the other recent trip report and post this TR so others can enjoy some photos and hear about the great vibe on the ridge last weekend.

We left the car just after 7am on Saturday morning and headed for Boston basin. The trail is a little overgrown but fine. Chris and I saw a small Black Bear at the 6200ft level just below the center of the traverse. The glacier under Mt. Torment was mellow and went fast delivering us to the ascent gulley, with no shrund, where we met Andrea belaying at the col and Amanda leading on rock above.

We continued climbing and met the Team of Jr Storms and Clive just below the Torment summit and joined them on top for views and hellos.

All three parties made it over to the notch to repel on to the ice below. The mood was light and everyone was having fun and enjoying the company. The others let Chris and I rap first which was very cool.

Chris and I moved past the first snow traverse and across the rock to the second snow traverse which is more serious than the first. We took a break to size it up and Jr and Clive came past us and rocked the second traverse. They kinda sandbagged it for me because they did it so fast. I later learned they are very experienced on the Ice and have done stuff like Liberty Ridge. Chris and I finished the traverse and started looking for a bivy site. We found a great platform that needed a little house cleaning and we were home.

In the morning Andrea and Amanda joined us for breakfast and refilled their water from the small pool Clive carved out of the ice. All three teams were stoked to have the sidewalk and the West Ridge in the day’s agenda. We left relaxed and staggered and enjoyed the climbing.

We again met at the notch and the summit of Forbidden. Jr and Clive chose to descend the ascent gully; I didn’t see them go that way but I could hear their voices below. (They later told us the gully was knar-bar and they should have rapped the other route.) We joined forces with the Ladies and decided to leap frog down the tat to the glacier in one of the gullies to skier’s right. This involved down climbing across third and fourth class rock with loose stuff. I was glad Jr and Clive weren’t below us because we were sending a lot of rock down. We finally rapped across the shrund and onto the ice which started the race for the BBQ caboose in Marblemount.

Jr. and Clive were already eating when we arrived and had told the Peeps we were coming and to wait, which they did to my great delight. They make a fabulous Beef Brisket Sandwich!

These two days were made special by stellar climbing in great weather but most of all by the incredible people we got to share this experience with.

Thanks Chris for an unforgettable weekend!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Single rack to 3, 60m rope, one ice ax, one ice tool, crampons and two snow pickets. Jr and Clive brought two ice tools each and no pickets. Andrea and Amanda brought one ice ax each, no pickets, and skipped the second snow traverse for the rock. All depends on your style.

 

Approach Notes:

Marblemount to Cascade Pass Rd to Boston Basin Trail Head.

Edited August 30, 2012 by Eric T

[YocumRidge]

Looks like very straightforward conditions, as I was hoping for . Thanks for the update.

 

How icy were the snow traverses? Soft enough for Alu crampons?

 

Did you approach via the South ridge or SE face of Torment?

 

 

[Eric T]

How icy were the snow traverses? Soft enough for Alu crampons?

 

Did you approach via the South ridge or SE face of Torment?

 

The first traverse was soft and easy, the second started mushy in the sunned portion but as you move to the north side it became firm snow then very firm snow. Your aluminum's will be fine.

Chris said "Those were the most solid snow pickets I've ever set."

 

We chose the South Ridge because the shrund under the south face looked wide, but I didn't actually poke my head in it or get a good view from above. The south face looked very climbable and fun.

Have fun up there! Your weather looks great.

Edited August 30, 2012 by Eric T

[JasonG]

It was fun watching all the teams cross the snow from the North Ridge bivy, and meet you guys on the way down! I will hopefully get a TR up from our NW face adventure in the next couple of days. Did you have to snap any pictures of us from your descent down the west ridge?

[Eric T]

Jason,

 

Great to hear from you. We did see a team on the North Ridge and I did snap some pics. Is this you?

Please post on your route with lots of good beta so we can climb it too.

 

 

[JasonG]

Nope that was Brian and his partner (forgot his name), we were right under your nose on the NW rib. We could hear everyone talking on the west ridge and summit, but folks were gone when we topped out at 1415 or so. I will get a TR up soon I hope!

[dougd]

Ok that cuts it. I'm quitting my job after this school year so my summer and fall next year are free to do some of these climbs.

 

Nice TR and pics Eric. Thanks.

 

d

[Raoul Duke]

Yes, as Eric reports, there was not much fun to be had in the snow couloir down from the Forbidden W. Ridge notch. I read jordansahl's TR from last week where he expressly said not to descend the snow and then... went ahead and descended the snow. Stellar, stellar decision-making up there. BTW, how does one (or can you) approach the West Ridge under current conditions?

 

Pictures of the crap:

 

 

 

 

...But it was great to share a beautiful route with you Eric, Chris, Amanda and Andrea!

Edited August 31, 2012 by Raoul Duke

[JasonG]

Mr. Duke-

 

You climb the "cat scratches" just west of the gully. The same way that Eric and Co. descended.

[Raoul Duke]

Thanks Jason. Are the cat scratches 3-4th class?

[JasonG]

5th for a pitch, then it eases to 3rd/4th to the notch.

[lisa]

Nice one Eric. Friends did that last year in similar conditions. I have to get that one done. Keep going!

[Jim]

Nice report - thanks. On the list. Do you mind clarifying your descent rap - not clear what you did from the summit - thanks.

 

We joined forces with the Ladies and decided to leap frog down the tat to the glacier in one of the gullies to skier’s right. This involved down climbing across third and fourth class rock with loose stuff.

[Eric T]

From the summit to the col is strait forward; either rap from obvious tat or down climb to save time to the col. To get to the glacier from the Forbidden's West Col one would walk down hill to the south and angle half right. In 75 meters you'll come to a draw or gully. Not to be confused with the ascent gully that would be to your left and have snow in it.

There is a piece of bright off yellow tat not to far down even thought you could scramble down 4th and third class stuff to the next tat and maybe the one after that. On the third or fourth rap you'll cross a vertical section of cliff with no tat at the bottom. You go to rapplers right in a gully and scramble down to the last tat that gets you across the shrund and onto the glacier.

IMHO this decent is the most dangerous place on the route. Multiple parties rapping at the same time through the tat is an invitation for trouble. There's lots of loose rock and it's easy to get it moving underfoot or with the rope.

Edited September 2, 2012 by Eric T