papasherpa Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Ok, so here is my scenario/question: We are climbing Mt. Baker on the 7-9th of July and Rainier on the 13-15th of July. I am thinking about taking my GoLite Shangra-La 3 person tent (with floor) as my tent. I have extra guy-lines, snow pegs for anchoring. Thus, has anyone used this tent (or a similar light-weight pyramid style shelter) to climb Rainier? My friend and guide (who only has used expedition style tents) is not sure of my decision....so I thought I would ask if anyone out there has some insight to offer me. PapaSherpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fromage Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 I have used the Black Diamond Lighthouse tent (similar to Firstlight, but larger) on both Baker and Rainier. Even when guyed out with rocks at Camp Schurman that tent did not hold up in the wind as well as my Bibler Eldorado does. It was tolerable, but not exactly confidence inspiring. That said, I would do it again because carrying a 3+ pound tent to high camp on Rainier or Baker (instead of a 5+ pound single wall or 9+ pound expedition tent) is worth the wind stability tradeoff. Check the forecast before you go. I have also spent a lot of time in the older Mountain Hardwear Kiva and Dana Designs Nuktuk, which are single-pole, pyramid type tents. I've used those at 13,000' in winter conditions in Wyoming and found that a really high wind will flatten them, even if guyed. If you have a calm forecast for your volcano trips then I think you will be comfortable in your tent. Depending on your campsite on Rainier you can sometimes find wind walls constructed by previous climbers, i.e. Ingraham Flats. The sturdiest tent on the mountain, however, is the public hut at Muir, and since that is already there you don't have to carry it. Just bring earplugs. If you're climbing the Easton side of Baker the high camp area at ~6,500' is sheltered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaiLarson Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 These guys had a floorless pyramid tent: http://www.summitpost.org/hell-on-liberty-ridge/205062 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 (edited) I've used my BD Betamid, a floorless shelter, on Rainier and Baker many times. July typically has very stable weather. Invest in some parachute style MH sand/snow anchors. If the weather is bad enough to flatten a well staked and guyed out floorless shelter you should go home anyway. Edited May 16, 2012 by DPS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papasherpa Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 Thanks for the insight everyone. I am hoping to climb to 9200’ on the Wilson Glacier - make camp, ascend the Fuhrer Finger to summit, then descend the Kautz Glacier route back to the High Camp. In theory anyhow, depending on conditions as it gets closer. If not, we will go up Dissapointment Cleaver from Muir. It is interesting and fun for me, I have 1000's of miles of hiking experince and 0 of mountaineering. This is quite an adventure for me. It is ALWAYS good to humbly ask everyone for their insight. Any other thoughts would be appreciated. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 (edited) I camped on the Wilson with BD a Betamid to climb Wilson Glacier Headwall, ended up climbing Fuhrer Thumb. Only complaint is we left the shovel at home and slept on a poorly constructed platform built with our ice axes. Bring a shovel to level a proper platform and to build snow walls in case of high winds to help protect the shelter. You can take down the center pole when you leave for the day and pile snow blocks on top to keep high winds from blowing anything down or away. Descending the Kautz makes little sense. Why not descend the Fuhurer Finger? The Kautz can actully be more difficult to descend than the Finger, particualarly as the season progresses. I've climbed and descended both routes, the Finger is more direct and less steep. I was on the mountain once when a party ascended the Kautz and decided it was too difficult to descend so they went down the DC and tried to PAY the climbing rangers to retrieve their camp. Edited May 18, 2012 by DPS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrix Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 On the Kautz direct in '08 our guide used a MegaMid. Our 11K camp was sorta exposesd and it was very windy. The 'Mid held up with the help of some snow walls. However the guide said he got no sleep because he was worrying about it so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 As others have mentioned, it all depends on the weather. If it isn't horribly windy, a lightweight shelter will work fine and save you a lot of weight. If it is horribly windy, you'll either want a burlier shelter, or just decide to go down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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