Jeff W Posted May 15, 2012 Posted May 15, 2012 So I have been reading all the posts about ice above the Pearly Gates, using ice screws, running belays, yada yada. I will be flying home mid-June (Tri-Cities) and planned a quick climb of Hood during that trip. Problem is I don't own an ice tool. I have not needed one on Rainier, Shuksan, Baker, others; not sure what is the story with Mt Hood. Are the stories about women summiting in high heals and dogs prancing to the summit just bullshit? Please advise - I may need to place my order for an ice tool. Quote
DPS Posted May 15, 2012 Posted May 15, 2012 I think the Pearly Gates can easily be avoided by following the 'Old Chute' variation climber's left of the Pearly Gates. Only one tool should be necessary for this variation. I haven't been there for a while though. Quote
Water Posted May 15, 2012 Posted May 15, 2012 just to confirm DPS statement. if you just want to get to the top you do not need a 2nd tool or ice tools etc. research the route (old chute) and you'll get confirmation Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 15, 2012 Posted May 15, 2012 I think the Pearly Gates can easily be avoided by following the 'Old Chute' variation climber's left of the Pearly Gates. Only one tool should be necessary for this variation. I haven't been there for a while though. As a note, the Pearly Gates used to be standard and did not require a tool or be that steep, but in recent years the Hogsback shifted away from this feature and it changed. That's why the Old Chute is standard now. Quote
ivan Posted May 15, 2012 Posted May 15, 2012 little old ladies in woolen knickers managed the hood-mord-wand w/ mere alpenstocks in the grand old days of fuck-ever, so there's no honor to be had in even an axe that said, i usually have a 2nd tool for even the dog route, if only for the training weight and the added security after guzzling a 5th of peppermint schnapps upon the summit Quote
Jeff W Posted May 15, 2012 Author Posted May 15, 2012 Thanks for the advice. I may end up buying a 2nd tool; I will probably need one at some point anyway. Quote
DPS Posted May 15, 2012 Posted May 15, 2012 If you do get a second tool, I have seen a number of Charlet Moser Pulsar and Grivel straight shafted hammers for sale here and there. That would be an inexpensive way to go and would be plenty technical for your needs. Maybe check out Second Ascent's selection when you roll into town. Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 15, 2012 Posted May 15, 2012 If you do get a second tool, I have seen a number of Charlet Moser Pulsar and Grivel straight shafted hammers for sale here and there. That would be an inexpensive way to go and would be plenty technical for your needs. Maybe check out Second Ascent's selection when you roll into town. I have a BD Venom and like it. Quote
Pwelco Posted May 16, 2012 Posted May 16, 2012 Didn't see hardly anyone with a second tool on the Old Chute Route and there was a dog on the summit last Saturday! A second/ice tool is not required but certainly much safer when doing the Gates with hard blue ice for a short 15ft section/2ft step. My ice axe is not sharpened as most aren't and it would not dig into the ice unless swung like an ice tool. The yada yada ice screws and running belays are for protecting those that have never climbed before... Nice piece of mind for them knowing they are attached to the mountain and for the lead climber not knowing if they will yank him/her off. If you ever lead a newbie and want to protect them like maybe, if he's your son and your wife would kill you if he didn't come back, might be a good idea... If you look at the photos of the women summiting in high heels you'll also see very little snow and I am sure no ice. They of course were risking the opposite problem of falling rock late in the summer. I'll take the cold temps personally when those killers are frozen in the ice. Heck, buy two tools for the ice climbing you'll eventually want to do anyway and then you can lend one to your partner on mountaineering days Quote
Jeff W Posted May 16, 2012 Author Posted May 16, 2012 If that frickin dog can summit without a second/ice tool so can I! Actually, I need to break down and spring for two ice tools. Last August I borrowed two tools and spent a day ice climbing in the cravasses on lower Emmons at Camp Shurman. I can see it being easy getting hooked on ice climbing - and would be easier to do if I had my own gear. Quote
Pwelco Posted May 18, 2012 Posted May 18, 2012 E-Bay is a great place to buy a set of tools at half the price of new. There are those with money to burn that buy the new stuff every year and sell the set that is only one season or two old, got mine there. Ice tools as you know are hard to damage, kind of like buying a used hammer. I will be heading up the Old Chute/Mazama route on June 2nd but choose to leave my dog at home. Have fun on your climb and your right, the dog up there had no ice axe at all! Quote
pioneerian Posted May 20, 2012 Posted May 20, 2012 TR for the Old Chute http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1068791 Pearly Gates did have some pretty good ice last week. I would have used a screw if I had one. Went through the chute instead. Quote
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