Pwelco

Headed up to the Gorge in search of some ice climbing yesterday. More of a search and find and take photos since it was a late start. I have posted the pics on my Facebook page with some details if interested, blow is the link This one is near Mirror Lake at the Rooster Rock Park exit off of 84. Nice!!

A new full insert for your Invernos can lighten them quite a bit, they did mine and are a lot warmer and more comfortable. Still one of the best boots out there. I have a set of Kayland M11's that I like but colder weather can leave me wishing I had worn my Scarpas...

E-Bay is a great place to buy a set of tools at half the price of new. There are those with money to burn that buy the new stuff every year and sell the set that is only one season or two old, got mine there. Ice tools as you know are hard to damage, kind of like buying a used hammer. I will be heading up the Old Chute/Mazama route on June 2nd but choose to leave my dog at home. Have fun on your climb and your right, the dog up there had no ice axe at all!

Didn't see hardly anyone with a second tool on the Old Chute Route and there was a dog on the summit last Saturday! A second/ice tool is not required but certainly much safer when doing the Gates with hard blue ice for a short 15ft section/2ft step. My ice axe is not sharpened as most aren't and it would not dig into the ice unless swung like an ice tool. The yada yada ice screws and running belays are for protecting those that have never climbed before... Nice piece of mind for them knowing they are attached to the mountain and for the lead climber not knowing if they will yank him/her off. If you ever lead a newbie and want to protect them like maybe, if he's your son and your wife would kill you if he didn't come back, might be a good idea... If you look at the photos of the women summiting in high heels you'll also see very little snow and I am sure no ice. They of course were risking the opposite problem of falling rock late in the summer. I'll take the cold temps personally when those killers are frozen in the ice. Heck, buy two tools for the ice climbing you'll eventually want to do anyway and then you can lend one to your partner on mountaineering days

Last Saturday the snow was still pretty firm when we left the Hogs Back at 9AM but people were both skiing and boarding from there (There were ski/board tracks from summit as well) and it looked like they were having no troubles. I would certainly take a good wax though for soft snow for down lower as it is painfully slow/sticky lower down below Palmer after the suns been on it a while.

Updated...

Went up through the gates (left) last Saturday the 12th of May. The shrund had a bridge in the middle so went straight up the Hogs Back then traversed over to the Pearly Gates. A couple other groups ahead were going the Old Chute route so wanted to avoid the fall line. The traverse was hard pack/ice with very little steps for about 20 yards so I placed 3 pickets until we were under the Gates where the steps got bigger. I haven't seen the left/West Gate open (looking up) for several years due to ice but this year is nice with only about a 15ft section of blue ice, an axe and a tool is what the three of us used and were thankful to have something in both hands. I also placed two ice screws (had 3) but there were others that had a guide that climbed up first and belayed from above. The three of us simi climbed up through using a running belay. Went back down the same way belaying my two climbers from above the ice patch down to a nice shelf that has an overhang you can protect under if desired. There was no falling ice or rock at least up until we left the area around 9AM. Pics can be had at two locations https://picasaweb.google.com/100708915293213926786/MtHoodClimb Cheers and headin back on June 2nd Some couldn't get to the links so..... On the Traverse over to the Gates Heading up through the left chute of the Pearly Gates. About a 15 foot icy section here a screw or two is nice to have along! Belaying my buds up through the Gates Hittin easier ground rounding out up to the summit Summit photo looking East Summit ridge that leads to the Old Chute or Mazama Route as its called. Yes there is a dog on the summit! Happy Days! Can you see why I opted for the Pearly Gates?? Which way would you go? Take an extra tool so you have the option to avoid the crowds but not on June 2nd please Cheers, Paul

Went up through the gates (left) last Saturday the 12th of May. The shrund had a bridge in the middle so went straight up the Hogs Back then traversed over to the Pearly Gates. A couple other groups ahead were going the Old Chute route so wanted to avoid the fall line. The traverse was hard pack/ice with very little steps for about 20 yards so I placed 3 pickets until we were under the Gates where the steps got bigger. I haven't seen the left/West Gate open (looking up) for several years due to ice but this year is nice with only about a 15ft section of blue ice, an axe and a tool is what the three of us used and were thankful to have something in both hands. I also placed two ice screws (had 3) but there were others that had a guide that climbed up first and belayed from above. The three of us simi climbed up through using a running belay. Went back down the same way belaying my two climbers from above the ice patch down to a nice shelf that has an overhang you can protect under if desired. There was no falling ice or rock at least up until we left the area around 9AM. Pics can be had at two locations https://picasaweb.google.com/100708915293213926786/MtHoodClimb Cheers and headin back on June 2nd

Went up through the gates (left) last Saturday the 12th of May. The shrund had a bridge in the middle so went straight up the Hogs Back then traversed over to the Pearly Gates. A couple other groups ahead were going the Old Chute route so wanted to avoid the fall line. The traverse was hard pack/ice with very little steps for about 20 yards so I placed 3 pickets until we were under the Gates where the steps got bigger. I haven't seen the left/West Gate open (looking up) for several years due to ice but this year is nice with only about a 15ft section of blue ice, an axe and a tool is what the three of us used and were thankful to have something in both hands. I also placed two ice screws (had 3) but there were others that had a guide that climbed up first and belayed from above. The three of us simi climbed up through using a running belay. Went back down the same way belaying my two climbers from above the ice patch down to a nice shelf that has an overhang you can protect under if desired. There was no falling ice or rock at least up until we left the area around 9AM. Pics can be had at two locations https://picasaweb.google.com/100708915293213926786/MtHoodClimb Cheers and headin back on June 2nd

Cat openings still available... paul@cascadeclimbs.com

Last minute cancelations of the four seats available are back up for grabs. Had another two drop out due to illness so now have 6 open seats. If you'd like to join I can be reached at paul@cascadeclimbs.com and will check it until 9PM tonight. Fee is 35ea. Thx, Paul

CAT spots have been filled so thank you!!

Calling all Mount Hood climbers, A quick note for those that don't wish to hike up a ski run, we have seats available on the snow cat this Saturday May 12th at 2AM. At this time we have 4 seats available. If you are interested I can be contacted at paul@cascadeclimbs.com. The entire cat fee this year is a crazy $500.00 bucks!! so the seats are 35 bucks ea. The cat holds 12 plus gear but these 4 will still leave seats available for breathing room, our team is down to 5 Cheers, Pwelco

Calling all Mount Hood climbers, A quick note for those that don't wish to hike up a ski run, we have seats available on the snow cat this Saturday May 12th at 2AM. At this time we have 4 seats available. If you are interested I can be contacted at paul@cascadeclimbs.com. The entire cat fee this year is a crazy $500.00 bucks!! so the seats are 35 bucks ea. The cat holds 12 plus gear but these 4 will still leave seats available for breathing room, our team is down to 5 Cheers, Pwelco

Yup we went on Saturday 8-02 and climbed Sunday 8-03. Bet this weekend was good also. Looking forward to maybe hitting 3 Finger in a couple weeks for a day.

Trip: Mt Jefferson - Jefferson Park Glacier Route Date: 8/03/2008 Trip Report: OK jfreeburg Here ya go from Paul something or other A long awaited trip to Mt Jefferson finally falls into place, partner gets sick at the bivy site so is not heading up, bummer! I decide to go solo due to another group of 3 heading up the glacier 2 from Seattle and 1 from Corvallis I will soon get to know as Mike, Jim and Dave (Hope memory serves). Anyway perfect snow conditions and no wind set up for a great day of climbing!! Crevasses seem to be mostly exposed so travel was good on the glacier. The first schrund was easily skirted around the left or as I found a step across about 3-4ft of void and ice climb out about 8ft finding solid tool placements got the blood flowing thats for sure. The second schrund was a different matter in that the left was all the way over to a rock face so off to the right the group ahead of me headed to find about a 6ft wide snow patch at about 60-65 degrees. Unfortunately this gets the sun first thing on the Jefferson Park Glacier route so the snow was somewhat soft in most places with some nice rock hand holds along the way. A tool and alpine axe worked good here for myself. Gaining the Col between Mohler Tooth and Smith rock we got the trade from soft snow to loose rock. From here there is a knife edge ridge leads you over to join the North ridge route. Although very exposed on both sides this class 5 climbing has great hand holds and mostly good rock in comparison to the Pinnacle. Once on the North Ridge its an easy walk over to the base of the Pinnacle. At the base of the Pinnacle you have a choice to go straight up or as the guide books say traverse right about 50 yards. The other group headed up and I traversed after putting my crampons back on. In the end it would have been easier to go up without the traverse. On the summit we traded pictures and yes Jim left his camera he announced later in the parking lot, none of us was willing to go back for it as returning via the white water glacier was a long way and now the 4 of us have seen every side of Jefferson getting back to camp. 3 raps off the West face of the Pinnacle (had to cut my rope due to a snag and not worth risking your hind end) put us back to the traverse over to the Red Saddle and on our merry (looooonnnng) way back to camp and then out to the rigs where these nice gents treated us to a beer where my bud was waiting for me. Am having some trouble adding pics so here is a link (I think) to mine on Flikr, sorry guys but I didn't get many of ya'll but have not uploaded all of them yet. http://www.flickr.com/photos/29389759@N02/ Cheers ya'll and on to another adventure!! Pwelco Gear Notes: Rope for rap, one nut (left) for a short rap, 2 ice tools and an alpine axe (could have used only one tool but would have had to climb around the first schrund) Approach Notes: Some snow on the PCT led to some wandering around looking for the trail but pretty easy to follow yet

Weather looks to be turning for you, be safe and yes dig the hole to see whats what!

Ya, The guidein the other group right next to us dug one on the East facing slope and the Southern facing. WWent down about 2 feet to a layer of hard stuff. The Western facing slide off but the Southern stayed put. For that reason we stayed off the Mazama route and went for the steeper ice and rock. Good point to those heading up there, Thanks!

Well, to be honest we rode the cat up to the top of Palmer trying to give the group the best chance for a summit (been there done that on the long hike up Palmer) but started off in over shin deep powder from there. Even with the cat it took 15 hours to get back to the car. It went waist deep just below Crater Rock and around until the Hogs Back. Hope to not see that again any time soon! We'll be back for another go with a couple new guys on the 16th and 17th of this month though from the parking lot for an over nighter. Hope the temps change for some hard surface cramponing up there. I have some photos coming from this trip in a couple days to post so check back.

Trip: Mt. Hood South Side - Pearly Gates Deviation Date: 5/3/2008 Trip Report: Having waited all year for the chance to take a trip, I had been watching the weather for days and it seemed like a reasonable choice to go for the summit the AM of Sat. the 3rd. We started off in snowing contitions and a white out, not a good start but hey its the south side and hard to get lost after 13 or 14 times right? Trying to follow a faint set of tracks we had to break trail as we are the first tracks up there today. We ended up at the edge of the White River Canyon. Oops, can't see anything but blackness. We turned left coming up to Crater Rock in the dark. Hey where is that shelf before Crater Rock to rest at? Oh well keep going through deeper snow around the right side of Crater Rock, man this breaking trail stuff is tough, should have maybe started a little later right? Heck no, keep going!! As we were nearing the Hogs Back it was still dark yet at least the snowing had stopped and no wind to speak of the whole way up so far. Trudging through waste deep powder, where the heck is that Hogs Back as I keep looking up hoping it would appear in the darkness. Finally I see it, the lip is right there only 15 more feet having to pack down snow for each inch we are finally on the hogs back with another couple groups blitzing up behind us, how nice for them (and me every other time I have gone! )! Finally getting light we can at times see up the Hogs Back as the clouds blow through. The Pearly Gates look crazy, the Hogs Back doesn't even aim that way. It has formed towards the west a little and there is no shelf leading over to it. One of the other groups heads up the Hogs Back, sweet, let them break trail for a bit! The three of us wait to see about the shrund and what the heck are they going to do about getting up there? I'm thinking Mazama Route to the left but with some heavy snow there has been groups in the past that have had trouble with avalanches in these conditions, sure wish it was colder so we were on more icy conditions! The other group has a guide who assesses the conditions to find about a 2ft layer ready for a slab avalanch. They skirt around the shrund only having to go about 10 feet or so off the Hogs Back then back again. Slightly above that he holds his group and and checks the conditions again for avalanch, I see them put on there harnesses so off we go up the Hogs Back. The guide ventures out to look at the gully that has formed below the Pearly Gates which is full of powder up to his neck so he heads up to check the gully directly in line with the HB. Its about 5ft wide, we catch his group as he enters and then down climbs back to the group saying its a no go, not what they are looking for as its mixed climbing rock and ice , they head out and we are alone with only a 2 man group behind us and they are done too! I'm thinking to myself maybe there is a reason we are the only ones up here, we shouldn't be! Well, having talked to a guy who had summited 2 weeks prior he told me they went the Pearly Gates and used two pickets and an ice screw, I had strapped on three screws and 3 pickets so we had the gear, heck lets see whats around that corner up in that gully, I head up there, he was right it is mixed climbing with little ice and just rock with powder on it for about 10 feet then I found some thicker ice allowing a couple screws for a belay I bring up my two guys to the base of the gully. They belay me from there and I ice climb up through the gully and to the left to find a nice pearch and belay them to me. I keep the belay and send them higher up to see where to go from here they go a ropes length to another shelf and belay me to them where hey I see the summit and no tracks either, thats a first! With one more pitch we are on the summit ridge and glad to be half way and heading down way too late. Back the way we came I leave a picket above the ice gully (have at it!) we get back to the HB and feel much better. All in all a great day but feel like we got away with something being one of only two groups to summit (the other went up the Mazama Route with no issues)! Gear Notes: 3 pickets and 3 ice screws, rope of coarse and two tools instead of ice axe Approach Notes: Deep powder

I have been trying to get up Jefferson the past 4 years and would love to go (My regular partner lives in Minn of all places and doesn't get out here much). 4 years ago i went into the base of the Jefferson glacier but had my dog and no climbing gear, I watched as a couple guys disappeared into the mist heading up the glacier and wished I was with them. I have been up Mt. Washington as well as a few other Cascade climbs, am an Oregon EMT with all my own gear. Let me know your plans as the time nears. Cheers and Happy New Year!!

All full on the Mt. Hood Cat climbing trip