ivan Posted May 14, 2012 Posted May 14, 2012 the wife and kids are heading back east next month and i get about a month off work to go play in the valley - my would-be partner's life got all fucked up though, and i'm back to square 1. i'm free starting june 21 and don't have to be back 'round portland till july 19. mostly interested in big wall routes, and likely will meet some friends down there for the last 2 weeks of my window, so don't need a partner for all that time. had been planning on the nose, but really anythign on el cap would be cool. still need to climb half dome. help a brother out, eh? Quote
kevbone Posted May 14, 2012 Posted May 14, 2012 Why don't you go spend time with the wife and kids and forget this selfish thing called climbing? Quote
ivan Posted May 15, 2012 Author Posted May 15, 2012 have you been to virginia and/or tennessee in july homeboy? come to the valley w/ me 'bone! bring pink! Quote
Buckaroo Posted May 15, 2012 Posted May 15, 2012 Not sure you want to be climbing on the south facing valley routes (Nose) in June July, pretty hot. The Valley is the easiest place to hook up with strangers. I climbed 76 pitches in 6 days, different person every day. Quote
ivan Posted May 15, 2012 Author Posted May 15, 2012 yeah, gotta work w/ the dates i have off - last summer it was perfect conditions during that window - the summer before that it alright, and the first summer weapons-grade retard hot never tried the show-up-solo trip but sure like to have someone along for the drive and to not lose time trying to figure the partner out... Quote
Buckaroo Posted May 15, 2012 Posted May 15, 2012 Dammit, I wanna do the Nose, maybe I'll just quit work... Quote
mattp Posted May 15, 2012 Posted May 15, 2012 You can do OK picking up a partner. If they are not up to the task you should be able to figure that out by Sickle Ledge and it is an easy bail. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted May 15, 2012 Posted May 15, 2012 Why not try something new and not risk dying of heat exhaustion and trying to avoid the man? You done made it up half the walls in Yosemite already! Squamish has TONS of rad lookin aid routes, as does the Diamond, Buggaboos or any of those more summerish destinations, maybe Black Canyon? Mt Hooker looks rad but is like 20 miles back and probably hard! Go do Dolomite Tower on Barring! Quote
ivan Posted May 15, 2012 Author Posted May 15, 2012 nah tyler, haven't even really scraped the surface, i feel - yet to do a real el cap route, and haven't touch half dome - your other ideas are cool of course, but still boil down to finding a partner who can rummage around for much of the time - the nice thing about the valley is the density of cool shit to do (assuming its not africa-hot), as well as having largely figured out all the logistical bullshit. happy to wander up into canuckistan or elsewhere if'n anybody's hot for that. Quote
mattp Posted May 15, 2012 Posted May 15, 2012 I don't remember who it was that is quoted with this advice, Ivan, but some famous climber once said the best time to go do a climb is the time you can go to do it. July may not be "recommended" for the Captain, but if that is your season it is the best season for you. People climb it in the heart of summer every year, I bet. The Bugs' are more than cool, though. If you get the weather. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted May 15, 2012 Posted May 15, 2012 nah tyler, haven't even really scraped the surface, i feel - yet to do a real el cap route, and haven't touch half dome - your other ideas are cool of course, but still boil down to finding a partner who can rummage around for much of the time - the nice thing about the valley is the density of cool shit to do (assuming its not africa-hot), as well as having largely figured out all the logistical bullshit. happy to wander up into canuckistan or elsewhere if'n anybody's hot for that. wait wait wait... last time I checked the Trip was on El Cap. IMO I'd consider that way more of a route than The Nose! Someone said, once you've done one, you've basically done them all... But yeah I bet you would be a lot more prone to find a partner more willing to head up to Canada than head into an oven. Either way you go a month off will be hard to beat! Though you could still go to the East Coast with the wife and kids Quote
ivan Posted May 15, 2012 Author Posted May 15, 2012 when you gonna be healthy enough again for such mundane things, boy-o? Quote
corvallisclimb Posted May 15, 2012 Posted May 15, 2012 Good question! I did just have hernia surgery a couple days ago, so I'm one step closer! Hell, maybe I'll try do a wall again this Fall or something... Though kinda more enchanted with Fisher Towers stuff than The Ditch right now... keeping finger crossed antibiotics will kill disease!!!! Now back to Ivan's partner search.... Quote
ivan Posted May 15, 2012 Author Posted May 15, 2012 i'll be game for the fisher towers n' all that desert crazyiness soon as i find a partner Quote
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