[TR] Mt Hood, OR - Eliot Glacier Headwall Direct Variation 5/5/2012

[rocknrolla]

Trip: Mt Hood, OR - Eliot Glacier Headwall Direct Variation

 

Date: 5/5/2012

 

Trip Report:

This weekend we decided to try the Eliot Glacier route up the north side of Mt. Hood. The conditions had looked good all week, and Anastasia and I had made up our minds to go. Our plan was to camp at the summit if the weather looked favorable, then descend the NW slope to about 10,400 ft, and traverse northeast until the base of the Eliot Headwall.

 

There was a slight avalanche concern on the lower angle southern slopes as the days sun melted them out, such as the entrance to the Old Chute or the Pearly Gates from the Hogsback, so we decided we would cross this section in the early morning to avoid the melt out on the way up, and hope to be back through the area of question by noon. The plan had been formulated and I was excited to finally get a chance to climb a technical route on Hood with Anastasia, as we had been waiting for the chance for several months now. I have little alpine ice experience, and the headwall was supposedly 60 degree snow and ice, with the possibility of a rock pitch depending on snow coverage- very exciting! I left for Oregon from Seattle at 5:30 am on Saturday morning, and met Anastasia and Oleg at the Starbucks in Gresham at 9. Her friend Oleg had decided to join us, and we loaded our gear into his car and headed for the Timberline Lodge. Approaching the mountain, we noticed the snow line was pretty low, and clouds obscured the peak from our view. We parked and went into the Lodge to register, catching glimpses of Hood as the morning fog burned off. As Anastasia filled out the paperwork, Oleg and I read the conditions report scrolling down the monitor. There was new snow in the last 24 hrs of 1-2 meters, and there was still an avalanche warning in effect for the weekend on sun-exposed slopes. We discussed the conditions and decided that we were going to at least attempt our route, and resolved to be wary of conditions. We left for the summit around 11 am and kept a steady pace past the lift lines. The Palmer lift wasn't running, and as we reached the top of the lift we found out why- 25ft snow drifts had almost completely covered the last couple towers! We stopped for a quick bite to eat, and pushed onwards. We were now above the clouds and could look outward to the peaks south of us, and that crowded feeling given by hiking the liftline had faded. We stopped briefly to admire the pillars and ice floes of Illumination Rock. The ice wasn't really in, but the rock actually looked pretty solid and climbable by Hood standards... something to check out! We climbed onwards towards the crater below the summit block and soon looked up towards the summit to see a cloud bank moving in, obscuring our view above the crater. I looked around me and saw clouds moving in on all sides. "Let's just get to the hogsback and camp there" Anastasia said, and Oleg and I agreed. We kept moving and eventually got to the short steep section before the hogsback near the craters edge. As we took off our snowshoes and found a place to stash them for the return trip, the clouds began to dissipate, the sun slowly returning. To get to the hogsback was one of the hardest parts of the approach. We fought through 2 meters of snow to the top of the ridgeline, and after some discussion, we made camp on a flat spot tucked away to the south of the hogsback surrounded by sulfur vents. The sun was almost obscured by the false summit at this point, and in anticipation of high winds, Oleg set to work building a snow wall while Anastasia and I set up the tent. In an hour or so we had finished setting up camp and took some time to drink in the amazing views of the sunset over the rime ice spires surrounding the south-side summit.

We went to sleep around sunset, and awoke at 2 am. We were slow getting out of bed however, and harnesses weren't on til about 3:30. Oleg lead the way up through the Pearly Gates in the dark.

We traversed the snow bridge over the berguschrund and fought through heavy snow below the gates that turned to a thick layer of rime ice on the way up the chutes. It was miserable. I was stiff from a cold morning start and kicking through the shards of rime ice was a rude awakening. I made note of the deep snow on the lower slope and decided the Gates would not be our choice on the way down tomorrow afternoon. Our goal was to be off the summit block at noon, thereby minimizing any danger of slides. The Old Chute would be a better choice on the way down. We reached the summit at around 5 am and began the walk down Cathedral Ridge. We descended to just above the Horseshoe Rock, at 10,400 ft., and stopped to get a glimpse of our route.

It looked amazing- the snow was well compacted, and the sun was just rising, casting shadows from Cathedral Ridge across the Eliot Headwall. We all saw a clear line of nice ice running for quite a ways up the headwall, so we went for it. We traversed, dropping below to 10,200 to roughy the middle of the headwall and past two rock outcroppings to the south of the traverse. Oleg lead this as well, and set an anchor in the ice floes. Anastasia was incredibly pumped to be able to do her lead section in such perfect conditions, and she soon tied into the sharp end and started up the first pitch of the climb, which parallelled an arete-like outcropping of volcanic choss. She climbed with most of our 60m rope, and Oleg and I tied in between 20m of rope. She found a good spot to set anchors and brought us up. The ice was superb, you could just run right up it! Anastasia lead a second pitch using mostly screws, and again, when I got on the ice it was amazing. Towards the top of this pitch there was some transitioning to alpine ice and hardpack snow, but nothing you couldn't feel safe kick-stepping in. The next anchor was set right above the spine of rock directly below the obvious exit gully. Said gully had no snow and what looked like mud at 60+ degrees. A rock band stood in our path otherwise, and we chose the best route from where we stood, and I went off to investigate. I climbed quite a ways through hard pack, then set a picket. I moved up towards the rock, and suddenly the 5..3 we projected turned into quite some steep and interesting climbing. I had the choice of a blocky and vertical climb leading to a ridgeline that looked like steep snow, or a tapered stemming move in a right facing corner that looked pretty hard. Above the rock, however, looked more promising to my eye in terms of out exit. The snow looked decent above and the rock kind of followed that it, so I decided to check it out. I put in a #2 in a nice crack near the base of the climb, then began stemming up in my crampons . I placed a #.75 in a nice horizontal shelf of fairly solid rock, and looking up I realized I would need to do like this mantle hand-foot match thing and let my tools go to use my hands. In the process of doing this one of my tools became free of the unbilicals. It just stuck in the ice at the base of the climb! Whew! I shouted to my friends to pick it up on their way up, and moved on up with one tool. It actually worked out perfectly, because I was able to use the other tool above the akward stems on a tiny and really steep couloir of water ice, while my other hand and foot were on what was fairly solid rock. The big regret here is that I had left the screws with Anastasia. We thought it would be snow above, and the rock was unprotectable, so while I enjoyed this interesting route I was very, very happy to get to my anchor spot at the top of the couloir in steep alpine ice.. I slammed two pickets and found them to be bomber anchor points. I also tethered myself to my ice axe and anchored it deep as well. I knew that the system was good, however I was a little nervous there would be a fall, as I estimated the rock moves at 5.7, so I hitched myself to the anchor so as to provide no shockload to the system in case of a sharp pull. I yelled "On Belay" and they started climbing. I kept the belay pretty tight. The quickly cleaned the pickets and they came up to the rock. It was a tense moment as I waited around the corned in the couloir from them, waiting to arrest a fall. The two made it up with a couple of takes. Oleg was exclaiming words of excitement as he came out of the couloir to the anchor. He crushed the couloir! Anastasia was thrlled as well, but we all decided the best choice was to get to the summit right away, so I lead a running belay with two pickets up through hard snow to to the summit. While I belayed the others up a couple of people walked by and started chatting to me. I asked them about the conditions of the Old Chute. He said they were good, and sure enough, there was a bootpack all across the summit ridge where there were none when we had last seen it. The other side of the ridge looked balmy and beautiful, in an almost tropical haze. Our camp sat down below , the busy ski area down below. And out to every side, Mountains! Excellent! We summited at 12:30, and started the route at 8:30. We hung out at camp, broke down, then went back down the long snowshoe (UGH) slog to the base of the timberline lodge, arriving around 6. This was an excellent route, and I would reccomend it or any of the other couloirs that happen to be in over there. The north side has killer ice and there are many different lines through couloirs and short but fairly stable rock pitches to the stepp and fun headwall summit exposure. WOW! PS I CANT LOAD PHOTOS RIGHT NOW< I WILL EDIT IN LATER>

[

 

 

Gear Notes:

Pro Used- 5 ice screws, 4 pickets, a #2 and a #.75 camalot

 

Approach Notes:

It makes the most sense to go over the top from the south to get to this one! But brink some ski's would you?

[ivan]

about time

[OlegV]

Well, here is my version of the story… Our trip was a blast by

any means. A day before, the old crippled gipsy told us to

kick some serious mountain ass and get the Eliot headwall

done even if we have to lose a person or two in the process.

The stars and the moon were properly aligned, the weather was

good, the snow was still white, and our spirits were hopeful

and strong. To ensure our glorious victory on the mountain,

the Andy-5.11-no-gear-climbing-machine was added to the team,

not to mention Nastia’s skills as a steep-ice-runner, which

makes her more similar to a spider-woman than to a regular

mortal “let’s-go-shopping-honey” flat-lander. I was and am a

wise-man, a commander in chief, a cautious critic of the REI

equipment, and the inventor of a babushka-style insolation (50

cents) for boringly-designed Scarpa mountaineering boots. We

also invented a head-to-toe sleeping style - highly recommend

for space saving...

 

Perfect design...

 

The snow conditions were soft, but we were insistently

breaking our trail, sometimes plowing through waist deep

powder, to the base camp at the toe of the Hog’s Back. The

snow castle was erected to protect a high-tech Nastia’s tent

from NOAA-promised 20 mile/h winds.

 

Snow shelter

 

Our plan ingeniously designed by Nastia and her climbing

friend Dane was to spend a night at the Hog’s back, climb to

the summit early morning, down-climb (hike) the Cathedral

ridge to the prominent flat spot, traverse the Eliot glacier

to the base of the headwall, and go up from there.

 

Summit shot

 

On the Cathedral ridge

 

Suffice to mention, a nightmarish climb through the Pearly

Gates, shaky traverse through the (amazingly non-steep) Eliot

glacier, and excellent snow conditions at the base of the

headwall.

 

Nastia leading WI3, pitch1

 

Nastia approaching the rockband

 

We are now approaching the crux of our story, which will add

our names to the history of local mountaineers. I wonder why

people don’t climb this route more often. It reminded me the

North face of the Chair peak: the moderate water and alpine

ice, good protection, amazing views, multiple rock options,

not too long. The rock band is composed off not too bad of

the rock. Andy was able to place a couple of solid pieces as

he led his lucky pitch through the vomiting narrowness of

the “twisted neck” slot. Welcome to a newly re-discovered

Eliot crags! Bring your girlfriends, dogs, and unneeded in-

laws…

 

Andy leading "The twisted neck" slot

 

Last pitch

 

Thanks for not killing your partners leading rock, Andy. Next

time bring ice screws as well… Forgot to mention, we only had

a single rope and had to climb the rock band (and ice) in a

weird two-followers, full-belay style. Essentially, the two

followers, separated by the 10 feet of rope, climb in

tandem. The tandem climbing gets tricky from a thermodynamic

point to view. It reminds me a ratchet movement of molecular

engines, when two objects have to simultaneously overcome the

energy barrier imposed by…the gravity in our case.

Synchronization is a key. While engaged in a hauling

climbing style, we were pretty vocal, I recall. Some people

get quiet; some sing primordial “Atass” songs! Atassss – go

to the summit!!! What a climb!

A couple of individuals at the summit were staring at us as we

were coming out of the abyss of the Eliot headwall - not

realizing high much more beautiful and interesting the north

flanks of the mountain

are.

 

Nastia nearing the summit

 

The "Russian-American route" as Nastia reccomended...

 

For higher resolution images go to:

[dougd]

We saw your tracks where you topped out from your climb when my partner Ryan and I traversed to the old chute after climbing the Cooper Spur Saturday morning. When we saw this week old set of tracks I knew who had made them, and the thought came to us, holy shit!

 

Most impressive, very nice work you three.

 

d

[YocumRidge]

Oleg, thanks for the best piece of prose I read in a while. If Dostoevsky was alive, he would have been proud of you .

 

Now that high temps are annihilating the beautiful mixed lines on the I-rock,

 

 

we had moved our attention elsewhere - to the Eliot Gl. headwall - located on the northwestern aspect of Mt. Hood and being the object of the Oleg's infatuation for the last couple of years. And deservingly so.

 

Eliot Glacier Headwall with lots of ice and decent rock as of two days ago:

 

 

The long-assed bitchy approach from the Tilly Jane TH with the Cloud Cap road still being closed was rather unappealing to us, so we took advantage of carrying over via the summit from the south side. Not knowing how much trail breaking we were supposed to do (it turned out a lot) - plus Andy was arriving from Seattle, we chose to camp as close as possible to the summit.

However, as of now, with the dog route being pre-cut in place, the Eliot HW should be a straightforward C2C day.

 

 

NB.

Oleg's igloo building skills were highly appreciated at the somewhat windy Crater rock.

Oleg at the Camp Sulphur:

 

 

 

Gradual evolution of my tent: from the originally manufactured as a 2 person tent to a 1 man, 2 women tent and now to a 2 men, 1 woman tent. Pretty stoked, it might become a circus tent one day .

 

 

Soleil dansant on the Yocum and Cathedral ridges:

 

 

Trio on the summit:

 

 

Chillaxing at the camp:

 

 

Awesome trip, Andy and Oleg!

 

 

 

 

 

[rocknrolla]

Wow, amazing pics you guys! I couldn't figure it out on my mac... I guess I must be computer illiterate. Great climb, looking forward to another of equal magnitude!

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

Prekrasna robota, Nastia, Oleg, i Andrushka (that would be you Andy ;-) ) !!

[YocumRidge]

Great climb, looking forward to another of equal magnitude!

 

You got it!

[OlegV]

We had the best team ever! The division of labor was perfect. Zero drama too. I hope people will pay more attention to the EHW in the future. It is an extraordinary mixed route.

 

Nastia did the other variation of the North face only in 4 days after we climbed the headwall - the Raven. My greatest compliments to her!

 

 

 

[Buckaroo]

PNW ice in May, YEEEEEE HAAAAA!!!

 

way to teamwork, with 3 on 1 rope

[alpine et]

3 on a rope? wait... I've seen your video on the interwebs!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvJK5IuS5Z4

[Nipsy]

Nice work! I was one of the two people you chatted with on the summit ridge that went through the old chutes. Impressive work!