1st time to squamish, need suggestions

[jordansahls]

So I'm planning on getting up to Squamish here soon and I need some suggestions for routes. I'm looking for moderate climbs in the 5.7-9 range, multipitch that don't get overcrowded on the weekend (not Diedre). Any climbs somewhat off the beaten path that match my requirments? Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

[DPS]

St Vitus Dance, Snake, Cruel Shoes to Apron Strings (basically the first few pitches of the Grand Wall. Bananna Peel, although pretty easy, is fun, longish, and usually not crowded.

[jmace]

Squamish Buttress with Butt Face variation, South Arete, Sickle, Rambles, Skywalker(busy), One Scoop of Delicious Dimples, Sunshine Chimney, Cream of White Mice, Slot Machine, Old age->Sparkies->Wonderland, Papoose1, Europa(some hate it), Great Drain, Jungle Warfare.

 

Cruels shoes is old school 10d and apron strings is hard 10b

[DPS]

 

Cruels shoes is old school 10d and apron strings is hard 10b

 

I did these so long ago I forgot I could climb that hard. I thought they were easier. I was also thinking of mercy me. Is that still 5.8?

[Drederek]

slot machine is nice crack, you can do more than just two pitches. And first two pitches of Birds of Prey are 5.8 also.

Edited May 10, 2012 by Drederek

[max]

And first two pitches of Birds of Prey are 5.8 also.

 

It's nice to pick up a couple of climbs next to each other. Also on the Sheriff's Badge is Jungle Warfare. It's rated 10a, but that's for a short (akward) section of off-width. Otherwise the route is in the .7 - .9 range.

[G-spotter]

And first two pitches of Birds of Prey are 5.8 also.

 

It's nice to pick up a couple of climbs next to each other. Also on the Sheriff's Badge Squaw aka Slhany is Jungle Warfare. It's rated 10a, but that's for a short (akward) section of off-width. Otherwise the route is in the .7 - .9 range.

[max]

oops. thanks.

 

[HansB]

It's not multipitch, but I've always thought that Garfield is THE best easy climb in or near Squamish, and there is never anyone there. It's at Comic Rocks, which is at the top of the hill past Furry Creek. It's 5.7, 40m, and not to be missed.

 

[Ed_Hobbick]

Skywalker was kind of damp a few days ago, but seems like the kind of route your looking for.

[jmace]

Re: Garfield

 

Try laughing crack in the bluffs, also of the same caliber.

 

Jungle warfare now has a couple bolted variations to that start.

[fenderfour]

World's toughest milkman, Smoke Bluffs Connection (due the 5.8 to the left of jabberwocky)

 

[fern]

 

smoke bluff connection is the definition of ON the beaten path.

 

squamish is popular, climbs get traffic. get up early or stay out late to get on the popular classics and you will probably have a more productive and fun time than wandering around looking for obscure bushy mossy stuff. It's daylight out for like 14hrs now, so lots of time to avoid crowds.

 

... or you could climb North North Arete and Green Thumb ...

[G-spotter]

AMO Wall has 3-pitch bolted slab routes 5.7-5.10 and you are unlikely to see anyone there. It's between Shannon Falls and the Chief and you can find a photo topo at the Quickdraw Publications website.

[jordansahls]

Wow, thanks for all the info.

 

I understand that such a prestine place as Squamish is going to have crowds, I expect it. I just don't want to end up on one of the conga lines.

 

 

[DPS]

It has been a few years since I climbed there, but the only route with serious lines was Diedre. Maybe that has changed, but there is a lot of very good rock there, hard to go wrong unless it is mossy and/or overgrown.

[G-spotter]

but the only route with serious lines was Diedre. Maybe that has changed

 

yep, that has changed

[skibum14]

Personally, I always really like the Octopus' Garden area of the Smoke Bluffs. Single-pitch stuff, but fun nonetheless.