Necessity of a bomber hardshell? [Gear selection]

[krazedout]

Hi guys,

 

I'm a casual backpacker who's looking into getting into mountaineering. I've been using this as an excuse to pick up some new gear, but right now I am feeling a bit confused regarding my hardshell choice. Basically, I'm confused as to whether there is ever a need for a bomber/super-durable hardshell during mountaineering expeditions (E.g. gore-tex 3 layer proshell)?

 

As I understand it, hardshells are only used in the event of heavy rain or snow, but those circumstances seem to be rare above the treeline. Outside of those cases, most climbers would rather be using a softshell instead of a hardshell. Because of this, I'm currently debating whether to spend $$$ on a proshell/event hardshell, or stick with my cheap columbia rainshell. My goal would be to summit Denali eventually, so I am hoping to be able to get something that can be used until Denali at least.

 

My question then, is - Do hardshells see enough use to make it worth spending money on something like a REI Shuskan or even an Arcteryx Alpha LT for a hardshell?

 

For context, my current layering system while moving is as follows:

Base: Merino base layer

Mid: Melanzana Micro-grid hoodie

Windshirt: Arcteryx Squamish

 

Thank you very much for your thoughts!

Edited April 30, 2012 by krazedout

[DPS]

I used a Marmot Precip to very good effect on Denali and other Alaska Range mountains as well as Rainier in winter. I currently have an even lighter shell (Montbel Versalite, 10 oz) and would use it as my hardshell on Denali if it wasn't such a slim fit.

 

Arc'Teryx hard shells cost what, $400? Precips can be picked up for about $65 on Sierra Trading Post. Do the Arc'Teryx jackets keep you 6 times drier than Precips? Keep the wind off 6 times better?

 

As far as softshells, I dislike stretch woven softshell jackets preferring instead a lightly insulated windshirt. e.g Marmot DriClime. I find they have a wider comfort range and the smooth nylon shell layers better under other jackets.

Edited April 30, 2012 by DPS

[montypiton]

I'd second the recommend on the Marmot Precip. It's marketed as a rain jacket, so is extremely weatherproof, and you can find them CHEAP if you look a little. I'll sometimes take a softshell if I'm looking at some chimney climbing, otherwise, I prefer LIGHT - Marmot driclime is good, I recently picked up a sweet Mammut windshell, and RAB has a very attractive ultralight softshell that looks pretty sweet, too. Bottom line, though, on Denali, or any BIG mountain, carry hardshell jacket AND pants.

 

[Ed_Hobbick]

I have a Marmot Alpinist (circa 1995) and have used it in pouring down rain while out on my Boston Whaler type boat with very good luck, but have not needed it or used it much while climbing. When I climbed Denali with American Alpine Institute in 2007, the guide Seth Hobby said not to even bring it on the climb, I didn't and had no problems and didn't need it. I brought a Marmot Dri Climb, wild things belay jacket and a Fethered friends goose down Parka. This was in May of that year, perhaps things are different later in the season....

 

Edited April 30, 2012 by Ed_Hobbick

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I owned a precip jacket and found it breathed poorly. I find my arcteryx is worth every penny of extra cost.

 

That being said, I used precip zip-off pants for summer climbs (and arcteryx bibs for winter)

[mhux]

Hardshells are generally going to breath poorly no matter what, but in their limited actual use...probably not worth the $$$ difference. Try for one of the new 'breathable' hardshells (dryQ, membrain), I have a marmot shell like that and I find it bomber yet rather stretchy and breathable...but to each their own.

[DPS]

The OP mentioned Denali. If I head back to AK, I would go with this: http://www.bradleyalpinist.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=71 Not a hard shell laminate, not a softshell, but windproof, super breathable, and highly water resistant, certainly enough for the dry AK Range. I have a WT Belay Jacket and a sleeping bag with Epic and they are pretty great.

[hamballs]

Whether or not you choose a hardshell, softshell, or hybrid completely depends on where and when you'll be using it. If there's a chance you'll be spending prolonged periods of time getting rained on in the Cascades, a good hardshell is a must. If you'll only be using it on Deanali, a soft or hybrid shell jacket is plenty sufficient.

 

When I spent alot of my time in the Coast Mountains of BC getting rained, I used a bomber 3-layer shell (Alpha SV). Now that I'm here in the Cascades and generally get to choose when I go out and ovoid really bad weather, I still use a hardshell but its a much lighter version (Alpha FL). On Denali, I took a hardshell and never really used it except on really windy days, for some reason it never rained during my 9 days at 17camp.

 

A disclaimer about me though: I don't really sweat so I can usually hike all day in a shell and not get too hot. Hence why I choose the hardshell. It provides all the protection without the loss of comfort or breathability. I personally don't see many uses for softshells apart from looking cool while ice climbing or if you live in Arizona where it doesn't rain. My two cents.

[krazedout]

Thanks for all the input guys! It does sound like a bomber hardshell is not necessary, although a hardshell is definitely a must. I've gone ahead and purchased a Westcomb Specter LT - it seems like the best compromise between weight and durability. looking forward to seeing that eVent in action!

Edited May 4, 2012 by krazedout