Stuck Cam: Rogers Corner P2 at Index

[selkirk]

Grrrrr.... Got a black Metolius Ultralight 4 cam unit stuck on P2 of Rogers Corner. It's on the climbers right tucked back into a crack, just before you head up the steep part towards the anchor at the base of Breakfast of Champions.

 

Not expecting it back but I'll throw in a 6 pack if someone is feeling generous. Otherwise there's a new fixed piece on route!

 

First time I've ever gotten a cam stuck and it's making me grumpy!

[kurthicks]

I spent almost 20 minutes on it yesterday to no avail. It moves all around, but seems to be keyed in somehow.

[genepires]

what the good lord giveth, index will take away.

[selkirk]

I spent almost 20 minutes on it yesterday to no avail. It moves all around, but seems to be keyed in somehow.

 

That's what I found to. It would be more satisfying if it was at least welded in place!

[kurthicks]

I thought about welding it, but someone will get it out. Might take a funkness or a hacksaw though.

[Riley81]

Never thought of using a funkness on a cam. Maybe take a crowbar up there and try to pry the crack open a little bit. I got a cam stuck on the flakes at the beginning of Princley Ambitions once and they only way my partner could get it out was by pulling out on the flake with all his strength. That was my first lesson in over camming a piece.

[selkirk]

Never thought of using a funkness on a cam. Maybe take a crowbar up there and try to pry the crack open a little bit. I got a cam stuck on the flakes at the beginning of Princley Ambitions once and they only way my partner could get it out was by pulling out on the flake with all his strength. That was my first lesson in over camming a piece.

 

That doesn't speak well for the holding power of a cam in that placement!

[Riley81]

Yeah the one I got stuck probably wouldn't have held a fall. Usually when your piece is overcammed it will tend to skate out before it activates.

[keenwesh]

Yeah the one I got stuck probably wouldn't have held a fall. Usually when your piece is overcammed it will tend to skate out before it activates.

 

I doubt this claim, everybody overcam the hell out of your gear (preferably new, don't want to add too many variables into this) and then whip onto it. I'll do my own tests on the pieces you can't get out

[Lukic]

I cleaned your cam today and am more than happy to get it back to you, no charge since it'll be my good deed for the week. Always happy to reunite a climber with their long lost gear. It's still in good shape I live in Seattle and work in the U District tomorrow and should be around locally the rest of the week. I'll PM you my contact info.

[hamballs]

Usually when your piece is overcammed it will tend to skate out before it activates.

 

Do mind expanding on this? My understanding of the physics involved with camming units tells me that if the cam doesn't fall out without loading, it shouldn't "skate" out after being loaded (assuming all other things are as they should be, i.e. good lobe contact, solid rock, direction of pull, etc.).