Farside - Sweet Fucker

[billcoe]

Ivan had told me that Sweet Fuckers fixed pins were gone. Yesterday I cleaned and retrobolted and once again, it's a Sweet Fucker although there are bolts not pitons. Tossed a couple extra in for good measure. Tiny to med cams, could 3/8" nuts, 4 draws and you're good. Tiny cams for the top crack would be real helpful.

[Teh Phuzzy]

Thanks. Thats one of the most fun routes out there. Pretty dry then eh? Might have to find a way to get out there tomorrow.

 

[ivan]

good to hear - fun route! seem to recall the first time i did it the only pro i used was the 2 pins

[billcoe]

good to hear - fun route! seem to recall the first time i did it the only pro i used was the 2 pins

I recall watching that and hoping that a fall would not test the only thing between you and the ground. But you were styling. Now there is 4 bolts in that section, and you are one of the reasons why:-) Pro inflation:-) It goes at @ 5.7-5.8 until the upper part which takes tiny cams that are good. I saw the next party to climb it after you just traverse right to the visible Headwall anchors 3/4 of the way up ....and thus avoid the 5.10 finish AND also get a TR on The headwall.

 

Teh, it's got to be dry as a babys behind......after it's been changed and powdered of course.

[Teh Phuzzy]

I remember slipping a tiny nut, BD 5, in that top part. Never tested it with a fall, but it worked well enough for my follower to yank on as he was frenchin it. I've only done that top piece of the climb seeing as I went up The Headwall and then saw that and wanted to play on it real bad. Plus there is a nice surprise at the anchor on The Headwall

 

[Teh Phuzzy]

no pins left since Bill Coe retrobolted it and I stuck Ian's cam in the top/fun part... making it draws only unless its 2trad4u

Edited April 26, 2012 by Teh Phuzzy

[ivan]

holy jesus, were those 1/2 inchers you sunk bill?

[billcoe]

They are Ivan, stainless too. They'll be there for generations with any luck so that when Wolf comes along at 6'8" and 250-260, he can pitch at will with joy and glee.

 

PS, I have a Leeper friend of a friend if you want to borrow it Adam. They are marginally effective for Metolius cams but will work. Get a hammer and a funkness, pull the triggers via the friend of a friend and WHAM!!!

 

They look like this:

 

[Teh Phuzzy]

Thanks for the offer Bill, but I think that crack is a little small for those guys to fit in, could barely get my nut tool in there to jiggle the lobes directly.

[The Ospray]

Sweet Fucker... hmmm really you couldn't come up with a better name?

[billcoe]

Sweet Fucker... hmmm really you couldn't come up with a better name?

 

Apparently knot, but feel free to pitch some route names out there. The Mayor of Beacon came off of it, looked up and enthusiastically and loudly exclaimed: "SWEET FUCKER".

 

Thus, named.

[The Ospray]

Oh I don't care, and I more than understand why you named it that. I guess I will just call it something else if ever go out there with my 12yr old son and climb it together, since he always really likes to know the names. A fair amount of people would probably find the name rather distasteful is all I am saying.

 

 

[billcoe]

Oh I don't care, and I more than understand why you named it that. I guess I will just call it something else if ever go out there with my 12yr old son and climb it together, since he always really likes to know the names. A fair amount of people would probably find the name rather distasteful is all I am saying.

I understand. The Mayor, aka Woo Li master named this route below as well. This is Jeff Thomas's picture of my son fighting the blackberries (ALL of the greenery in this picture is blackberries) following the first ascent.

 

 

Route name: Child Abuse . LOL, Jim cracks me up.

[The Ospray]

 

Route name: Child Abuse

 

Now thats a pretty good one!

[ivan]

A fair amount of people would probably find the name rather distasteful is all I am saying.

a fair # of people in this world suck though, so why worry about them or their moniker-based hangups?

 

a simple solution would be spelling - no reason it can't be "sweet fawker," eh?

[denalidave]

A fair amount of people would probably find the name rather distasteful is all I am saying.

a fair # of people in this world suck though, so why worry about them or their moniker-based hangups?

 

a simple solution would be spelling - no reason it can't be "sweet fawker," eh?

Fah-Q, Dude!

[ivan]

Fah-Q, Dude!

"is that you down there, john wayne?!?"

[KirkW]

 

"Is this me?"

 

 

[ivan]

"Is this me?"

 

"Remember, this was all just a bad dream, fat boy!"