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Posted (edited)

I was wondering if anyone new the current snow conditions in the sierras and the probable forecasts of some ice on the alpine routes in the eastern sierras. I will be working in Tahoe this summer and wanted to do some alpine snow and ice climbs this summer and late fall. Interested in Mt Gilbert, Mt Thompson, Palisades, North Peak etc.. Just got Eastern Sierra Guide book and getting stoked. However I heard it was a kinda bad winter. Any info is much appreciated.

 

thanks

 

Tom

Edited by 123tom
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Posted

Bad winter as in dry winter I think, I don't know that you can count on the usual blue ice in the couloirs this September.

 

If you inquire on Supertopo you'll find a much more Californiacentric crowd with better current information.

Posted

Just came back from Bishop and Mammoth, snow pack is definitely weak there- depressingly so. Driving up the 395 all the mountains were pretty bare too, but neither are quite Tahoe area

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Water ice is still there in spots, although it's short lived. Heading up to check out the falls in North Fork near Mt Whitney shortly, wouldn't be surprised if they were out.

 

However, I feel like this summer and fall will be nice for alpine ice in those north-facing couloirs. Last year was a huge snow year, so I don't think the snow in the V and U notches (palisades) even melted out to expose the ice all last fall. This year might be a different story. Less new snow = more exposed ice underneath...in theory.

Posted

I would agree with above post. I climbed North peak and Dana couloirs last year, and could have used one tool while using french technique up 97% of the climbs. Pretty much pure snow climbs. We didn't bother with the steeper stuff because it was just so deep getting back to it.

Posted
Water ice is still there in spots, although it's short lived. Heading up to check out the falls in North Fork near Mt Whitney shortly, wouldn't be surprised if they were out.

 

However, I feel like this summer and fall will be nice for alpine ice in those north-facing couloirs. Last year was a huge snow year, so I don't think the snow in the V and U notches (palisades) even melted out to expose the ice all last fall. This year might be a different story. Less new snow = more exposed ice underneath...in theory.

 

 

thanks for the info, I hope you are right!

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