Gaston Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Trip: Snoqualmie Pass, Mt. Snoqualmie - New York Gully Date: 12/8/2011 Trip Report: Yesterday I climbed New York Gully with Kurt Hicks. It's in dry but fun condition; almost no ice but lots of frozen moss. One or two pieces of fixed gear have sprouted in the ten years since I last climbed it, and we left a few pins as well. The A2 pitch still has a sling (a Metolius pocket aider, I believe) around the chockstone, which makes freeing the pitch really easy in present conditions, if you are in the mood: we chose bare-handed jamming. The short downclimb into the Slot at the top of the route is a little thin right now, and we chose to do a quick rappel. www.forestmcbrian.com Gear Notes: Nuts, cams purple TCU to 3-inches, doubles in the mid-range would be helpful; a half dozen pins is indispensible--we brought two short and two long knifeblades, a lost arrow, and a baby angle, all of which we used. Bring two ropes if you want to be able to retreat in a reasonable manner. Approach Notes: The Phantom Slide approach is very straight-forward, and snow conditions are great for flotation-free travel, though a bit deep during our descent around 2PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Nice. I also enjoyed your Fail1 TR, it articulated very well how I've sometimes felt, as am imposter in perhaps the wrong place at the wrong time. It seems like it takes time-hardened experience to become eloquent about the emotional side of mountain endevours. I couldnt speak to any of it when I was in my 20s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 A couple more photos for fun: Pitch 2 traverse Forest following P3 in the box gully. The last steep bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannible Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 I was curious about that chockstone in the aid crack. Has it always been there or did some one at some point pick up a rock from the rubble below the crack and stuff it in there for pro? Not that it matters but it does make things easier than if it wasn't there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 Strange fixy for sure! Looking forward to another lap myself on that one.Thanks for the report. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 Nice send! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 Beautiful pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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