denalidevo Posted October 27, 2011 Posted October 27, 2011 Trip: Trout Creek - First taste of Trout Creek! Date: 10/22/2011 Trip Report: Escaping another rainy Seattle weekend, Ian and I dashed to Trout Creek, OR after work last Friday for a weekend of spectacular crack climbing. We were joined there by JP, whom I'd met in The Valley a few weeks prior. This was my first foray to Trout Creek and I was suitably impressed - some of the best pure crack climbing I've ever experienced! We started things off Saturday afternoon at The Northern End on T-Handles (5.9) and Talkin' It Clean (5.10-). SIZING UP THE CRACKS AT THE NORTHERN POINT IAN LEADING T-HANDLES JP ON TALKIN' IT CLEAN Then it was a lap each on Salad Daze (5.9) and Bedside Manner (5.9). On our way back to camp that evening we wandered on past the main wall and scoped out the cracks there. SUNSET ON THE MAIN WALL Sunday found us at the main wall where we each led Gold Rush (5.10-), a stupendous one hundred-foot hand crack - probably the best I've ever climbed. LEADING GOLD RUSH Then I gave JR Token (5.10) a go. It began with straightforward jams to a sustained thin hands section near the top which gave me some trouble. I ended up hanging on a few pieces while on lead but managed to get it clean on top-rope later. I've got a project to work on! I'll definitely be back. TROUT CREEK - OREGON'S CRACK CLIMBING PARADISE More photos: my Trout Creek Oct 2011 photo set on Flickr >> Gear Notes: Lots of cams: we took three doubled racks up to Camalot #4. (Used six each of Camalot #2's and #3's on Gold Rush.) Approach Notes: 45min, lot's of vert & boulder scrambling Quote
wimsey Posted October 27, 2011 Posted October 27, 2011 Gold Rush has a split letter grade now?! Quote
wimsey Posted October 27, 2011 Posted October 27, 2011 BTW, it is exactly 10 years since the Wenger Bros ventured out there with JR, picked the plumb Space Between and set all this in motion. Good times. Quote
denalidevo Posted October 27, 2011 Author Posted October 27, 2011 Yes & no - Trout Creek uses the 5.10-/5.10/5.10+ system. Gold Rush is considered 5.10-, so that means it falls in the range of 5.10a or 10b, depending on your hand size. Gold Rush felt like 10a to me. JR Token is listed as 5.10 (i.e. 5.10b or 10c) - felt like .10c to me... Gold Rush has a split letter grade now?! Quote
corvallisclimb Posted October 28, 2011 Posted October 28, 2011 (edited) BTW, it is exactly 10 years since the Wenger Bros ventured out there with JR, picked the plumb Space Between and set all this in motion. Good times. Well JR and Bill Ramsey originally went out there in like 83ish... just saying Edited October 28, 2011 by corvallisclimb Quote
shapp Posted October 29, 2011 Posted October 29, 2011 I always considered 5.10- to be anything from hard 5.9 to 5.10a, I don't think gold rush could be considered 10b. Quote
111 Posted October 29, 2011 Posted October 29, 2011 soo gooooood. I am drooling on my keyboard. I really need to quit my job and live in one of the caves in the boulder pile there so I can climb every day. Quote
denalidevo Posted October 29, 2011 Author Posted October 29, 2011 Just telling you what the Trout Creek guidebook says: "As with any crack climbing area, ratings here can be incredibly subjective. If you have really small hands you may find Gold Rush punishing and cruise the “harder” JR Token. With that in mind, this guide uses the +- system of less precise grade measurements. For those unfamiliar with this system, 5.10- is in the range of 5.10a or b; 5.10 is 5.10b or c; 5.10+ is about 5.10c or d." Their crag, their rules. Gold Rush felt like 10a at the most to me. (It was easier for me than most Index 10a hand cracks I've frequented, but three times longer too.) I always considered 5.10- to be anything from hard 5.9 to 5.10a, I don't think gold rush could be considered 10b. Quote
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