Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
mountainsloth

[TR] Bugaboos - NE ridge Bugaboo, McTech R variation, Wildflowers 9/10/2011

Recommended Posts

Trip: Bugaboos - NE ridge Bugaboo, McTech R variation, Wildflowers

 

Date: 9/10/2011

 

Trip Report:

First trip to the Bugaboos and I gotta say there is a lot of hype out there about this place, but...

it really sucks. I mean just look at this place!

IMG_0758_2000x1126_.jpg

Nothing but snow and rock.... bleh

 

The temps were only around 70 during the day and 40 at night, no one was there to keep camp interesting, and all they have at camp is running water, gear hangs, food lockers, and outhouses. Sheesh!

 

I mean, look at the view from the outhouse....

P1180994_2000x1500_.jpg

really? ;)

 

In all seriousness, the Bugaboos have been a dream destination of mine for years and it exceeded my expectations on all levels.

Too bad its so freaking far away from Seattle!

 

Here was our itinerary for 5 days.

Tuesday: Drive 12 hours from Seattle 3:30pm to 4am Wed Am.

Sleep in the parking lot for 4 hours.

 

Wednesday: Hike in with way too much food and gear.

 

IMG_0714_1126x2000_.jpg

 

IMG_0717_2000x1126_.jpg

 

IMG_0730_2000x1126_.jpg

 

IMG_0732_2000x1126_.jpg

 

IMG_0733_2000x1126_.jpg

Promptly pass out assuming I was just dreaming the whole thing anyway.

 

IMG_0747_2000x1126_.jpg

 

Thursday: Wake to another perfect high pressure day in the Bugs and climb the classic NE ridge of Bugaboo Spire as our intro.

IMG_0769_2000x1126_.jpg

P1180581_2000x1500_.jpg

 

P1180589_1500x2000_.jpg

We got off route on the approach ending up on extremely sketchy-loose terrain, but quickly find our own way around.

 

P1180591_1500x2000_.jpg

lead a crack, traverse, and rappel to a ledge.

 

P1180597_2000x1500_.jpg

traverse the ledge, scramble to the ridge.

Not exactly textbook.

 

We climbed the ridge avoiding both Chimneys via nicer, and harder cracks.

 

P1180603_1500x2000_.jpg

pitch 1

 

P1180618_2000x1500_.jpg

P1180607_2000x1500_.jpg

I linked two pitches of fingers to hands in two corners with a 70 meter rope skipping the first chimney

 

 

P1180619_1500x2000_.jpg

And Chris my partner skipped the second chimney via a twin finger and hand crack that climbs steeply to the left of it.

 

Both are highly recommended and protect well.

 

The upper ridge was cruiser and we reached the summit around 5pm.

P1180629_2000x1500_.jpg

 

Summit shenanigans ensued...

P1180627_2000x1471_.jpg

P1180630_2000x1482_.jpg

 

but we quickly realized we still had a ways to go before dark.

P1180631_2000x1500_.jpg

 

P1180635_2000x1482_.jpg

Exposure!

 

IMG_0798_1126x2000_.jpg

Down climbing...

 

IMG_0800_2000x1126_.jpg

 

IMG_0805_1126x2000_.jpg

and a few rappels got us through the technical stuff

 

P1180646_2000x1500_.jpg

Racing against the Sun!

 

All said and done, we reached the Col just as it hit dark.

Friday: Rest/crag day.

We climbed McTech with the right variation start mostly because we bickered over who would lead the finger crack and the book said it was 4 long pitches instead of 6-7 for the Arete.

 

The first pitch was a nice, stout off-width-fist-hands layback (excellent!)

IMG_0826_1126x2000_.jpg

 

The second pitch followed a corner that was tricky but fun.

P1180652_1500x2000_.jpg

 

The 3rd and fourth pitches were out of this world!

hands through a roof?

P1180656_1500x2000_.jpg

P1180661_2000x1500_.jpg

P1180699_1500x2000_.jpg

P1180705_1500x2000_.jpg

 

The climb flowed seamlessly and all that kept running through my head for those last two pitches was "This is the best climb I have ever done!"

P1180712_1500x2000_.jpg

 

Physical, engaging, unique, one style after another, and great gear! :shock:

 

I climbed to the anchors and starred at Chris. We didn't say a word, just sat in awe. Our silence was broken my fits of laughter almost to tears. What a joy.

 

P1180740_1500x2000_paint.jpg

The approximate variation we took.

The rappels went smoothly, high from a buzz of pure elation.

P1180728_2000x1500_.jpg

P1180729_2000x1500_.jpg

P1180732_1500x2000_.jpg

P1180733_2000x1500_.jpg

P1180740_1500x2000_.jpg

 

We landed in camp fully amped. We planned on doing something easy for our last day but McTech charged us to find something more challenging, committing, and as beautiful as today's climb.

 

Wildflowers sounded like it would it the bill.

A guy who came to camp solo fed off of our excitement and he decided to join us for the next day as our photographer.

Sweet!

 

Saturday: We awoke early and ascended the Snowpatch/Bugaboo Col.

Wildflowers follows a corner system on the West face of Snowpatch Spire and is sustained 5.9/5.10a climbing for 9 pitches.

Our only complaint is that we climbed most of it in the shade.

 

Chris and I swapped leads through the corner system while Ky took photos: All are his below.

P1180755_1500x2000_.jpg

P1180761_2000x1500_.jpg

P1180767_2000x1500_.jpg

P1180773_2000x1500_.jpg

P1180779_1500x2000_.jpg

P1180796_1500x2000_.jpg

 

Feeling a bit frozen, it was nice to reach the upper portion of the climb and hit sun.

IMG_0864_2000x1126_.jpg

 

P1180827_1500x2000_.jpg

 

P1180842_1500x2000_.jpg

 

The last two pitches were exciting. The book talks of following a solitary crack to the summit.

 

P1180814_1500x2000_.jpg

Hmmm...

 

P1180819_1500x2000_.jpg

oh well, looks fun!

P1180862_2000x1500_.jpg

 

We summited, celebrated with echoes and monkey calls to climbers on Bugaboo Spire,

 

P1180870_2000x1500_.jpg

P1180883_1500x2000_.jpg

 

then prepared to descend the easiest and quickest rappels I have ever done in the mountains.

P1180903_1500x2000_.jpg

P1180908_1500x2000_.jpg

goofing while simul-rappelling.

 

Once off rappel we scrambled and crossed the glacier with rock shoes with an exciting runout down the icefall below.

P1180916_1500x2000_.jpg

 

Feeling fully satisfied with how the climb went, we basked in the West facing Sun and strolled across the glacier.

 

P1180949_2000x1500_.jpg

P1180955_2000x1500_.jpg

P1180962_2000x1500_.jpg

P1180969_2000x1500_.jpg

P1180978_2000x1500_.jpg

 

A few more rappels down the Col got us past the Crevasses and slid the rest of the glacier.

P1180986_2000x1500_.jpg

 

The next day, camp was empty on a perfect Sunday... go figure.

P1180991_2000x1500_.jpg

P1190004_1500x2000_.jpg

We slowly made our way back to the trailhead already thinking of when we will return to this magic land of granite and ice.

IMG_0831_2000x1126_.jpg

 

 

Gear Notes:

Doubles .3-4 inches, a set of nuts.

10 alpine draws

Double ropes are helpful but not necessary depending on the route.

A single 70M rope saved a lot of sketchy downclimbing from rappels on almost every route we descended.

 

 

Approach Notes:

Watch out for cattle on the way in and out!

P1190009_2000x1500_.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice! Lucked out with the wedder. I climbed Wildflowers more than ten years ago and it was good but rather licheny. It sure looks like its cleaned up a bit by now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea, Wildflowers was still a bit dirty, but that just added to the feel. Still highly enjoyable.

I was kind of happy to see a lot of alpine plants sticking around that climb. It seems obvious that the climb was named after these plants that you have to occasionally stand on and use as hand holds.

Too much traffic and they might disappear leaving people to wonder why it was named wildflowers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@ Feck: Yea the amenities up there are pretty well established. My partner and I both agreed that Applebee seemed developed just enough to rid the camp of major issues while still leaving the place as undisturbed as possible.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

awesome report! i laughed aloud when i saw the picture of the top of wildflowers. we had the same head-scratch there. and all the cracks were rounded and dirty. your picture captured it perfectly. good route though!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×