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I suspect the answer to my next question lies in impact force but why can't you use double ropes with twin technique? Seems like when climbing bolted routes, using doubles as twins is OK. Maybe the difference lies in climbing above small nuts.

 

You have it pretty much right on here, it really boils down to impact force. Some companies choose to have their ropes certified as both. Mammut, for example, does not, but does mention in their rope book that the half ropes can also be used as twins. If the impact force is low enough pretty much any half rope should function fine as a twin rope.

 

It is not always a case of the multi rated ropes being more expensive. The PMI Verglas & Metolius Monster 7.8 are both dual rated and sell for about the same as the Bluewater, Mammut, or Edelrid single rated ropes.

 

Jim

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Posted

i use the mammut phoenix 8mm as both doubles and twins ... i tend to use em as twins most of the time to simplify rope management ... ill split em into doubles for wandering pitches when required

 

 

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