YocumRidge Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Trip: Forbidden - West Ridge Date: 9/12/2011 Trip Report: So, west ridge on Forbidden, another NA classic that everyone raves about and that I never seen in person until this last Sunday. My friend Nick and I climbed it car to car after getting 1 hr of sleep at the TH for Boston basin. Feeling like tourists with day packs, we reached the base of the West ridge couloir in 4 hrs. The couloir is currently broken up and out of shape for the season: Good morning J-burg! Fueling up before heading up the cl. 3/4 bypass gully next to the moat: After stashing crampons and axes in the moat, we begun soloing the aggressive gully (must be another classic on its own) when part of its left wall produced a refrigerator-sized manky relic (I am fairly sure being a transplant from Oregon cascades) which missed us by a couple of inches from sending into the abyss down below. At this point, we roped up and simul-climbed the classic gully to the notch and then the classic ridge. Getting up on west ridge: Finally happy on solid rock: Approaching west summit: On the east summit: Boston glacier and Buckner on the background: Looking back on west ridge from the east summit: Downclimbing and rapping (with one stuck rope) west ridge turned out to be more time consuming than going up but the only available option. The setting in sleep deprivation was really wearing us out by the time we got back to the car but was well worth it in the end . Gear Notes: Small alpine rack to #3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lisa_D Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 scary about that refrigerator-sized block! It looks like you had a gorgeous day out otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 how is it again, devuska, that you don't have swarms of hardcore (single male) climbers buzzing about you at all times looking for partnership? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 To Ivan: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 my poor pants...least my nose has finally stopped peeling from that good n' thorough burn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 What is the lighter for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Dan, for whatever the obvious Ivan is doing his best: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougd Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Approaching west summit: Gun show on the West Ridge! :-) how is it again, devuska, that you don't have swarms of hardcore (single male) climbers buzzing about you at all times looking for partnership? Ivan, I was wondering the same thing... d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 how is it again, devuska, that you don't have swarms of hardcore (single male) climbers buzzing about you at all times looking for partnership? Ivan, I was wondering the same thing... d objective hazards ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 yes, Ivan likes his smokes on occasion. He also has a great singing voice and a interesting repetoire of songs makes for never a dull moment. Way to send Forbidden! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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