[TR] SEWS - East Buttress Direct - rope solo 9/8/2011

[danhelmstadter]

Trip: SEWS - East Buttress Direct - rope solo

 

Date: 9/8-9/2011

 

Trip Report:

I've been fine tuning my solo climbng syestem recently, with rope solo free climbs of the Sidewinder route on Liberty Bell, and a wide crack to the right of the the standard north face route on Concord Tower. I felt I was ready to tackle a bigger route. The East Buttress Direct on South Early Winter Spire is hard to ignore while motoring up and around the hairpin, an eyecatcher for sure.

 

 

I left the hairpin around noon on thursday, and hiked up through the heat with more than two gallons of water. There is a fixed line up the fourth class gully below the SE face on SEWS, which made the approach easy.

I bivied on the ledge below the first bolt ladder, and enjoyed the violet shades of fading day on storm clouds to the east.

 

silver star & burgundy spire

 

I slept in a little and tossed the local resident chipmunk a cracker for the nights use of the ledge before heading off for the bolt ladder. I am new to aiding, and didn't realize the pain aiders can inflict if you don't stand in them just right.

 

Except for the bolt ladders I climbed the route free, in 9 leads, 9 rappells and 9 top ropes. The only non bolt section I aided was the short steep finger crack between ladders(11a), which I sent free on top rope.

 

This was an especially memorable summit for me, the warmth of late day sun after an afternoon in tense shade, the ravens and their noises, the sense of accomplishment...

I descended the SW gully, and made it to the road around sunset, and after only a few minutes of walking/hitchiking, a bueatiful smiley woman picked me up! Back to a cold beer at the hairpin before dark.

 

 

 

cheese shot at bivy

 

differant perspectives of the bueatiful sews

 

 

 

[genepires]

full on value!

 

We did the approach, decent thing too. Hike up from hairpin, hike out blue lake trail. I thought it would be a stellar idea to stash a bike at the blue lake trailhead for the ride back to the hairpin. We walked for awhile till someone gave us a ride.

[pcg]

Awesome job and great photos! Can you share details of your rope solo setup please?

[Buckaroo]

 

 

 

nice shot, where's this taken from?

[AlpineK]

Nice Dan! Long rope solo climbs are memorable events you won't forget

[danhelmstadter]

Thanks!

 

Buckaroo, I took the shot from somewhere on the approach.

 

PCG, I use a silent partner self belay device, the key is to build a multidirectional anchor, this might include having to retie the cordellette for anticipated loading, and reseting any non multidirectional pieces such as stoppers between pitches. I use an overhand knot occasionally above (but not to becuse you'll increase fall factor) protection to prevent excessive slack from accumulating. Don't use a rope larger than 10.2 and be careful if the sheath is drytreated because if it is and it's not frayed from some use, it might be too slippery and the clove hitch might not bind despite the belay mechanisim doing its job. use back up knots or at least a knot on the end of your rope, and climb with the ropes between your legs. carry the rope in your backpack, and be carefull to keep clutter out of the way of your device, as it might get caught in the hitch during a fall...

[telemarker]

Cool report Dan! Too bad we couldn't connect over there saturday. I must have driven right by you in Twisp.

 

It's just a matter of time before you're soloing your first Yosemite wall!

[Pete_H]

Late summer summits on the Lib Bell group are often quite sublime. Nice work!