[TR] Mount Olympus - West Peak - Crystal Pass, East Face 8/19/2011

[mr.radon]

Trip: Mount Olympus - West Peak - Crystal Pass, East Face

 

Date: 8/19/2011

 

Trip Report:

Mount Olympus - West Peak (will post pictures later)

 

Well it’s been 13 years since I last summited this peak and about 6 years since I last tried. (climbing partner threw in the towel at Elk Lake)

The first summit I was still newbie to the PNW, I wore my mountaineering boots for the approach, I didn't bring approach shoes. By the time we got back to the car I could not wait to pull my sore feet out of those heavy things. But we made the summit!

So Matt and I left work Thursday the 18th, drove to the Hoh Ranger station. From the Hood Canal bridge to the Hoh we passed over a dozen cops. We commando camped at the Ranger station.

 

8-19-2011

Woke early, move the car, packed for the trip, ate, registered, left at 9AM. Made great time to the Olympic Ranger Station, averaged 3.7mph. Ate lunch, rested a bit.

 

 

And continued to Elk Lake. We took another short break at Elk Lake to pump water and watch the ducks feed on water bugs.

 

 

Off to Glacier Meadows. The weather was a bit warmer and humid, so lots of sweat got us to the land slide. We descended the cable ladder the rangers installed, scrambled up and were happy to find Glacier Meadows just a few minutes away. We found a few spots still covered with snow, but most were dry. Dropped the packs and rested for a few. Arrived around 4:45PM. Made dinner, talked with a guy who hiked to the Blue Glacier.

 

8-20-2011

Woke around 3AM. Made coffee and something to eat.

 

 

Left camp at 4:20 for the summit.

 

 

Hiked over a few snow fields, made the lateral moraine. Dropped onto the Blue Glacier, roped up. Slapped Al strap on crampons to our trail runners and headed across the glacier. First good view of West Peak was awesome.

 

 

Decided to round the rocks to access the Snow Dome. At the top of the Snow Dome the trail was obvious. Headed to Crystal Pass,

 

 

and rounded the back side of the false peak. A short steep section brought us to the false peak summit,

 

 

down a steep scree gully to the East Peak/False Peak shoulder.

 

 

Dropped one pack, grabbed the rock gear and ascended the steep snow to the start of the East Face rock pitch. The snow bridge to the rocks was slightly exposed,

 

 

managed to get onto the rocks and removed the crampons. Two short 30M pitches placed us a few feet from the summit.

 

 

Enjoyed the Blue Bird day! 10:15 we topped out and pulled out the beer we hauled up.

 

 

Made ourselves comfortable, spent over an hour enjoying the views and forgetting about work.

A short 30m rap off the West side

 

 

to a horrible gully put us back onto snow. Strapped on the crampons and repacked for the hike out. Up the false summit gully was a lot easier than heading down it. Crossed the Snow Dome, glissaded down the face, saw a few people out day hiking the Snow Dome. Took a short cut on the Snow Dome descent, cut off a section by boot skiing the steep gullies between the rock bands. Had to jump to avoid a few crevasses. We didn't bother to rope up as the trail was pretty well defined and all the crevasses were more than obvious.

Half way across the Blue Glacier we ran into a couple (1PM) heading across for the summit! We hit the Lateral Moraine (loose scree slope) and made it to Glacier Meadows. Flopped down on the bivy around 2:30PM, ate and pumped water.

Packed up and left camp at 4:30PM.

 

 

The cable ladder was much easier to go up then down.

 

 

We didn't even bother to stop at Elk Lake for a swim. Hiked to Olympic Camp and spent the night there. Dropped our packs at 7:30. Once again made a good dinner and reflected on the great day we had.

 

8-21-2011

Next morning we woke well after sunrise. Started hiking out at 9AM. Made the car at 12:05.

 

 

So car to car in 51 hours. Felt great considering I have a third of my back fused. One thing I did note was that the bolts holding the rods to my L2 and L1 vertebrae rubbed the muscles sore where the waist belt held the pack to my back. By far this is the longest hike I've done with weight and the rods in my back. Feels great to be able to walk.

 

Super happy my climbing partner didn't poop out on me.

 

 

Gear Notes:

No boots, trail runner shoes with Al crampons

 

Approach Notes:

Trail runners, lots of water.

Edited August 24, 2011 by mr.radon

[olyclimber]

Awesome! You got any pictures of the beauty?

[Andy Craig]

Holy crap, that glacier is taking a beating. Even with our large snowpack this year. Haven't seen it in a couple years and it's looking like it's falling apart.

 

 

Best thing to do is climb everything now I guess cause it's all going to melt!

[Fairweather]

Holy crap, that glacier is taking a beating. Even with our large snowpack this year. Haven't seen it in a couple years and it's looking like it's falling apart.

 

 

Best thing to do is climb everything now I guess cause it's all going to melt!

 

Falling apart? That's what it always looks like in the summer--for the last 30 years anyhow. The ice depth at the base of the Blue Icefalls is between 900 and 1100 feet. It's gonna be a while before it melts. If it does, the crossing from Cactus Meadows to The Dry Dome is gonna be a bitch!

 

Great TR! Nothing like dipping feet in Elk Lake after a great climb. That trail washout ladder is amazing.

[UW_climber]

dang I wish I would have saw this thread before I went and did Olympus. Did it the day after you posted (8/24) and could have used those pictures to realize I should go up the false summit. Went around it and did some interesting 4th class scrambling w/ crampons on.

 

As of 8/24 the moat was still in easy condition to get onto the rock if anyone cares.

[Water]

nice climb!! so is that the beater car you take the plates off at trailheads?

[curtveld]

As of 8/24 the moat was still in easy condition to get onto the rock if anyone cares.

Thanks

[curtveld]

Update: All conditions (moats, crevasses) still excellent as of 9-6. A great year for a September ascent!