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[TR] Elephants perch - Various 8/8/2011


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Trip: Elephants perch - Various

 

Date: 8/8/2011

 

Trip Report:

After responding to a partner request Powderhound and I set out on a little 3 day mission to the Sawtooths to get some good alpine granite in. Since we had a short amount of time we settled on the Elephants perch. I wanted to do the Mountaineers route and he had his eyes set on a little known route that was slightly adventerous.

We left PDX around 4 and hit Stanley at 2:00 AM Monday night. Slept at a sweet spot he knew of just south of Stanley. Caught the boat at redfish around noon and were up at the perch by 2. After setting up at a spot with a nice view of the perch we headed up to do a quick jaunt up the MT. route.

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View from the boat heading up to Transfer camp.

 

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Nice views of the perch on the approach trail.

 

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The Elephants perch in all its Glory.

 

The Mountaineers route is a pretty sweet little 7 pitch 5.9 that heads up the SW face. Pro was pretty good and the route finding was not to bad. I think we topped out around 9:00 PM in time to enjoy some beautiful sunset views. Since this was my first time here I decided to scramble the extra 400-500 feet to the summit instead of just traversing around to the descent gully.

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Looking up from the base of the route.

 

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Powdy following the third pitch.

 

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looking up the slabalicious 5th pitch.

 

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Pow-pow hitting the crux after linking the 6 and 7th pitch. Always getting the full value from the 70 meter string. :hcluv:

 

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Sweet sunset views from the summit.

 

On Tuesday we went after Pacadermal plesantries 9 pitches 5.9 A2. This was a more adventurous route that didn't work out quite as planned. Due to a short overnight torential downpour the rock looked pretty wet in the morning and pushed back our departure time a little. Combine that with some difficult route finding on some loose and choosy rock and we got as far as the 5th A2 pitch. After P-hound finished the aid pitch we decided we didn't have the time to finish the following 4 "5.9" pitches and decided to bail.

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Powdog working a lovely 5.9 flaring offwidth section just before the aid pitch. YUMMY! :lmao:

 

After getting spanked off our slightly overly adventerous plans we decided to get back to a classic and hit Sunrise book on Wednesday. This climb was ridicuilous awesome. 5 pitches of sustained 5.9 and up crack climbing with a crazy traversing chimney and an ubberlong first pitch with a few hard face moves thrown in for good measure. We did the 5.10 C0 variaton of course. "5.12- my right eye" I took the first, third, and fourth pitches and Powdiddy took the second and fifth pitch. He was really eyeing the Bombay chimney and I was happy to let him lead it. A real scrunch fest.

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The full route, starts by coming from the right along a ledge.

 

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Good view of the 3rd through 5th pitch. The chimney is a little shorter and deeper than it looks.

 

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Looking down at Diggidy Pow working through the 5.9+ face moves on the first pitch.

 

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PH starting up the second pitch to work the aid section. Pretty stout for 5.8 C0.

 

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Looking up at the 5.10- crux pitch. Not sure which was harder this one or the third pitch.

 

In the end I took about 6 or 7 whippers and fell on every pitch I climbed on this route. It was freaking awesome.

 

We finished the book around 2:30 and decided we might as well get a jump on the ride home. We headed down to transfer camp to catch the 7:00 PM boat and made it there around 6:30. A nice family out wakeboarding offered us a ride back to the lodge but we said no were catching the boat. Unfortunatly for us we had never transferd over to Mt. time and it was actually 7:30 PM when we got to the dock. Alas no boat that night. But left early Thursday morning and were back in PDX by 7:00ish ready fro the next adventure...

Great trip with a great partner.

BTW there is no good climbing in Idaho. :cool:

 

Gear Notes:

Pick a route and get the beta.

 

Approach Notes:

Easy main trail and farily easy climbers trail up to a plethora of sweet camping spots by the lake.

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Crazy potato farmers is more like it! and there are so many deer on the road at night one would be lucky not to get impaled by a set of antlers. They seem to just come straight for you. :confused:

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