mplutodh1 Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 (edited) We had a climb planned this weekend on the Sulphide Glacier route of Shuksan but due to that route being crowded we're contemplating the following: 1) Baker via Coleman-Deming 2) Shuksan via White Salmon Given the choice - which would you go with? I'm leaning towards Baker - I don't know much about the Salmon River route on Shuksan. We're going with a guide. Edited July 7, 2011 by mplutodh1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moonshiner Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Shuksan! Baker/CD is much more traveled than the Shukhorn. Plus, if you climb the white salmon with a guide, the knowledge and experience you will gain should allow you to charge up the CD on your own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mplutodh1 Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 Is White Salmon more technical? From what we were told they are all three about the same. The group is leaning more towards Baker because we've heard the summit pyramid on Shuksan can get quite crowded and you get stuck waiting for groups (in some cases even having to turn around). Most of the group is completely inexperienced and in most cases won't be going out again for something like this. I'm climbing Rainer with AAI in a couple weeks and just using this climb as training / prep. Think after both of the climbs (regardless of the route we pick) and some time in Avy/crevasse classes this winter I'll have some experience to go with groups of climbers with experience and not need a guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 (edited) shuksan via white salmon glacier would be great. But the summit pryamid is the only place where it might feel crowded. So if you go via the salmon glacier, you may be in the same bottleneck. Oh yeah, there is a ridge alternative for the summit pryamid that can bypass the crowds that tend to go up the middle of the face. Any way up the summit pyramid is no place for complete inexperienced folks though. Also, the route you choose should depend on your skill level. Are you ready for the white salmon glacier? It is a bit steeper than C-D or sulphide. Edited July 7, 2011 by genepires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordansahls Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 (edited) If you want the full-on glacier/crevasse mountain expirience go for Baker. Shuksan is a worthy goal but lacks the "big" feel that you get with something like baker. Of course, I may be biased since I have grown up in Washington around mountains. Edited July 7, 2011 by jordansahls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougd Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 I'm climbing Rainer with AAI in a couple weeks and just using this climb as training / prep. Think after both of the climbs (regardless of the route we pick) and some time in Avy/crevasse classes this winter I'll have some experience to go with groups of climbers with experience and not need a guide. Good on ya. This brief apprenticeship will serve you well. For the record I agree with Jordan. Do the CD on Baker. It should be great this year and will be the experience you're looking for IMO/ Good luck, d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 If you can lead easy rock, do Shuksan via the Sulphide and climb the arete rather than the gully. Camp high and get an early start and you can beat the masses. Or... consider the Boulder glacier route on Baker - it's a gem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 If most of your group is inexperienced and wants a "one-time" experience, I think I'd recommend Baker over Shuksan. It is a straight forward climb with no fooling around in the bushes and it will place you on top of a major landmark that if they are from the NW they will see on a regular basis (assuming all goes well). Baker is also a better preparation for Rainier in terms of the overall environment. You will probably camp on snow and there is a large amount of glacier travel involved. Shuksan, however, is a very cool mountain. It is very beautiful and, yes, the White Salmon is actually more challenging than the Coleman Demming on Baker. It will also provide a little more of a wilderness experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mplutodh1 Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 Thanks all! After discussing this with the group (I'm obviously not the only one who has a vote) we're opting to give CD a go. We're all stoked - regardless of where we went! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 OK, but you guys suck for not choosing the little guy. (Not really - I'm pretty sure you will like Mt. Baker. It is spectacular!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mplutodh1 Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 Haha don't worry - I'll climb Shuksan at some point (maybe next summer). I brew my own homebrew beer and while in college at Western chose the name Shuksan Brewing for my little 'operation' because of how much I've always appreciated what an awesome mountain Shuksan is. Only seems fitting that I stand on top! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Well Ok then. Meat now, vegetables later. But in terms of coolness, and excitement, you oughtta talk your guide into taking you up the North Face of Shuksan. It is not a beginners' climb, but it is not hard in a technical sense. And it is WAY cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougd Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 I've done the CD on Baker, it'll be a great training climb for these guys imo. Shuksan remains on my short list... I'll have to check out the N Face now you got me thinkin about it matt... thnx d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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