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sverdina

Shuksan N. face?

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Red - the chimney's is a great route. I can't wait to finish the whole thing since turning around earlier this month with Hikerwa. And you'll probably appreciate the hike uphill back to the Lake Ann trailhead after all the downhill descending via the chimneys after TNF route.

 

Chimneys approach: Nice trail, pretty meadows, streams to cross to cool off the feet and get more H2O. For those doing the Chimneys route. If you don't mind carrying your pack in a bit further, there is a nice bivy we saw at the top of the "grass knoll" mentioned in the Becky guide. Maybe about 45 min to an hour beyond the Lake Ann camp spots. BTW the beta in that guide on the approach was spot on. The best Becky description I've used to date.

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quote:

Originally posted by erik:

the cross country hiking in the sierra is quite pleasent.

Yes indeed, and I'm about to head down there for 10 days. A family trip rathern than a climbing one though, more lounging, fishing, scrambling and bouldering and less whimpering in fear. If I get exposed to too much of that horrid burning orb I might have to change my name from Off White to Pinkie.

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The Chimneys in a day car-to-car is a North Cascades classic tour-de-force, highly recommended! Really a great route in a great setting, with lots and lots of very varied terrain.

 

[ 08-06-2002, 01:05 PM: Message edited by: Alex ]

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Ya we went in to the North Face and came out by the fissure Chimneys and i would say 1) the way we went in there was no bush, just nice easy open forest, but it took us 4 hrs. 2) the n face is a great climb if you like easy snow. 3) i would rather have gone back down the n. face than go down by fisher chims which i thought were kinda unaesthetic. lots of loose rock and then you have to hike out from lake ann UPHILL at the end of the day. truly an unnecessary circumnavigation.

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when did you do TNF? and which general direction did you go? does anyone know if itis possible to go down the arm under the (white salmon?) glacier to the face?

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quote:

Originally posted by RedMonk:

when did you do TNF? and which general direction did you go? does anyone know if itis possible to go down the arm under the (white salmon?) glacier to the face?

we did it in july of 1997. no snow until the end of the ridge (1/2 hour from the bivi site). and that was a high-snow year.

 

we went in via the clearcut, crossed white salmon creek and hiked in along the ridge east of white salmon creek directly to the bivi sites at the knoll under the face.

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right now the clearcut is worse than the forest... cause the stickers and nettles aren't restricted by the trees... i think i am gonna do it early next year...cause it is pretty nasty late season i think...snow conditions would probably be better too... thanks tho dru

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Well there's one thing that's obvious here. Everyone who says the approach is easy didn't go the way I, sverdina, or RedMonk went. There's probably a million ways to get through the approach. Perhaps we didn't read the terrain right ... perhaps the vegetation this year was more vivacious, maybe it's the shoes. We could go back and forth for years on this very subject it seems. But I know that 1) I'm an experienced (more than 15 years) North Cascade climber 2) I know what bad brush is 3) I saw bad brush on the approach to the N. Face. Kudos to you if you picked the magic carpet ride in there. I'm letting folks know that if they go in there today the same way we went in, you will encounter very bad brush, and it will take you many hours to reach basecamp. That is all, retire this thread.

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ya see we were actually in the old forest like 20m from the edge of the clearcut...duh.

 

mtn man ifn you have been cascade climbing for like 15 yrs how cum you have never been to goodell creek or whatever in the pickets that reputedly has way worse bush than white salmon?

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I didn't know climbing in the pickets was a necessity of climbing in the N. Cascades for 15 years. Is that the mark of excellence of a Cascadian climber? Besides, there's no top 100s in the pickets. If you care to see my climbing resume, e-mail me -- I don't want to gloat publicly.

 

I didn't say there wasn't worse brush in the Cascades .. it's a shame you had to read it that way. All I said was that I encountered bad brush on the approach to the N. Face and everybody and their mule came out saying how bad it is in this area and that area. I truly don't give a fuck .. I didn't post my opinion to compare how bad brush is in various ecosystems around the Cascade range. I posted my opinion to do just that .. express my opinion.

 

[ 08-06-2002, 02:35 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

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i am not slagging you or denying your right to chest beat but why the hell would anyone seriously pursue top 100s to the detriment of rad peaks like the pickets... are you some sort of ed veisturs groupie or something... what will you do once you climb the top 100, quit climbing and take up chess or knitting...?

 

so we can summarize the previous 4 pages of posts as follows -

 

1) some areas of white salmon creek have bad bush

2) some areas dont

 

Therefore: if you are approaching TNF of shuksan and you encounter bush YOU ARE GOING THE WRONG WAY [laf]

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Did an early October ascent of Fisher Chimneys years ago, thought it scenic, varied, and fun. No brush (which is apparently a moot issue for either of the debated routes), and awesome berries. Recommend it--do it in a day for max effect. [rockband]

 

What's this top 100 shite?

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quote:

Originally posted by lunger:

Did an early October ascent of Fisher Chimneys years ago, thought it scenic, varied, and fun. No brush (which is apparently a moot issue for either of the debated routes), and awesome berries. Recommend it--do it in a day for max effect.
[rockband]

 

What's this top 100 shite?

Lunger, what up? Wow, no longer lurking, eh?

 

Here's a PBR for ya: [big Drink]

 

Greg W

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quote:

Originally posted by MountainMan:

Well, I'll enlighten you a little Dru, on my plans this summer.

 

I am planning on taking a 9 day trip into the Pickets with some well-known legends of NW climbing. One of these legends made the first "ascent" of Pioneer Ridge (one of the most remote portions of the Picket Range). This legend happens to be my father. Just because I haven't had the time or opportunity to get into the pickets yet, that doesn't invalidate my already prosperous climbing career.

 

As for the top 100, I know several of the very few people who have already climbed the top 100 peaks in the state and it has become a goal of mine to climb them also. When I am finished with the top 100, I will start on the top 200. After that, the top 300. Everyone has their priorities ... these are mine. You really can't fault someone for doing what they want to do. In all actuality, you shouldn't even be questioning my desire to climb the top 100 peaks in Washington. It's really none of your business anyway. Concern yourself with yourself and you'll be better off in the long run.

 

It sounds like what you need to do is get off the computer with your 5000+ posts and do something else worthwhile in life. Like climbing .. instead of meddling in people's business and acting like the authority on Cascade climbing.

[sleep][sleep][sleep][sleep][Razz]

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i dont doubt that you fellas may have found that magic line... but to tell you the truth i dont think it exists right now...i really dont...i have done the schwack twice now and have listened to the routes that you have described....tried them...and quite simply...they aren't that much better...bye the way...fuck you and all your self righteous chest beating... i dont give a flying fuck what your bla bla bla muthafuckin ascent of bla bla bla... go climb this shit right now and find out for yourself...i'm tellin ya...there is no easy way in right now...no "45 minute schwack" BULL SHIT.... cheers all [big Grin][big Drink]

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Hey Dru, is that jealousy cologne you're wearing???

 

Go post now!!! Hurry!!! You've almost got 6000!!!!!!!!! How exciting!!!! Fuck the top 100, let's go for the top poster on cascade climber.com!!!!!!

 

And I think RedMonk is right ... the magic carpet ride is out for the season. Go try it now for yourself. Bring your machete though.

 

[ 08-06-2002, 03:13 PM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

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if anyone can machete that shit it is dru...he's got the strong forearms...from stroking the horsecock in front of his comp on the way to 6000 posts...

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still curious though it going over the arm is feasible as i am gonna take one more stab at this route... i would like to avoid all that shit...but i will head back in if need be...

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lol .. i can't blame dru though .. he's probably so used to looking for threads to post on that he overlooks the fact that he doesn't have anything valuable to contribute.

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oui c'est vrais....actually i am just wasting posts cause i only have a few more until i reach a new status....gotta....keep...posting... [rockband]

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