[TR] Mazama - Goat Wall - Prime Rib 6/24/2011

[Tyson.g]

Trip: Mazama - Goat Wall - Prime Rib

 

Date: 6/24/2011

 

Trip Report:

Had been wanting to try this route for a while considering the length, easy grade, easy protection and that I have never climbed in Mazama.

Curt and I had planned on Squamish for the day but the weather had other plans for us.

We loaded the truck with gear for either SW Coluior @ SEWS as well as the sporto rack for Prime Rib and headed East to see where we would end up.

One of the many things I enjoy about climbing with Curt is the flexibility regarding plans. It seems our trips tend to be along a similar vein of: get in vehicle with a handful of options and then drive making decisions as to destination as the drive progresses. I like it!

The weather was not all that inspiring at Washington pass so we kept driving and found blue skies with broken clouds in Mazama.

There were four cars in the pull out when we parked and we anticipated that we would be waiting to get on route.

Curt and I arrived at the base of the wall after about 15 to 20 minutes of hiking and spotted a party of 2 on route with the leader about 1/2 through the second pitch.

We waited a few minutes and then roped up and I took the first pitch.

I brought up Curt and we started leap frogging the pitches.

At the top of the third pitch I caught up to the other teams second as he belayed the leader up the next pitch. The Belayer commented on our good climbing speed and was curious if we wanted to pass. I suggested that I talk to Curt and he talk to his partner and we could consider it at the next belay.

We ended up passing them "team geezer" at the top of the pitch past the "au cheval" belay.

It was Curt's lead and he ended up stringing the next two pitches together in an effort to solidify our lead on "team geezer".

Curt's lead was on some of the funnest climbing on the route that far. A mix of pockets, edges and a fun bouldery move between the two pitches. At this point it was finally getting a little airy and enjoyable.

I led the Gray Slab pitch above the large fir and found it to be easy but sustained with the rock in this portion of the route having a little different characteristic I.E. small edges and divots.

Next was the traverse pitch which offered some great exposure with really easy climbing.

Before long we were at the last pitch and Curt was starting up when a rap line came down and we finally met up with the other party on the route. We stopped and let these two "team green" get below and off rap then Curt continued up. I would call the moves about midway throught this pitch the crux of the route and would personally rate it about 8 or 8+. It is just an awkward move left across a rotting chimney with great exposure all around.

We hung out briefly on top and ate some quick lunch before starting the 12 or so raps to the bottom.

We dispatched the first few rappels without a hitch but when I was rapping down I passed the anchors for the gray slab rap and wound up about 10' above the belay anchors for the traverse pitch where "team geezer" was currently at.

I tied into a crappy little tree and started formulating a plan for getting down to the belay anchors and hollered for Curt to come down. Lucky for me Curt is far more observant and found the rap anchors tucked under an overhang. Curt threw me an end of the rope and gave me a belay the 15' back up to the proper anchors.

We were back on track and resumed the rap fest!

One rap station above the "au Cheval" station I came to the anchors to find the end of "team greens'" rope stuck in the chains. I hollered down to them and freed the rope. I added an old locking biner to the chains to ensure that our rope would not suffer the same fate, as it was going to be a while for "team geezer" to get back down and I was not interested in risking a stuck rope and long delay.

We caught up with "team green" at the "au cheval" belay/rap and agreed to continue down as a team of four to expedite the process and not be all over each other on the way down.

The rest of the descent went off without a hitch.

 

Overall it took Curt and I about 3 hours to climb the route from the base it took us 2 hours to rap. We could have shaved time of the rap if I had not missed the one station and if it was clear for Curt and I to continue without teaming up with "team green".

 

This is a fun route.

Not classic.

Not worthy of a specific visit just to do it.

I would say it is great for what it is though and there are some really fun sections.

I would do it again and maybe combine it with some Fun Rock routes or other things in the area.

 

 

I removed the over compressed/washed out photos except this one.

Here is a link to better quality images.

Prime Rib - Photos @ Flickr

 

 

Gear Notes:

Topo say 14 draws although it is easy to skip a few bolts per pitch. I think we took 12 or so draws and never used all of them.

1 60m for the numerous raps.

 

Approach Notes:

Easy but steep trip up the scree field.

 

 

Edited June 30, 2011 by Tyson.g

[jon_masaya]

Nice work. I'm always hesitant to recommend this route to anyone who has access to a trad rack (you can have a lot more fun and get way more exposure on a single pitch at index than on 11 at goat wall). And all those rappels! Yeesh! Still fun though, those last few pitches are neat.

 

Just don't go and do Infinite Bliss now, ok?

[Bronco]

Extra points for matching shirts? Indeed!

[Tyson.g]

Bronco -

True enough we called eachother ahead of time.

We ended up being "team Red", the other guys were wearing the same color green , hence the "team Green and well "team Geezer" they were self proclaimed geezers.

 

Jon -

I was thinking the rest of my season I should focus on bolted only semi alpine routes. By the sounds of it I may need to get IB before it is chopped.

 

[genepires]

you two are such a cute pair.

[Tyson.g]

[curtveld]

We ended up being "team Red"

We look like a couple of friggen 'Bob and Ira Spring' models! I would have dressed differently if I'd known your camera shoots in Technicolor.

 

I agree that the climbing quality isn't classic, with a fair bit of class 4 and walking. But I really enjoyed the overall experience anyway. The belay panoramas are REALLY good, comparable to Erie, except you've got snowy peaks and overlooks of the upper Methow River and Valley (OK, I'm a geo-nerd). I'm pretty sure I'll go back, probably with my kid or someone that's a bit rusty and wants to do something biggish but mellow.

 

Great day and TR, T.

[Crillz]

Anyone have the good beta on where to park if you walkoff in lieu of rapping that wall?

 

I heard there was an obvious large place to park off of road 5225. Any landmarks to look for, or is it the first obvious pullout?

 

Thanks.