111 Posted June 7, 2011 Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) Trip: Wolf Rock - Summit Scramble Date: 6/4/2011 Trip Report: All photo credit to Steve P. After a good day climbing at Wolf Rock, Steve, Jimmi, Evan and I decided to punish ourselves further with the much sandbagged scramble to the summit of Der Wolfenstein. I will definitely say it lived up to some stories I've heard! We started up the faint trail left of the grotto/amphitheater/echo chamber (a pair of musicians use it regularly for the acoustics). A note here, stay in the trees left of the cathedral, going up the water polished main drainage is inviting but will get you nowhere unless you are looking for roped routes. The trail ends at treeline, at a rocky drainage with lots of mossy rocks; climb up this, it has the cleanest most stable rock. To thoroughly enjoy this route, you need to enjoy climbing on lots of moss. Follow the faint cairns up the gully staying within that drainage, but on the right side of it whenever you have a choice. You will begin to shake in fear as you become more and more exposed, and realize that it was a good idea you didnt bring a rope or gear, because there is nothing to anchor it to the entire way. Don't ever look down or let your eyes follow the copious amounts of rock you kick off, lest you decide to turn around short of your goal. My favorite moment was watching Steve freeze as he watched a rock trundled. I called him out and told him to stop watching it and keep moving so he didnt make us all more nervous than we already were. Once you gain the ridge, the summit is the last spire to the climbers right. Stay low on the grassy shelves until you get cliff'd out. You will have to traverse some loose shale directly above a loooong drop off at the saddle of the last two summit spires (climbing shoes are handy here, but not really on the rest of the route). Happy on the summit; dreading the way down. The descent wasn't as bad as we were expecting, but the mood definitely became very serious for most of it. Lots of talk of death and horrible spills on the way down. Again, follow the cairns down. Ian, happy to be almost down. I would call this some very exposed, mostly unprotectable 4th class, with death falls if you slip. There is a very good summit register box there too. I think Tyler has about half the summit posts in the last 5 years. Good on ya! Gear Notes: We wore helmets the whole way and I feel that was a very important piece of equipment (lots of rock kicked down on each other). I was happy with well lugged trail runners, I think your classic approach shoe is the best option for footwear. We took about 1 hour up, and about 1.5 hrs down. Approach Notes: find the amphitheater from the road; start up the trail at the culvert just left of the amphitheater's drainage. Stay left on the faint trail. Edited June 7, 2011 by 111 Quote
NWdriver Posted June 8, 2011 Posted June 8, 2011 How was the road to get there? Summitpost says it can be snowed in into late June. It also says climbing is not allowed until July 31 due to raptor nests. Does this only apply to the technical crags? http://www.summitpost.org/wolf-rock/153008 Quote
morphius916 Posted June 8, 2011 Posted June 8, 2011 Thanks for the TR, Ian! It was a good time. Apparently SP says that the 'normal route is Class 2', haha. NWdriver, Deer Creek Road (intersects Hwy 20 just west of Tombstone Pass) was heavily snowed over near the Hwy. Use the US126 drive via Eugene, and the road was clear all the way to the crag. No snow encountered around the base or at the summit. We really need somebody like Tyler to update the Summitpost description. There's lots of good solid climbing at Wolf Rock, but never many climbers there. I've never heard of the falcon restriction. Then again, perhaps the SP page discourages people from going to the point that we can keep it to ourselves and the rock is still mostly unregulated... Quote
chris54 Posted June 8, 2011 Posted June 8, 2011 Looks sweet It now on my list of new spots this summer. Quote
111 Posted June 9, 2011 Author Posted June 9, 2011 yup, we drove in from the south. and I didnt get bombed by angree burdies, so I'm assuming it is clear this year?? I haven't ever seen any postings about bird closures in the time I've been climbing there. I dont believe the guide says anything in it about that either (not to say that Orton knows everything buuuuut...). Quote
corvallisclimb Posted June 9, 2011 Posted June 9, 2011 Wolf was closed in the mid to late 90's due to falcon nesting. Currently there is no official closure but there is a pair of Peregrines nesting on Pooh Corner right next to Barad-Dur. They have been quite active this year so its heavily advised to avoid climbing Barad-Dur for another month or two. The sport routes under the arch and the summit scramble are fine though. Quote
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