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Posted

matt about your question earlier in regards to cbr, we left shoes and shit at the base because we came from sturt lk. trailhead, about the pla-toe idea, well you seem like the adventurous type, and i could definatly say there is a "connecting" crest to your desired locale, i say give er a go, even if you had to walk from the sausage fest, up hook creek, around dragontail, and back again, this climb would be worth it, imho, but as wyclef says; "when you roll into the carnival anything can happen, what what saywhat saywhat anything can happen" bp

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Posted

You can get to the Enchantments plateau no problem from the top of colchuck balanced. You could also approach the base of the W. face route by heading down to your climbers left from the enchantments plateau. You can easily see the balanced rock from Prussik peak. I was just looking at it this weekend. Oh... my favorite cascades classic would be East Ridge of forbidden peak.

Posted

tex-buttplugger, good attittude! youre a fucking cop-out... why don't you just talk some shit, i know i'm trying to get with the program... problem is i like to talk climbing on a climbing site, if youre bored with talking about the same old shit, don't. simple. sk, good advice...

Posted

Favorite rock climb so far is one I do all the time... called fat crack. I love it because it was made perfectly to fit my hands and when I climb it, it feels like a medatation. There are other climbs I enjoy... Hydrotube is alot of fun and was a challenge for me. And there was a nice Arette someplace i can't tell you about. Not hard, but a fun line. But I always come back to fat crack, I scramble up the first bit and notch my right toe into the crack, I reach up, and there is nothing, no kids no work no life NOTHING and I just am... that is why I love that climb.

Posted

The full north ridge of Stewart was one of my all time climbing highlights. Along with the route the same partner and I did on Mt. Hunter in the Winds. Biggest mindblowing experience was the lat pitch of the Nose...exposure from heaven. Topping out on my first Grade 5 ice climb was the most relieved I have ever been while leading. And I was pretty psyched when I redpointed my first 11a, after years of being stuck on the 5.10 plateau. Nepal changed my life. But I still haven't done jack shit worth mentioning on a boulder.

 

ok, done chestbeating...

Posted

There's more to life than climbing. In my spare time, I'm currently trying "to send" the making of the perfect Dirty Martini. Garnish with blue-cheese, or jalepeno, stuffed green olives?

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Posted

lambone, thanx for sharing, i know for me to think back on cool climbs i've done or whant to do is a little more fun than reading a bunch of useless crap.. i'm stoked to do the complete n. ridge of stuart as well, and i heard of a couple of dudes who did the lower n. ridge to razorback ridge, that sounds a little diferent and pretty creative, anyway i hope posting that stuff brought you back to a place maybe a little better than the computers were all sitting at, that was the idea...

Posted

Bobby - re: colchuck - does that route finish on the enchantments plateau, for an easy jaunt back to camp at one of the lakes?

 

Re: best pure pleasure routes? 2 - The petit Gripon - but its in Colorado, and Burdo's new route on Baring - its fantastic 1400 feet of vertical and overhanging rock that starts 1500 hundred feet off the valley floor.

 

If your psyched on Wa Pass, the Passenger and Independence routes both offer fantastic fun, but be competent above your gear. Right nw, the last 5.10 pitch of hte passenger is a mud fest, wait a could of weeks.

Posted

Sounds like the best approach to the colchuck balanced rock route if you're up on the plateau would be heading down the climber's left after locating the blaanced rock from the plateau. We'll try that. I guess I'll just poke around for where I think the balanced rock is, find it and head down. If anybody thinks its more complicated than that (throw in some beckey fourth class gully disclaimers, of course) I'd love to hear it. Poking around is fun, but I'll also be up there on my honey moon with my non-climbing wife, so I want to make sure that my days away from her are spent actually climbing, not just poking around looking for an approach . . .

 

matt

Posted

No guarantees on whether we'll even go to the enchantments, Lily and I are still debating between a Tuolumne/Valley/Bay Area trip and the enchantments. If it happens, it'll be the week of September 23rd . . ..

 

Being that its the honey moon, of course, its possible, I'll bring the gear and it'll never leave the tent.

 

[ 07-03-2002, 10:52 AM: Message edited by: Matt Anderson ]

Posted

kewl dude, i didnt want to have two parties on that route.......

 

that route appears to be near my upper 4th class limit and i wouldn't want to slow you!!!!

 

good luck and enjoy married i life, i am afraid of it!!!!

 

though if you be in da valley in sept, i be in the valley in sept too.....belay is on if ya need it!!

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