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skibum1087

Split Pillar

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I am wondering if it is possible to rap from the top of the split back to the base with a 70 instead of taking two ropes? In the squamish select I think it says the pitch is 40 meters, and some of the other raps are long also, but I feel like I have heard others say it can be done. Has anybody tried this out and have any info?

Thanks a lot

Spencer

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For sure it would go with a 70m as long as you had a few runners to clip to lengthen your rap length. Do this:

 

32044_DIAGRAM1.jpg

but just use one rope.

 

Make the "OK rope" be the long end, and have one climber rap it first to measure it out just long enough to get to the base of the pillar. Then the second climber also raps this one strand, but ties on a few slings / cords onto the other (short) end as they rap. Pull that end to get your rope back. Fireman back or rapping on a GriGri makes it easier.

 

I guess there are a fair number of bolts on War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, Merci Me, etc, but you still might have some non-standard rappels to make it from the base of the pillar back to the ground.

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If you are willing to rap off single bolt you can get down with a single 70, but why not just take a second line? Or better yet finish the route?

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Thanks for the info and advice. I have finished the route before and would love to again, but we'll be arriving later in the afternoon and most likely only will have time to climb partway (Which is also a nice excuse for being out of shape). Two ropes it is.

Spencer

Edited by skibum1087

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Check on the two ropes. Blakes suggestion on using some sort of knot or carabiner block will work well on routes equiped with traditional chains it won't work well or at all on those huge horse-shoe sized rings that make up a lot of the rap stations on that part of the wall.

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...it won't work well or at all on those huge horse-shoe sized rings...

Are you referring to his drawing? Please elaborate. Thanks.

Edited by pcg

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I think you might be able do a short wrap and swing around to climbers left and get to the anchors for the "Left Side" and wrap from there down to the top of the traverse pitch off of Merci Me with one 70m. But, I haven't tried it, so definitely tie some knots in the end!

 

I know you can get down off of the left side with one 70m, because I've done cruel shoes into the left side and rapped from there with one rope.

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you know if you get to squamish in the afternoon there are other route choices than the split, that actually top out, right?

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Yes you can rap off the top of the Split Pillar (and the Sword and the top of the bolt ladder for that matter) and get safely back to the ground with a single 70m rope.

The Split Pillar is around 32 or 33m long if I remember correctly.

 

Start by rappelling off the Pillar to the chains at the base. Then rap to the other lower anchors 20’ down (the bottom of the three-bolt ladder and the belay for the Left Side .12a). From there you have to make a crazy diagonal (climbers left) rappel to a belay on Genius Loci (keep your climbing shoes laced up and be careful as it is quite a sharp angle). From the belay on Genius Loci you rap diagonally left again to the p1 belay on Merci Me. From there you rap to the Flake, where you walk down. Total of five rappels and a scramble down the flake.

 

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