Josh Lewis Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Objective: Finding Someone who would be willing to take me out ice climbing For well over a year I been wanting to get into ice climbing, but have not once gotten a chance. Now that it's getting later in the season I'm becoming a bit desperate looking for someone who would be willing to take a newbie onto the ice. I know how to repel, belay and all that good stuff. I've got a set of nice ice tools, got a very good rope that could be used for ice climbing. So I've got everything I need except for the ice screws. I've even done a few preparations at home to get a feel for it (I know about alternating tools). I've also been on 60+ degree snow slopes and been on icy slopes were I got a feel for how to have the tool grip the ice well. I'm in good shape, and would be willing to do a lot for this. Even if I have to be that persons trail breaker for the next month... or what ever you come up with. So just a reminder I have not actually ice climbed before, but have a good deal of mountaineering experience. If anyone is willing to do this it would be very much so appreciated, and I would also be willing to be someone's belay slave if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 maybe the "repel"ing the issue? Sorry I couldn't let that slide past. Try to not be so anxious about this. It is not like we live in an ice climbing meca. The ice comes in so briefly that having to take time to teach could be considered wasting the valuable 15 minutes of the ice's existence. I would bet that the majority of ice climbers in washington have no interest in climbing ice in washington anyway. Hence your unsuccessful attempt to find a partner/mentor. Maybe a better option is to search for someone to climb serac ice on the coleman glacier of mt baker in july/august. If you can't find someone who knows what they are doing, then go just go out with some of your buddies, set up a top rope, and do it by trial and error. Read everything possible about ice screws so you can have a solid anchor. Also, you could take the intermediate climbing course with the mountaineers. (if you are a member of that organization) And the probably best option, yet most difficult for you to do, is to save up your money and get out to banff, either with a buddy or to get a guided course. WA sucks for a beginner ice climber. Banff does not suck for a beginner. If you are really passionate about ice climbing, go to the seracs a couple times, then make the run to banff. You may need to get a vehicle if you want to ice climb and make it happen on your own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Top rope serac climbing climbing on the Coleman glacier is a good intro to ice climbing. You can do that mid summer. Right now getting there is a bit difficult, and the ice is buried in snow. Glacier ice and waterfall ice have different characteristics, so you'll need to find waterfall ice to practice on. Given the weather conditions right now the best bet is going to Banff for a week. That might be cost prohibitive of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 It's pretty much the wrong time of year to get into ice climbing. Ice season is dying fast, even in the Rockies. Plan on doing some seracing thi ssummer and water ice in December 2011. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obwan Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 I agree, this season is toast - what happened to the big bad La Nina and severe winter. It all happened back east, Washington ice is very elusive and not always top-ropeable. You can try some dry tooling at the SR900 Rock or Exit 38, but in the end be prepared to travel for some good WI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaleHoopes Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 Yeah, the ice is going away. Every year, Pro Mountain Guides out of North Bend put on an ice clinic up at Snoqualmie Pass somewheres... That clinic usually is only a couple days. I took the clinic this year and we got a great day of ice in February inbounds at Alpental. It was WI climbing... not glacier/alpine ice. Might I suggest the Alpine Ice Climbing course with AAI ( http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/AlpineIce ). I've often wanted to take this class and might get a chance next year or the year after.... Anyhow, This course looks fantastic and runs May - September so you could still get it in this year. It's all Alpine Ice on Mt. Baker, but it looks like a great course and will learn ya the techniques you want. Not real expensive for a 6 day course either. Anyway, just an idea for you. You are right to get interested - ice is so fun. Also, Marmot is having an ice climbing night in Bellevue on 3/30 - you might want to check that out. Finally, I wouldn't worry about screws until you start leading - and without technique, I'd hold off on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 If you can get a butt ass early, zero dark 30 start, there is a 60 foot steep snow wall at stevens pass ski area parking lot. (created by snow clearing machines) The thing is very steep and is probably 70 to 80 degrees. You would need to be there after a clear cold night and be done before the sun really hits it. From sun rise, you might be get 3 or 4 hours of use out that snow feature. You could use trees above for a TR anchor. It is on the northside parking lot, west end, where the buses unload people so there are no parked cars around. go grab some buddies who has a car, a rope, gear and swing those tools into some frozen steep ice/snow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obwan Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Nothing wrong with some Neve' ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 There will be some great alpine ice climbing to be had later this summer, and keep an eye on Pro Guiding Services website next fall - they're talking about trying to expand their ice climbing opportunities! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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