Rocky Butte

[B Deleted_Beck]

howdy.. i'm ben, and i'm a noob.

 

looking to do at least weekly climb days at rocky butte.

 

all i've done so far is top rope, and i'm actually totally good with that for at least the immediate future. i just want to work on my technique, by going up and down, up and down, up and down. naturally, it'd be awesome if i could get some more experienced partners to climb with, but i'm not discriminating- anyone with a harness, ATC, shoes, and chalk may apply, from experienced people to virginal noobs. i'm a confident and competent belayer and rappeller, and can show you how to do both of these safely.

 

i have everything needed for topping... it'd be great if you had a rope, to share the wear and tear, but not necessary.

 

email, PM, post

 

bkb0000@comcast.net

Edited February 9, 2011 by bkb0000

[Lodestone]

Hi Ben

I'd be up for some climbing with you at Rocky Butte. Especially after Daylight Savings when climbing after work is viable. I don't tend to climb there too much in the winter as there are warmer and dryer places near town.

 

Have you been out there recently? What's dry?

 

 

Chad

[B Deleted_Beck]

i've been out there a few times in the last couple weeks, since the weather's been better. after a few days of no rain (and some freezing nights), the rock was basically dry with just a little bit of slippy algae in some spots. totally climbable. i don't know what any of the lines are called, so i can't tell you what i've climbed, but everything we tried was good. until a couple days ago, the condom carpet wasn't even muddy.. just frozen and firm.. but it's fairly muddy now. we just stayed on the rocks and did't have any problems with mud, last time out. now after a day of rain, though, i'm sure it's shitty again... hopefully we'll get a couplefew clear days and it'll dry out.

[Teh Phuzzy]

I haven't been out there since last fall, but I'd be down for some butt action in the near future.

 

I have been out at the new Circuit in NE. The place is rad.

[B Deleted_Beck]

my buddy and i went and rapped some of the taller walls this afternoon. it's very, very slippy right now. we jugged back up after the first rap, but i'm nursing a strained rotator cuff, so once was enough. we scrambled back up the one spot where you can scramble without jugging the next trip up, and then took the trail for the rest of the time. just wanted to get some good leg exercise, and have an excuse to bust out the ropes for something.

 

one of my ropes got absolutely caked with mud from the jugging... it's bad enough i might just go ahead and throw it in the washing machine.

[Teh Phuzzy]

That's about what I figured, everything around here is going to be real wet till June-ish. There needs to be some wind on the rocks if they are going to dry... seems to me there is a spot real close that is known for being windy (-;

 

At least you got the ropes out; the only thing I have used mine for in the past few months is to rap off my bell tower.

 

 

[Lodestone]

That's about what I figured, everything around here is going to be real wet till June-ish.

 

 

 

Broughton Bluff has quite a few dry lines right now. It's a good place to climb during a light rain. Same thing with the Farside.

 

 

Chad

[Teh Phuzzy]

I guess I haven't been out to Broughton this time of year. What areas/lines dry out quickly out there? I would love to throw my fist up in the Sickle again.

 

Never been to Farside...

[Corduroy Man]

If I don't find any one for "Stone Soup" or a visit to the Conetheadral, any one up for Rocky Butte on Thursday or Friday? I am in Gresham so Broughtons Bluff works as well!

 

Rock on!

Edited February 8, 2011 by Corduroy Man

[kevbone]

I guess I haven't been out to Broughton this time of year. What areas/lines dry out quickly out there? I would love to throw my fist up in the Sickle again.

 

Never been to Farside...

 

Broughtons is a great winter climbing crag. Check out the Red Wall and the Bat Wall, both have dry lines even in a down pour. Ozone can have dry lines as well and the Drop Zone can have even more dry lines.

[Lodestone]

I guess I haven't been out to Broughton this time of year. What areas/lines dry out quickly out there? I would love to throw my fist up in the Sickle again.

 

B.B. routes that are usually dry:

Hanging Gardens

Edges & Ledges (gets wet in spots but not in key areas)

The Sickle (gets water on the outside of the 'flake' but doesn't affect climbing)

P1 Loose Block Overhang (the mantel below the anchor gets wet but it's not a deal breaker)

 

Red Wall

Anastasia (usually dry but it wasn't 2 weekends ago)

Classic Crack (it'll be dry enough)

P1 Red Eye (I've climbed this in the rain but it weeps after several days of precipitation)

Thai Stick (doesn't get rained on but it can get seeped on)

P1 Sheer Stress (it'll be dry enough)

Sheer Energy (can get seeped on but the crux stays dry)

 

Spring Rock

Toe Cleavage (gets seeped on but the crux stays dry)

Free Bird (the top is usually wet but the roofs stay dry)

Short Fuse (it'll be dry enough)

 

Bat Wall

There's a lot of dry rock here but the popular moderates (P1 Superstition, Lost Boys, Well Hung) are often wet in bad areas.

 

 

 

 

Chad

[JosephH]

Regardless of what lines are 'dry' out there the snotty mud on top will all be as nasty and as dangerous as it gets - be incredibly careful on top this time of year. You almost can't go overboard protecting yourself while maneuvering anywhere remotely near an edge out there or within sliding distance of an edge.

[B Deleted_Beck]

what's the name of the line that tops out above the ranger tab?

[Teh Phuzzy]

what's the name of the line that tops out above the ranger tab?

 

On the Freeway Wall? Simple Twist .11

 

 

 

Thanks for the info folks

[Teh Phuzzy]

I would be down to head out to Broughton on Sunday.

[Lodestone]

what's the name of the line that tops out above the ranger tab?

 

 

Unless there's more than one of those spray-painted RANGER things, it's near the top of Phylynx. Incredible route. I put some info on accessing the Wizard Wall climbs here : http://www.mountainproject.com/v/oregon/rocky_butte/wizard_wall/106950993

 

^Is that the area you're talking about Ben? Like Joseph said, the tops is going to be slick right now (although most of Wizard Wall is probably dry right now). While you're out there, try Mind Games if you haven't already.

 

 

Chad

[kevbone]

Stay away from Rocky Butte. It is a summer crag. It get zero sun even in summer. Broughtons will be a much better bet.

[Teh Phuzzy]

Stay away from Rocky Butte. It is a summer crag. It get zero sun even in summer. Broughtons will be a much better bet.

 

I remember that place being wet into July last summer. And the skeeters! I hadn't seen them like that since I left the high end of the Mississippi R. Though, you can't beat the approach, as long as you don't slip on a used condom .

[B Deleted_Beck]

well it was plenty dry a couple weeks ago. it stayed wet last year likely because we had such a ridiculously wet spring. other rocks would dry out by morning, but, as somebody pointed out, a norte facing rock will take longer.

 

and i can see how mosquitoes could be an issue down there... bobby and i already have bites. false spring brought them all out, but if we can get another decent freeze, it should kill the fuckers off and give us a relatively GOOD mosquito season this time around. last year was utterly ridiculous everywhere. i cant tell you how much gear i ruined with DEET.

[Cobra_Commander]

don't forget the russian teenagers! I wish deet worked on them.

[Teh Phuzzy]

don't forget the russian teenagers! I wish deet worked on them.

 

if only

 

 

Looks like Broughton for Sunday

[B Deleted_Beck]

don't forget the russian teenagers! I wish deet worked on them.

 

i've only communicated with two people there so far.. one was an american kid interested in climbing routes, which i couldn't tell him much about.. but i pointed out the trail and bolts and never saw him again (maybe his body is still lying at the bottom of the wall?). the other was a kid at the bottom taking pictures of us rapping down. i waved.. he waved back enthusiastically. he tried to climb up the mud slope, presumedly to talk to us, but wiped out 5 or 6 times before giving up and heading back to the trail. he might have been russian... american kids usually don't wave "enthusiastically." american kids usually aren't enthusiastic period.

 

anybody have a theory about the rubbers? 95% of them don't look used... unless these guys have sooper small peckers. are they getting them for free at the college and just throwing them all over the place for fun...? or do you 'spose there's really THAT much poon bangin going on up there?

[Cobra_Commander]

There's really nothing like doing it on a poison oak-covered wet sloping dirt embankment above a cliff next to a major freeway.

 

If you go there by bike I recommend lowering your bike down with you.

[B Deleted_Beck]

There's really nothing like doing it on a poison oak-covered wet sloping dirt embankment above a cliff next to a major freeway.

 

If you go there by bike I recommend lowering your bike down with you.

 

i don't even leave my boots up top. everything comes down but the bathmat rope guard.

[chubler]

Also posted in Climbing Partner forum under PDX drytool night:

 

Thread revival!!!

 

In lieu of crummy weather this weekend, I'm trekking to Rocky Butte for a bit of drytooling Saturday around 9:00 AM (ish). Never been before, but if anyone is interested in joining us, shoot me a PM. Bring on the rain!