pink Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 and why did you put a bolt in my pitch???? i just noticed this steve, thanks for posting these pictures. i'm cool with the bolt, but geez!!!! ivan learn how to hook or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 What about Aunt Bee? Ivan could just rename it Barney's Bull based on the vague internet recollections... Ha! Â Â do you care to elaborate on your comment? is there anyway i can clarify ur concerns? Smart ass is as smart ass does... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 What about Aunt Bee? Ivan could just rename it Barney's Bull based on the vague internet recollections... Ha! Â Â do you care to elaborate on your comment? is there anyway i can clarify ur concerns? Smart ass is as smart ass does... Â uoooo know it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 why do i get the feeling you wouldn't have picked me for your kickball team in middle school?  its instructive to tell those too sheltered to have heard, or too retarded to remember, that the children's story "stone soup" was one of a whole community together by their individual contributions putting together a thing worth enjoying - might go over the heads of some though call the individual pitches whatever you want, the whole thing together is stone soup.  fwiw its worth pink, i doubt your barney's bullet tracks the same line as p2 of stone soup - i don't care one way or the other mind you, clearly folks had climbed on that chunk of stone before either of us - the current second pitch of stone soup though required nailing and a couple bolts to make remotely sane - a path of least resistance lies both to the right and left of the current line and leads to the same place  regardless, hooking does help on the current p2, so be sur eto have one along Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 why do i get the feeling you wouldn't have picked me for your kickball team in middle school?  its instructive to tell those too sheltered to have heard, or too retarded to remember, that the children's story "stone soup" was one of a whole community together by their individual contributions putting together a thing worth enjoying - might go over the heads of some though call the individual pitches whatever you want, the whole thing together is stone soup.  fwiw its worth pink, i doubt your barney's bullet tracks the same line as p2 of stone soup - i don't care one way or the other mind you, clearly folks had climbed on that chunk of stone before either of us - the current second pitch of stone soup though required nailing and a couple bolts to make remotely sane - a path of least resistance lies both to the right and left of the current line and leads to the same place  regardless, hooking does help on the current p2, so be sur eto have one along   what's visible in the picture i climbed r u trying to say that u chose a path of more resistance? im cool with the whole thing being called stone soup weather or not the name sucks donkey balls or not. i guess it went over my head with the swiss family ledges deal. i don't really care if you give me 1st ascent status, i just have one queston the fact that i didn't leave a trace (other than maybe a sling on the tree) does that make me a LIBRUL??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 "the barney's bullet pitch" has a nice ring to it. Â and anyway (now that i think of it) the second pitch is the continuation of smoke signals, so everything from 3rd pitch up is stone soup and the first two pitches are "smoke signals" second pitch being "barney's bullet". you can always rename my shit but i can always come and chop your bolt and remove your pins. Â ever climb serenity crack in yosemite ( oh, that's right you don't free climb) ??? it's 3 pitches and the rest of it is called _______________???? can somebody help me here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Sons of Yesterday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 sons of yesterday thanks bill guess i should have just pissed all over it, maybe left some pins and fired in a bolt. perhaps we could call it the "fire hydrant" pitch guess i should learn how to mark my territory in the future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 the fact that i didn't leave a trace (other than maybe a sling on the tree) does that make me a LIBRUL??? that's what makes me not think we were climbing hte same line - there's no tree on my p2 - there IS a big old tree on the far left side of the "parking lot ledge" that does have a big old sling on it, and that features a much easier (though maybe winding into out-of-bounds territory?) ground  regardless, as i've said a buncha times, i'd really like to climb the whole damn thign w/ you so i can see first hadn what/where your memories are - sorry too that jim et al didn't dig on my route name, but the poitn of a name is to describe a thing, and the sizeable # of folks who donated time and gear to get the whole climb done warranted the appellation  if you did my p2, then yeah, you shoulda added some fixed gear (there are 5 pins and 4 bolts now) not to make your mark, but to make the thing remotely sane, as even w/ what's there the possiblity of taking a dangerous fall is signficant - there were also several dangerous blocks that shoulda been pitched and that when present made free climbing all the more dangerous  barney's bullet is a kewl name - maybe someday i'll even climb it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 (there are 5 pins and 4 bolts now) Â Really. In one pitch? This I'll have to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 like i said, where your rope ran i passed over that stone. post some pics up from where you end and i will tell u straight up if i did the last 30 feet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 (there are 5 pins and 4 bolts now)  Really. In one pitch? This I'll have to see.  that pitch cant be more than 100 feet. i know for a fact that the first pitch is right around 100 feet. good thing ivan didn't go to feathered friends to buy his pins    Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 (there are 5 pins and 4 bolts now)  Really. In one pitch? This I'll have to see. now's the time of year to do it afterall  what pics can be taken have been put up here - think the only way to make real sense of it is to be both standing out there and doing the thing - shit, if you led it originally all on clean gear than i'd like to follow you up it!  bedtime for me - ya'll get the truth figured out and let me know in the morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Did you say Stone Soup? Here's some photos from today. Really a quality route. I'd bring a hammer for cleaning though. Also a headlamp for placing gear on the first pitch. If only Kenny would have had that beta, he'd still have his tailboner. Good times, thank you Ivan. The first pitch has a few tricky "very interesting" sections but fun stuff. Â Ivan looking for the umbrella. Â Ivan starts the second pitch, a little cruxy right off the deck. Â Ivan nears 3 Tree Ledge and the top of the second pitch. We got rained on pretty hard at this point and the temps were chilly so we bailed. I'm stoked to get back on it and finish it as it looks like great fun ahead for the next 4 pitches! Â Highly reccommended. Â i'm surprised you never posted the second pitch photos before, the rock is so quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 (there are 5 pins and 4 bolts now)  Really. In one pitch? This I'll have to see.  that pitch cant be more than 100 feet. i know for a fact that the first pitch is right around 100 feet. good thing ivan didn't go to feathered friends to buy his pins   shit, it's stone soup cuz i didn't have to buy practically any of the shit that went into it  200 feet from base to p2 anchor top is spot on - if you went up to the trees proper atop the ledge thoguh more like 230 feet total Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 what's that big tree over your head ( three tree ledge)??? why did you put a double bolt anchor before the tree and another up to the tree???? i know i rapped off that tree when barney showed up   ivan, did you get a little trigger happy perhaps???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 i'm surprised you never posted the second pitch photos before, the rock is so quality. 2 of the pix in my op are of that pitch - there's some crap in there too for sure (as the recent holocaust scene at the base from natural rockfall woudl attest) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 (edited) (there are 5 pins and 4 bolts now)  Really. In one pitch? This I'll have to see.  that pitch cant be more than 100 feet. i know for a fact that the first pitch is right around 100 feet. good thing ivan didn't go to feathered friends to buy his pins   shit, it's stone soup cuz i didn't have to buy practically any of the shit that went into it  200 feet from base to p2 anchor top is spot on - if you went up to the trees proper atop the ledge thoguh more like 230 feet total   your route is " smoke signals" ... the fact that your a cheap skate ( and takes his summers off) doesn't allow you to rename a route (not that you knew that u were traveling over previously climbed stone) . if it ends up in a guide book with ur piece of shit name, so be it, but i did that first pitch with no bolts and the first pitch as well. in my mind you just dumbed down the route which really sucks ass Edited February 7, 2011 by pink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Hard to believe anyone has previously led Ivans actual line without the requisite pins and bolts and the odd peckerhead and hook move. How would you get pass the 2 bolt ladder on the first pitch? On the 2nd pitch without the bolts and pins,its like no way,you are looking at bad ledge falls. I can't believe that is previously traveled terrain without the fixed gear. I have to stand up for Ivan here, its just to thin and there would be some sign of passing. Barneys Bubble~! and Smoke signals must go either left or right I would think. Thats what I'm talking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Wait - guess I just haven't been paying that close of attention all this time as I just pulled the topo in your original post down onto my machine, blew it up, and looked at it closely for the first time. It seems to indicate you guys put up a five pitch line with 56 (14p / 42b) fixed placements on it? Is that correct? How many of that count are new? I mean jeebus, hate being a downer here, but that's the aid renaissance? Does Opdycke have any idea a fixed pro count like that went down (or up, I suppose)? And he's ok with it if he does know? To be honest, I almost don't know how to respond to that count - yeah, it's below the Compressor's per pitch count I suppose, but at Beacon? Over five pitches? Doesn't that seem a tad excessive, or like maybe a 'line' really wasn't there to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Wait - so I just pulled the topo in your original post down onto my machine, blew it up, and looked at it closely for the first time. It indicates you guys put up a five pitch line with 56 (14p / 42b) fixed placements on it? Is that correct? How many of that count are new? I mean jeebus, hate being a downer here, but that's the aid renaissance? Does Opdycke have any idea a fixed pro count like that went down (or up, I suppose)? And he's ok with it if he does know? To be honest, I almost don't know how to respond to that count - yeah, it's way below the Compressor count, but at Beacon? Over five pitches? Doesn't that seem a tad excessive, or like maybe a 'line' really wasn't there to do? Â i think i actually agree with you on this one joseph.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 (edited) Hard to believe anyone has previously led Ivans actual line without the requisite pins and bolts and the odd peckerhead and hook move. How would you get pass the 2 bolt ladder on the first pitch? On the 2nd pitch without the bolts and pins,its like no way,you are looking at bad ledge falls. I can't believe that is previously traveled terrain without the fixed gear. I have to stand up for Ivan here, its just to thin and there would be some sign of passing. Barneys Bubble~! and Smoke signals must go either left or right I would think. Thats what I'm talking.  i never said i didn't used any hardware on that pitch so perhaps ivan did a variation after about the first 50 feet or so which involved placing 5 new bolts??? looks like barney went up there with more than one bullet, looks like andy was ot fishin with opie on this one   steve, go lead the first pitch of "smoke signals" free, i think you might enjoy it. plus it never gets climbed. Edited February 7, 2011 by pink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 26 lead bolts and 12 pins for 7 rope lengths, all put in on lead and spaced as far as possible  joe n' andrew, you should be happy to know yer increasingly shrill banter's making me owe kenny 2$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 I would call Ivans line the pure Direttissima line and everything else exploiting minor lines of weakness. This route take a great line up the middle of the wall connecting small seams and cracks with the occassioanl blank section. Its a classic line with thought provoking placements, and even clipping some of the fixed pieces very challenging. Aunt Bee would be proud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 sure it's a beautiful sunny day and you could be owning on the s side right now, but before the bitchfest begins, thought i might remind The Brethern, there is a side that didn't close, one that still even holds some adventure up high if'n you're willing to scare the holy shit out of yourself  Damn Ivan. Looks like you initiated the bitchfest. Sadly, the only way to make it stop is to quit responding online. Just stop. This shouldn't be online, but an in person thing. Delete the topo off this site and let people ask you for it. You already offered to climb it with Pink, either you go out together and do it or this goes for 20 more fucking stupid assed pages. (I'm excluding Timetravelers posts from that statement)  fuck all you whiners and bitchers. Get off the internet and go climb the thing.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.