Ouray Beta?

[Jens]

My wife and I just bought plane tickets to climb at Ouray for 8 days. After making Canadian Rockies trips most of life, I am finally hitting the ice park.

Any beta for me?

-70 meter single rope?

-long slings?

-pitons?

-temps?

-Food to avoid?

-Food to try?

-Watering holes?

-Ski areas for a one day diversion?

-Partner hook ups if my wife wants to shop?

-Do I need to buy chains for the crappy little rental car I'll get?

-Are large groups territorial?

-Are guides that I can climb much harder than territorial?

-Which hot springs do you like?...including hotels (we are staying at the box canyon hot springs and lodge).

-Should I bring my fruit boots?

-Belay from above or below?

-Guidebooks necessary?

-Any other beta?

 

[mhux]

Just went there for my first time with my buddy two weeks ago, if you're gonna toprope bring a 70m, (some of the routes necessitate lowering then belaying from the top because theyre >35m). Also, bring a lot of cord to extend anchors (potentially even another rope!), as some of the trees are pretty far away...I think most/all of the mixed stuff is bolted; as for food, try the Buen Tiempo..routes up to M9 so fruit boots are your call, belaying from above or below is also your call, but (with enough cord) you'll be able to find anchors at the top of anything (I think..), and at the local shop you can pick up a very useful (albeit rather expensive) guidebook. Hope that helps, also check the mtnproject page, theres some more useful beta there! You'll love it...

[genepires]

 

-70 meter single rope? yes but 60m is fine too.

-long slings? yes

-pitons? doubt it but bring small rock rack

-temps? usually very pleasant, in upper 20's

 

-Partner hook ups if my wife wants to shop? Look for AAI guides who frequently work there

-Do I need to buy chains for the crappy little rental car I'll get? doubt it as the roads are plowed very good. Unless you want to go to silverton

-Are large groups territorial? most people have been friendly and there is always open ice to climb. (non festival days)

-Are guides that I can climb much harder than territorial? don't understand question

-Which hot springs do you like? there is a large public pool. cheap and some hotels give coupons to customers.

 

-Belay from above or below? both

-Guidebooks necessary? not really for the park. just walk around and find what looks good. The best stuff is easily walked from car. Might need book for mixed climbs.

-Any other beta? 8 days is a lot of time for the park. You will prolly feel the urge to get out of the park. seems like 4 days is the max but I never got into the mixed game. Silverton is really nice, not hardcore but scenic and natural ice. (which is a term that is hard to explain) Then there are the other usual suspects but you may need a more snow worthy car.

 

Sweet. have a good time. prepare to hook more than swing.

 

[goatboy]

To not sound like a tourist, say "Yur-ay" not "OOh-ray"

 

The Orvis Hot Springs in nearby Ridgway is worth a trip.

 

Often, there are new restaurants in town to try. Look at both Ridgway and Ouray.

 

There are some nice waterfalls in the area to climb if you get tired of the ice park.

 

Last time I was there, you could buy a park pass (voluntary, but supports the ice park and gets you discounts at local pubs/restaurants/gear stores)

 

Screamers are nice for the ice. Never seen any need for pitons there, but I don't climb hard mixed stuff.

 

Gene is right - you'll hook a lot more than you'll swing due to the high traffic!

 

Have fun! Where are you staying?