more retro bolts, really?

[johnkelley]

Went up to Piviot Point area today to have a look.

 

Center Fire now has 3 retrobolts. All for Naught and Naught for All have one retrobolt each. The Butt Crack has two retrobolts. The unnamed 5.8 climb to the right of the crack has had two retrobolts added to it.

 

All of these have been added this fall/winter.

 

 

[johnkelley]

The Chugach State Park is now taking comments on it's new policy that bans the placement and use of any perminent anchor in the CSP. I'm guessing they aren't happy about the hundred or so new bolts. So thanks alot to the bolters for their "community service" and another big thanks to the ASCA for supplying most of the bolts.

[wfinley]

I'll be the first to admit that I'm not happy about the retro bolts. If a line has been TR only or a highball problem for years then it shouldn't be bolted for the masses. This year I've seen retro bolts on Center Fire and on Upper Pivot Point plus the old ones that have been on Sunshine Ridge for a few years now. I recently went to Upper Crack in the Woods and noticed the bolts are gone - which is a good thing. Thanks for pulling them cleanly (I could barely find the holes).

 

However... hundreds of retro bolts? Please fill me in. I've been climbing on the highway more than usual this summer and I haven't been seeing these hundreds of retro bolts. Or do you call replacing old 1/2" bolts retro bolting? Having ripped off more chossy holds than usual this rainy summer I've not been too keen on getting on anything with rusty old button heads. Call me a wimp.

 

Do you really think that the Chugach State Park Planners want to ban fixed anchors because they've had a sudden environmental change of heart? Please... this is the same plan that proposes a new road through the park up to Glen Alps. The same plan that removes all of Crow Pass from the wilderness zone. The same plan that allows tactical military training in the wilderness zone, commercial power development in the non-wilderness portions of the park and new huts in Peters Creek and Bird Creek.

 

When compared to the issues I listed above the issue of fixed anchors is ridiculously trivial. If the park wants to implement a fixed anchor ban because of a handful of new bolts (which I guarantee you neither Monica Alvarez nor Tom Harrison have ever seen) then chances are they're only doing so because of a very vocal local who can't seem to talk about this in a rational manner.

 

[billcoe]

The Chugach State Park is now taking comments on it's new policy that bans the placement and use of any perminent anchor in the CSP. I'm guessing they aren't happy about the hundred or so new bolts. So thanks alot to the bolters for their "community service" and another big thanks to the ASCA for supplying most of the bolts.

 

And thanks to you for so widely publicizing and bitching about this that you've finally got your parents attention and will get the rules you seem to so badly want. Like wfinley says above, I give you more of the credit for this than the bolter who was out of line to begin with. What Gene says goes for me. It's just easier to bitch online and get the authorities attention so that they do something rather than to actually do something yourself I guess. You squeezed extra loud several places and got attention. Hope you feel special now and all the climbers can thank you for the new bullshit they have to deal with. Because of you.

 

Where did anyone say adding the bolts is OK? My point was either shit or get of the pot. Go get rid of the bolts instead of whining here about it. F'in AK pansies. Maybe I should buy raindawg a plane ticket and he can fix your "problem" for you.