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DPS

Snoqualmie Pass

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Has anybody been up to the pass recently? Any idea on how Chair Peak or NE Slab of the Tooth are forming up?

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On tuesday I snowshoed up to the tooth to check it out. I aproached from the side and ended up directly across the bowl at 5000. I had binos and there looked to be no ice at all on the ne slab.

The finger of snow that reaches up to the slab wasn't reaching very high. Or at least it looked that way to me. (first time I've been up there in the winter)

Yesterday I went back to tr some ice on the left side of the valley about 30 or so minutes up from the parking lot. While we were there some climbers were coming down. They said there was absolutely nothing on the ne slab and did the south face instead.

Don't no anything about chair peak, but an assumption would be similar conditions.

Hope this helps,

jja.

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And they even have snow on some of the volcanos.

Btw, the ice I mentioned was really really wet. As in should of brought the soap and shampoo wet.

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Ya that's still there at the gym. Nothing much changes there I guess. I put some hangers up for leading last year and that's probably the only change since you were there.

You know Judson a couple of years ago had the money (from sf) and the contract all lined up to put a huge wall in one of the basketball courts for the special forces (and everyone else) to use but it fell through when a new sf co wanted exclusive use of it. So instead the sf built a freestanding outdoor wall in their compound that no one else can use and they hardly use because of all the rain.

that's the army for you,

john.

 

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I climbed the south face of the Tooth on Tuesday. There was little snow and a lot of *dry* rock. I was wishing for rock shoes instead of rando boots and it was so warm (45) that I was able to comfortably climb and belay the whole thing bare-handed. I left crampons and tools at the base. There was no ice on that northeast route that everyone is jonesing about. We skied from the little notch in 18" of heavy, wet snow that was remarkably stable. It got lighter as we got lower, due to the inversion.

-CC

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Mike,

you know Paul Rosser? How about Ed Maginn--he lived with Rosser for a while and is still out there kickin' around--albeit he just got out of the Army. Just thought it would be interesting to hear about people you know.

Dave

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Hello CC. Jay and I were up on the Tooth Tuesday as well. (remember?)I must have blew my karma......we got my floss stuck when pulling our rope!!! Followed your tele tracks out in the dark....thanks.

Barry

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Mike,

I figured it was an off chance you would know Ed. But heh, here is the positive side--I think you must live in the same Townhome development as my climbing partner. He is a former 2nd Batt/LRSD guy who has had the climbing bug for 8+ years. Right now he is on the Seattle Police Department and climbs any chance he can get. We climbed at Lilloet on the 28th and at Alpental on the 26th. Email him if your looking for a partner on an odd day--he works 4 days on and 2 off. His email is SeanHalling@hotmail.com. I am back at beautiful Fort Drum so enjoy the Cascades for me.

Dave Pleasance

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Barry-

I think you were finishing your first rap as we skied out of the notch. I wasn't envying you your walk out in the dark. I converted from snowshoeing to randonee (I won't hold the tele comment against you) a few years ago. We were 50 minutes from the notch to the lot.

This is the first time I haven't had a snagged rope on that route. Sorry to hear about yours. Where did it hang up?

-CC

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Hey--interesting to see how many army fellows are here. I was in the army too--from 84-88. Two years at Benning and two years in Germany. Mountain Ranger school gave me the climbing bug.

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Rob,

yes, it was at Dahlonega where I got my first climbing instruction--and an Army buddy who got me out climbing on my free time. Small world, isn't it?

Dave

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CC-

I ski myself (AT and some tele, I could have swore I saw you cranking a tele turn) My partner Jay doesn't so you know how that goes. We snagged on the last rap, luckily plenty of rope left to belay Jay up and clear it. One problem with the ice floss is it just SAILS when thrown in any kind of wind. Jays going to learn how to ski soon, we're doing Dragontail and I'm NOT slugging up the road in snowshoes!!

Later, Barry

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