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Posted

Trip: Colorado/Moab - The Diamond/Castleton

 

Date: 10/13/2010

 

Trip Report:

Finished up the season with six 50 classics! 11 overall:)

What A joy these classics are. Crowded? i'll say not, only one climb out of 6 had another party on it!

 

Knowing that being strong is a temporary state, we opted to try for diamond on long's, and ended up sleeping a pitch below the summit on a tiny little ledge. We were slowed having taken the 4 pitch 10c variation from mills glacier-broadway before the actual climb instead of a third class scramble that would have avoided the benighting. Also, climbing in PNW did not prepare me for full length pitches on almost every pitch. Certainly, a beautiful view looking over Boulder Co at night, but unprepared we nearly froze at 14000 feet for 10 hours without bivy gear. We finished the last pitch the next day, alive, having completed an OCTOBER/FALL ascent of the diamond. The next few days it snowed and diamond season officially ended. A veritable dream come true. Never would I have thought... we on-sighted all the pitches even the crux pitch at 14000' ft! This and half dome may be the most beautiful lines of my life.

 

 

Diamond

 

Castleton

 

then took a few days off and finished with kor-ingals on castleton - the route that changed my view from hate to love of wide cracks. It made me though, appreciate PNW granite that much more. :)

 

A rainy season of 'getting weak' ensues,

we'll see what next season has in store ;)

be blessed!

Caleb.

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Posted
i love it :) 5 post 4 TR's.

 

VERY COOL :brew:

 

7132 posts and 1 TR :lmao: :lmao:

 

elementary my dear watson.... you're a sharp one, your nose for irony is uncanny. :lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao:

 

 

no seriously, i'm just a scrambler, i've been up a feet hundred feet a few times and it terrified me. i just like to hang out in the woods and at the base of rocks and climbers are cool enough people to chill with. maybe someday you can take me out and show me some tricks :)

 

NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! icon_ThingyAmimation.gif

 

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

We climbed the Diamond by rapping down from Chasm View then traversing Broadway. It's a little committing, but preferable to the bottom up approach.

 

I know it's after you're ascent, but something to think about if you go there again.

 

Nice topo ;)

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