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Posted

I'm thinking of building something at home for climbing. Most plans for home climbing walls I've been able to find have elaborate frames attached to the wall of whatever (garage/basement/etc) OR they are free standing. I don't have a ton of room to do either of those, but I have a wall in one of the rooms of my home that is already at a good incline for bouldering. I'm wondering how safe it would be to attach my wall (plywood panels) to my existing wall studs using a minimal frame? Those of you with construction/home building experience, any thoughts?

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Posted (edited)

I have over 30 years experience building homes and have built one commercial climbing gym, so I feel qualified to offer a reasonable answer.

 

Newer homes are typically built with 2" x 6" studs on 16" centers (for energy efficency,not structural integerity - the change in building codes came about during the Carter administration when heating costs were extremely high - but I digress). This construction is plenty strong for building into an overhaning climbing wall. 2"x 4" may flex too much on overhanging walls. Make sure you use at least 5/8" plywood or better yet 3/4" plywood. I've seen people rip holds right off the wall on thinner plywood pannels. Also screw the panels to the studs and use washers between the screw head and the plywood. Questions? Feel free to email me at bighurtbob@hotmail.com

Edited by danielpatricksmith
Posted

Just started on my own bouldering wall for our garage...finally underway.

 

5015359966_96cefd1532_z.jpg

 

Good info on putting washers on the screws attaching the plywood to the studs, hadn't thought about that. Definitely going with the 3/4 inch plywood. Heavy, though.

Posted

5015359966_96cefd1532_z.jpg

 

Is that your electrical panel on the wall there? I'm sure you've planned for post-completion access...

 

National Electrical Code (NEC) 110.26 Spaces around electrical equipment

 

(2) Width of Working Space: The width of the working space in front of the electrical equipment shall be the width of the equipment or (30 in.), which ever is greater. In all cases, the work space shall permit at least 90 degrees opening of equipment doors or hinged panels.

 

(B) Clear spaces: Working space required by the section shall not be used for storage

 

Furthermore, most authorities having jurisdiction will require a space of 3' deep and panel width plus 18" to one side for access to an electrical panel.

 

The location of your wall is poorly considered

Posted

 

The location of your wall is poorly considered

 

Well, sure if you consider niggling little details like electrical codes but the wall looks pretty kick ass.

Posted

I was just asking the question, because it appeared to me to be a potential issue.

I ponder upon these sorts of things, to the point of keeping me awake at night at times... :sleep:

Posted (edited)
I was just asking the question, because it appeared to me to be a potential issue.

I ponder upon these sorts of things, to the point of keeping me awake at night at times... :sleep:

 

It is actually an excellent question, one that Chad should consider if he plans on selling the house in the future. As it is currently configured it may not meet code but might allow a person to slip behind the climbing wall to reset a tripped breaker. My previous response was meant to be ironic which does not seem to transmit well on the interwebs. The wall itself looks to be very well constructed.

Edited by danielpatricksmith
Posted
I was just asking the question, because it appeared to me to be a potential issue.

I ponder upon these sorts of things, to the point of keeping me awake at night at times... :sleep:

 

It is actually an excellent question, one that Chad should consider if he plans on selling the house in the future. As it is currently configured it may not meet code but might allow a person to slip behind the climbing wall to reset a tripped breaker.

 

Hey Dan, maybe you should tell that to this guy, who seems to be indicating that my 8,000+ plus posts are all useless drivel. :)

Posted

Well, he can't be all bad, can he? He does make reference to the North Face of Uxbridge Road ascent. Anybody who's a Monthy Python watcher can't be that much of a laddy-buggerer, can they?

 

I mean, look at my autosig, ferchrissakes! :laf:

Posted

Classic CC.COM!!!

 

Yes, the whole thing will be open ended from the near end in the picture, fully accessible.

 

GREAT, now the inspectors will be showing up at any time ;)

Posted
Yes, the whole thing will be open ended from the near end in the picture, fully accessible.

 

It is not "fully accessable", to get to the breaker you have to navigate a narrow cave. That may be fine for re-setting trip circuit breakers, but anyone working on a hot box is in a dangerous situation.

 

You could easily add doublers to either side stud, put in a hearder, and make a large removable panel which would also give you safe access as per 110.26

Posted

Hey, that's gettin' somewhere. If you could fill in a noob as far as the idea you're talking about, I wouldn't be against putting in an access for walking right up to it. Now you've opened a can of worms :lmao:

Posted
Did you get a Building Permit for this thing...??

 

Of course I did, because everyone gets building permits for everything they build in their homes. So yes, of course.

 

Don't lie, you did not get a permit, and it would be impossible to get one without a stamped set of plans.

 

Climbing walls are considered "cabinets", and permits are not required to add cabinets, except in cases of egreess in a multi-family or commercial setting

Posted (edited)
Hey, that's gettin' somewhere. If you could fill in a noob as far as the idea you're talking about, I wouldn't be against putting in an access for walking right up to it. Now you've opened a can of worms :lmao:

 

What you would do is remove the one or two studs directly in front of the panel and then double up the studs adjacent to the new opening. Then put in doubled horizontal studs about 6' up the wall bridging the doubled vertical studs to add structural integrity. Cut the plywood panel to span the opening (should be 48" wide assuming you have framed on 16" centers and removed only the two studs directly in front of the panel. The panel will be easily removable if you use screws (with washers) to attach it to the studs.

Edited by danielpatricksmith
Posted
Classic CC.COM!!!

 

Yes, the whole thing will be open ended from the near end in the picture, fully accessible.

 

GREAT, now the inspectors will be showing up at any time ;)

 

Just don't post your home address or these same monkeys will show up begging for a lap or two after they've called the inspectors on you.

Posted

If you are using t-nuts , it may behoove you to fir out the wall first with 3/4 inch plywood strips over the line of studs. Otherwise you will dig into the sheetrock

Posted
Did you get a Building Permit for this thing...??

 

Of course I did, because everyone gets building permits for everything they build in their homes. So yes, of course.

 

Don't lie, you did not get a permit, and it would be impossible to get one without a stamped set of plans.

 

Climbing walls are considered "cabinets", and permits are not required to add cabinets, except in cases of egreess in a multi-family or commercial setting

 

Ok, I guess you didn't pick up on the sarcasm on that one. So much for "lying"... :rolleyes:

 

Dan, thanks for that. I think I can picture it; I'm, again, a noob, so I'll bounce it off the guy who has been helping me with other house projects over the summer. Should know what you're talking about.

 

Colin, you're due for some laps whenever it's finished, man. :brew:

Posted

Yana, just a quick "hello" to say that I'm sorry my wall project hijacked your thread. Kick me out of here anytime (or you've probably earned a trip to my garage after its finished for your tolerance).

 

Colin, well, most likely before, but with the precip up high and the night time temps in the 20s, who knows...it could beat me (and I'm ok with that obviously).

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