Stone Rodeo

[JosephH]

I would have liked to have spent the entire afternoon with the saga of the beat rope, but managed to tear myself away and go check out Stone Rodeo. Turns out the the bolts on it suck and I didn't much care for even being on second one let alone the prospect of falling on it.

 

 

So here is the route with the bolts marked in red (with one of the old ones in yellow).

 

 

The route as is has been bolted and retrobolted, and I'm not going to be adding any bolts to it, but if, like Kevin you have an interest or opinion on the where these bolts should be located that's different than where they are speak up or they're going to be rebolted in place.

[ivan]

goddammit knew i shoulda been out there today - did it rain at all?

[ivan]

the topo shows a top anchor - how's that?

[JosephH]

Dumping, but I made it down the trail and under SR during a lull. Interesting aiding up it with water pouring out of the crack.

[JosephH]

I believe I replaced it already.

[denalidave]

goddammit knew i shoulda been out there today - did it rain at all?

Yep.

 

[pink]

didn't u put this rote p joeseph?

[stevetimetravlr]

After that last bolt it looks thin, whats the gear, stoppers or microcams, hope and a prayer?

[pink]

so what's the history on this route?

[kevbone]

so what's the history on this route?

 

What loaded question to ask!

 

Good times.

[pink]

goddammit knew i shoulda been out there today - did it rain at all?

 

u should be yosemite with plaidman right now

[ivan]

goddammit knew i shoulda been out there today - did it rain at all?

 

u should be yosemite with plaidman right now

if i've learned any lesson down there its go w/ someone STRONGER then yerself

[JosephH]

I think pink is volunteering.

[ivan]

I think pink is volunteering.

dunno - has he climbed el cap?

[JosephH]

Yep, lots of times.

[billcoe]

Can some one explain why that bolt on the 2nd pitch of Young Warriors is so far to the left? You have to reach way over to clip it and it makes the rope run in almost a 90 degree arc unless you sling it and even them creates a ton of rope drag. Why isn't it placed above you where you can clip it above you and make the rope run allot smoother?

Would Jim be into moving that bolt I wonder?

When those routes were done out there, there was a lot of huge blocks overlaying good rock. When that was looked at, it was suspected that the entire rock you climb on, where the bolt should logically be -ie, where you and everyone is thinking is a better spot now, might have been unattached.

 

Putting a bolt into something like that can be a disaster when you fall onto it and it turns into a pants pissing exercise much like Mr Toads Wild ride with the extreme un-happy 1000 lb block Hammer-Time finish. The left side had clearly already had the chunk fall off of it, thus, that was the place to put a bolt if a bolt was to be put. Years later, once some of the moss and choss is gone, the lines (cracks) - or lack up lines around a potential placement are much easier to determine.

 

I haven't clipped that bolt the last many times I've done it. The route flows better, and the 2nd has less of a swing if they should boff it. As far as Jim moving the bolt, you can pitch it to him. Probably be a good idea AS LONG AS YOU ARE 100% CERTAIN THAT WHERE YOU ARE GOING TO PUT IT WILL NOT PULL OFF IN A VOLKSWAGEN SIZED BLOCK WITH A CLIMBER ATTACHED TO THE BOLT ATTACHED TO THE VOLKSWAGEN IF SOMEONE WAS TO LEADER FALL THERE. 100%.

 

Have you examined it minutely and closely enough to determine if that is the case Steve?

 

PS, haha! got to say Volkswagen twice! Woot!

[JosephH]

Bill, I think maybe you meant that for the bacon thread...

[JosephH]

After that last bolt it looks thin, whats the gear, stoppers or microcams, hope and a prayer?

There are two pins which is what I was going up to look at but it given I started up it at 4:30 in the rain, I didn't make it up to them before I had to split. Will probably hit it again Wed.

[billcoe]

Bill, I think maybe you meant that for the bacon thread...

That thread was turning so far south I was hoping it would die:-) This is starting out much better, hope it contributes.

 

ps, on the rope around the trees thing. I only heard it 2nd hand, I'm not sure if that was Wes's new leaver rope (hope not) but I will volunteer my time to show anyone who doesn't know how to do this: how to tie their own climbing rope around a tree in 5 seconds or less. So lets say between 2 trees would be 10 seconds plus the time it would take to walk the distance.

 

I'm all about caring for you guys.

[JosephH]

In that case you are correct, the rock in the entire rock bands at and above the YW bolt in question suck, and while that bolt is in the best rock on that small slab, that ain't saying a whole lot as the whole slab is relatively hollow. The rock to the right isn't all that better and nothing above the mantle is any good. If you don't like that bolt and want pro then figure out the placement just above the bolt and get the bomb #10 HB offset on the left side once you're up.

[JosephH]

Kevin, so where is it you think those bolts should be?

[kevbone]

Kevin, so where is it you think those bolts should be?

 

Am I supposed to answer that from a picture with circles drawn on them?

[JosephH]

Well, for someone that expressed a strong opinion that they were in the wrong place I assumed you knew exactly where the right place should be, so yes. On what other basis do you conclude those guys got it wrong with the existing locations?

[ivan]

joe kev

kev joe

 

anyone tired yet?

 

[JosephH]

Just trying to figure out exactly what his complaint on the bolt locations is, but maybe it's just how many there are that's the problem.