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Posted (edited)

I know this has been covered before, but I could not find anything in a search. I am wondering about the details on the rappels from the top of dragontail down to the flats above asgard. Trying to avoid bringing crampons or axes on backbone. Thanks for any info

Spencer

Edited by skibum1087
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Posted

there are 4 or 5 single rope rappels that start off a slung boulder just NE of the summit of DTail. it's close to the top of the third couloir. it avoids the crampons/axe dilemma by putting you all the way on the flats of the glacier

Posted

it's described in Kearney's book. Classics of North Cascades, or something like that.

tried to find it once, but failed in a whiteout and rapped scary couliour in desperation to get the fuck out.

 

Posted

the snow should be soft enough that crampons would not be needed for the descent. Just bring a axe and call it good for the walk off. far far safer than some rarely done rappels.

 

Now you will prolly need the axe for the getting to the start of the route. It will be frozen hard and sketching across that without a means to self arrest....nothing needs to be said. If you can't climb with an extra pound of metal on the back, then maybe you should not be on backbone.

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